Got the transformer off and the readings are the same as before.
That is definitely a problem. Usually the secondaries will match to within 1% or so. A 10% difference is a sure sign of problems. You have a 4:1 ratio.
Replace it.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Thanks PlainBill. I will get the new one on order asap.
If you don't mind a follow up question regarding the transformer I would like to ask if one secondary is bad can it keep the other side from working as well?
When I got these readings I kind of thought that the lights powered by the good side of the transformer should work. Granted it was an uneducated assumption, just curious.
Thanks PlainBill. I will get the new one on order asap.
If you don't mind a follow up question regarding the transformer I would like to ask if one secondary is bad can it keep the other side from working as well?
When I got these readings I kind of thought that the lights powered by the good side of the transformer should work. Granted it was an uneducated assumption, just curious.
It depends on the design of the transformer and the inverter itself, but usually, a failure affecting one tube will shut down the entire backlight system.
A brief summary of what happens when an LCD monitor is turned on. The logic card sends a signal to the inverter controller to turn on the CCFLs. The inverter controller turns on the CCFLs at full power. A fraction of a second later it begins checking the voltage across and current through each CCFL. If any are out of spec, the inverter controller shuts everything down - two seconds to black.
NOW, some designs do not check both current and voltage. Or they may do only a partial check - shut down only if the voltage across a CCFL gets too high. And some (those inverters used in case lights don't check anything!
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
From my very limited knowledge, 3 main things that go bad. 1 a CCFL tube, you'll see black ends. 2 a bad cap, they're usually bulging. 3 a bad Scotty diode, these guys turn gray or start cracking.
I want t say that My Acer AL2223W had the same problem and it WAS he transformer ( SPI 8TC00332 ) So I just had a old used ACER monitor with scratched screen and it that had a transformer ( SPI 8TC00245 ) inside. So i used that one to replace my transformer that had a 2.5K ohms on one side and a 1K ohms on the the side side.. Both sides should have no more ten 1K ohms reading on both secondary windings.
If you need a new transformer or SUB replacement. you can also use ( MS220T )
Anyway as long as the transformer has the same readings it should work proper. I just did this fix today.. it was perfect...
Oh one more thing.. Remember to have a signal going to the monitor from your computer.... This way the lights of the screen will stay on... otherwise it will time out.
I have Fujitsu siemens monitor with same guts like this acer
and problem is also 2 seconds to death.
when monitor is turned on there will be very good picture from computer for 2 secs and then it goes blank. I have replaced all caps and i did measure the transformer and fuses too. could someone give me a hint what to look next?
and i did use vga and dvi input and there are no diffrence between them.
I have Fujitsu siemens monitor with same guts like this acer
and problem is also 2 seconds to death.
when monitor is turned on there will be very good picture from computer for 2 secs and then it goes blank. I have replaced all caps and i did measure the transformer and fuses too. could someone give me a hint what to look next?
and i did use vga and dvi input and there are no diffrence between them.
Substitute known good CCFLs.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
area you saying CCFL are broken or even one of them is broken ?
what is easyest way to test these CCFL ?
should the monitor stay on if i dont connect CCFL connector's to board?
area you saying CCFL are broken or even one of them is broken ?
what is easyest way to test these CCFL ?
should the monitor stay on if i dont connect CCFL connector's to board?
First, let's verify one thing. When you turn on the monitor you get a display for about two seconds, then the display goes blank, but the power LED stays green? That is two seconds to black, which has several possible causes.
You have replaced the caps. Did you use low ESR caps?
You have measured the transformers. Did they match to within 3%?
The next likely cause is a bad CCFL, or wiring to the CCFLs. Some monitors are notorious for bad solder joints at the CCFLS, or frayed wiring. A broken CCFL is also possible. The easiest way to test that is to substitute a set of known good CCFLs. They don't have to be installed in the LCD panel, I use a pair that are in the reflective channel.
The last possible cause is a defective component in the protection circuitry; testing that is very difficult.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
yes led stays on.
and yes i did use low ESR caps
and yes i did measure transformer's both sides and it did match. both was very near 1kOhm
i did check solder joints and now i need to change CCFL to working one's.
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