Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

[db10]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Is it necessary to replace all the caps, or can I just replace the bulging ones?

P12386-ND CAP 330UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL
P12391-ND CAP 820UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL

Also anyone got a recommendation on what other equipment I need like a soldering iron, and solder? Can I make do with something cheap from radioshack?

[EGuevarae]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Is it necessary to replace all the caps, or can I just replace the bulging ones?

P12386-ND CAP 330UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL
P12391-ND CAP 820UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL

Also anyone got a recommendation on what other equipment I need like a soldering iron, and solder? Can I make do with something cheap from radioshack?

Normally, all the caps are of the same lot/series/age, so it is recommended to replace them all (except the big one) to avoid reopening the unit in a near future.

[db10]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Normally, all the caps are of the same lot/series/age, so it is recommended to replace them all (except the big one) to avoid reopening the unit in a near future.

Thanks so I am going to add these to my order as well:
P10321-ND
P12390-ND
Along with:
P12386-ND CAP 330UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL
P12391-ND CAP 820UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Is it necessary to replace all the caps, or can I just replace the bulging ones?

P12386-ND CAP 330UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL
P12391-ND CAP 820UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL

Can I make do with something cheap from radioshack?

Most here will recommend all except the biggest one because caps don't have to bulge in order to be bad. The Panasonic FM that you have chosen are good low ESR caps.

If this is the only monitor you will fix, then you might want to check with friends/family to see if you can borrow their soldering equipment. I personally buy the cheapest ebay soldering iron (40 watts) and don't care if it doesn't last 20 years. I have repaired about 15 monitors with the $4 iron.

[db10]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Most here will recommend all except the biggest one because caps don't have to bulge in order to be bad. The Panasonic FM that you have chosen are good low ESR caps.

If this is the only monitor you will fix, then you might want to check with friends/family to see if you can borrow their soldering equipment. I personally buy the cheapest ebay soldering iron (40 watts) and don't care if it doesn't last 20 years. I have repaired about 15 monitors with the $4 iron.

Thanks very helpful forum members . I was all set to order from digikey but the panasonic 680UF cap item is out of stock, another one I see posted is also out 565-1551-ND. Anyone got recommendations on an alternative, can I mix different manufacturers. Like 493-1554-ND or 493-1829-ND?

1 P12386-ND CAP 330UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL 0 0.51000 $0.51
2 P12391-ND CAP 820UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL 0 0.75000 $1.50
1 P10321-ND CAP 47UF 50V ELECT FC RADIAL 0 0.34000 $0.34

2 P12390-ND CAP 680UF 25V ELECT FM RADIA
This is back order

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Is it necessary to replace all the caps, or can I just replace the bulging ones?

P12386-ND CAP 330UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL
P12391-ND CAP 820UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL

It depends on how much you enjoy having your monitor fail. The smart people replace all of the electrolytic caps except the 450 volt one (unless it shows signs of failure). Since you mention Radio Shack, you are probably in the US. If you order from Digikey and specify USPS First Class Mail shipping, a complete set of replacement caps and shipping will cost less than $10.00. In my opinion, it's worth it to have one less thing to worry about.

Also anyone got a recommendation on what other equipment I need like a soldering iron, and solder? Can I make do with something cheap from radioshack?

It depends on your future plans. Radio Shack 64-2802 is adequate for a 1-shot deal. I would buy something better if your plans including this even as a hobby. Also find a dissecting pick, or make one yourself from a small dowel and a needle. After removing the old cap reheat the solder and run the pick through the hole to clear it. Of course, a pair of wire cutters will come in handy.

PlainBill

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Anyone got recommendations on an alternative, can I mix different manufacturers. Like 493-1554-ND or 493-1829-ND?

Yes, you can mix manufacturers.

Panasonic FC (P10277-ND) is another potential choice if you want to stay all Panasonic.

This list shows the highest to lowest ESR

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280

So you want Nichicon HE vs PW. That is, you want the low ESR cap for a SMPS application.

[smed1065]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Thanks for all the help!

Digi-Key is showing all the caps in stock now.

[GR3Y5H3ART]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

well i've replaced the Big three listed via Digi Key and still have the same problem

Display will turn on for a second, and then turn off within 5 mins.


i've read through most of the posts and if someone can help me with the part numbers to replace the other caps

thanks very much

[typhonus]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

First, a big thanks to PlainBill for all his help. Reading through this thread has expanded my knowledge base and I am grateful.
Secondly, found the reference material for the M220z1-L01 monitor for the 22 inch Samsung 225BW while searching for CCFL's. Though it would be useful here.

Also, can anyone recommend where to buy, and the part numbers for, the CCFL's? I am in southern California.


Thanks again.

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

First, a big thanks to PlainBill for all his help. Reading through this thread has expanded my knowledge base and I am grateful.
Secondly, found the reference material for the M220z1-L01 monitor for the 22 inch Samsung 225BW while searching for CCFL's. Though it would be useful here.

Also, can anyone recommend where to buy, and the part numbers for, the CCFL's? I am in southern California.


Thanks again.

Members have had good experiences with ccflwarehouse.com. They provide tech support if you can't find what you're looking for.

[OneOfEm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I REALLY wish I'd found this forum a week ago!

I was given a "dead" Samsung 225BW about a month ago, so I decided to try to repair it. I replaced a set of blown caps on a graphics card successfully about a year and a half ago, so I just dove in.

Five CapXon capacitors were visibly bulging: 3 330uf 25v, and 2 820uf 25v. If I'd read this thread early enough I would have replaced the 6th as well (the one by the switch).

I used the following Digikey parts: 565-1553-ND and 493-1551-ND (again, I did this "blind" so I might be using sub-par parts?).

After replacing these caps, the power won't come on at all. There's no light on the power button and no indication of power at all.

I tested the green fuse and it's ok.

I know I should replace the small cap, but is there anything else I can do in the meantime to see if there is another problem? Am I going to need to replace any of the new caps that I might have incorrectly used?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I tested the green fuse and it's ok.

I know I should replace the small cap, but is there anything else I can do in the meantime to see if there is another problem?

1) What about fuse F101? A good fuse should measure under 1.0ohms.

2) The little cap plays an important part of the SMPS startup process.

3) Do you measure any secondary voltages on the connector to the logic board?

4) Your other questions will be answered after your posted results.

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

I REALLY wish I'd found this forum a week ago!

I was given a "dead" Samsung 225BW about a month ago, so I decided to try to repair it. I replaced a set of blown caps on a graphics card successfully about a year and a half ago, so I just dove in.

Five CapXon capacitors were visibly bulging: 3 330uf 25v, and 2 820uf 25v. If I'd read this thread early enough I would have replaced the 6th as well (the one by the switch).

I used the following Digikey parts: 565-1553-ND and 493-1551-ND (again, I did this "blind" so I might be using sub-par parts?).

After replacing these caps, the power won't come on at all. There's no light on the power button and no indication of power at all.

I tested the green fuse and it's ok.

I know I should replace the small cap, but is there anything else I can do in the meantime to see if there is another problem? Am I going to need to replace any of the new caps that I might have incorrectly used?

The "KY" and "HE" series caps you used are low-esr and should be fine. The one cap you should have also replaced is the startup cap circled in red. With power off and monitor unplugged thing test the continuity of the main fuse circled in yellow. If it checks good, then measure the voltage across the main 450V cap. Be careful as you're dealing with high voltage!

[OneOfEm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

The "KY" and "HE" series caps you used are low-esr and should be fine. The one cap you should have also replaced is the startup cap circled in red. With power off and monitor unplugged thing test the continuity of the main fuse circled in yellow. If it checks good, then measure the voltage across the main 450V cap. Be careful as you're dealing with high voltage!

The main fuse tests good.

The voltage across the 450V cap is 220.

[OneOfEm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

1)
3) Do you measure any secondary voltages on the connector to the logic board?

I don't have any idea where to start measuring this.

(The fuse tests good.)


You guys can't imagine how great it is to get this advice!

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

The main fuse tests good.

The voltage across the 450V cap is 220.

Assuming you're in the USA, the voltage across the 450V cap should be around 160-165VDC. Are you measuring it correctly? Neg probe on "-" lead and Pos probe on "+" lead.

The secondary voltage retiredcaps is talking about is the output of the device mounted on the heatsink on the left side of your photo. Use a mounting screw for your neg probe and place your pos probe on the middle leg of the device to measure voltage output.

[OneOfEm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Assuming you're in the USA, the voltage across the 450V cap should be around 160-165VDC. Are you measuring it correctly? Neg probe on "-" lead and Pos probe on "+" lead.

Yeah, thats how I tested...

The secondary voltage retiredcaps is talking about is the output of the device mounted on the heatsink on the left side of your photo. Use a mounting screw for your neg probe and place your pos probe on the middle leg of the device to measure voltage output.

This fluctuates from 5mV to 70mV or so, randomly.

[OneOfEm]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

***Solved***

Sometimes you have to start at the beginning...

A tiny wire in the four-wire connection between the button panel and the controller had a short at the connector.

It looked as if the bezel had been opened before, so whoever did it probably pulled the wire to disconnect it, causing a faulty connection. When I removed the connection I caused the short to open.

Those things are TINY!

Thank you so much for the quick replies!!!

[LHC]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW

Hello people, I wonder if anyone can help. I've replaced the caps and it still isn't working. I'm fairly sure the problem is the integrated circuit, but I can't work out what part I need to replace it with. I can't make out any of the text on it.

Does anybody have an idea what I need?

Sorry this is so vague - I'd be happy to try provide more detail if you could tell me what you need.

Cheers