Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

[Lumberjack777]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Yes, this monitor is a perfect example of caps that go bad, but never bulge.
On both the power board, and the main board, in this model.
The only way you can really know is to have an ESR meter.

Thanks for the feedback

[qfwfq]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

These two caps:
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSC00085.jpg

It depends how bad the caps are, if they dry out so much, then heat may not help at all.
Caps in the power supply for this monitor (same as used on some of the Viewsonics Monitors) will need to be replaced also. I suggest these two caps first since they are easy to do.

I googled and found this old thread. Thanks for the info. None of my caps were bulging, but replacing those two fixed my problem. Now the monitor works again.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

You should also look into replacing the caps on the power supply board, they will fail sooner or later also.

Here is where I usually pop in and say for future readers, again, this monitor and its variations all run temperature hot. Even though the power board has quality United Chemi-con caps, they will dry out fairly fast due to the heat.

[PhrygianKat]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Thanks for the repair feedback, glad to see you got it working. You should also look into replacing the caps on the power supply board, they will fail sooner or later also.

Will do, really only needs to last me another 4 months but It looks so much better then my new LED and I got so used to the 16:10 aspect that I may just pimp this baby out. Gaming on pc at 1920x1200 seems way less clausterphobic then 1080p. The extra vertical realestate makes a huge difference on my eyes :-P

[jetadm123]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Good work. The only thing I would suggest to others seeing this thread is that the cap leads should as short as possible, since they can act like an antenna and pick up interference, which can cause picture distortion. Not good on a board that does the signal processing. In your case, there were no issues.

[budm]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Thanks for the repair feedback, glad to see you got it working. You should also look into replacing the caps on the power supply board, they will fail sooner or later also.

[PhrygianKat]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

thanks, guys...those two 100/16 seem to have been the cause of all my problems. Swap them out for the panasonic 100/50v and everything is working great. Seems that the image looks much brighter and clearer too. Definately wasn't my finest hour though, I had a hell of a time removing the old caps and clearing out the holes so I ultimately went with soldering leads and extending the new caps an inch. Seems to be working great.
Thanks again!

[PhrygianKat]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Yes, you can give them a try. Just remember that the ones in your photo are surface mount and the ones you are replacing are inserted into holes drilled through the board. You'll understand when you remove them.

FYI- you can also use Panasonic FR caps and digikey has them in stock:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...391-ND/2433525

good point, I think I'll forgo the headache and grab those 50v panasonics! Thanks!

[jetadm123]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Yes, you can give them a try. Just remember that the ones in your photo are surface mount and the ones you are replacing are inserted into holes drilled through the board. You'll understand when you remove them.

FYI- you can also use Panasonic FR caps and digikey has them in stock:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...391-ND/2433525

[PhrygianKat]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

any chance these would work? have this old ati 9800pro 256mb laying around collecting dust. Maybe these would get me by for now?

[PhrygianKat]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Thanks, I will be ordering them in the next few days then. It's been hard to get back on this site, not only was I not emailed after receiving a response, but when i tried to come back to look for a response I kept getting under construction messages...that's frustrating :-/
Appreciate the advice!

EDIT- I was just looking at digikey and couldnt find any panasonic fm or fr at 100uf while at 16v but I saw someone earlier mention that they used 100uf at 50v and it worked great? I then saw your pdf sheet on your post (budM) and saw that they do have 100uf in 50v and you noted that higher voltage is okay...so would that be the way to go? 100uf at 50v at 105c?

[budm]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

@lumberjack, those two cap on the main board by the regulator, when they are bad, the screen will have noise, or black out, but if you lower the resolution to really low, the pictures will be on OK. Very common failure symptom when those two caps are bad.
Thanks for the feedback.

@reddeth, I would recommend PANASONIC FM or FR (Low ESR type, 105c rating) series from Digikey, I use them in all my repair, just match the capacitance/voltage (higher voltage is OK) and the dimension that will fit your board.

[reddeth]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

I'm getting ready to replace the capacitors on both the power supply board and the video controller board, as has been suggested in this (and other) threads. However, I'm still pretty new to ordering capacitors, I've found the correct micro-farad and voltage rating, but I'm not sure what else "matters" when selecting capacitors. Mouser gives an option to sort for "audio grade" or "general use" (and a few other options), is one better than the other? If temperature is the problem with these monitors, would I be better off trying to get high temperature capacitors?

Sorry if this isn't the best place to ask this, I felt it was relevant since I'm experiencing the same issue and I really want to pick capacitors based on their use (this monitor).

[Lumberjack777]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

The large 450v does not go out too often, but other electrolytics caps on the power supply board should be replaced at the same time, and at least the two 100uf/16v on the main board by the regulators.

I had a Hanns-G 28" that had a strange flicker, and a sort of static on the video.
I replaced those two 100uf/16v on the main board you recommended. Fixed the problem and saved me a ton of time. Thank you!

[budm]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

The large 450v does not go out too often, but other electrolytics caps on the power supply board should be replaced at the same time, and at least the two 100uf/16v on the main board by the regulators.

[PhrygianKat]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Interesting read, I have the same monitor and am about to endeavor on the same cap changing journey. I don't mean to intrude on a thread, however, the OP mentioned something that caught my eye. You had to change the 470uf caps to run at native res without blackouts??? I don't have this whiteout issue mentioned by the OP but I do have a scenerio were the monitor won't wake from sleep and occasionally it tries and flashes an image several times before total blackout.
The monitor works fine over HDMI, if I leave it on and don't allow the computer to sleep, or if I don't turn off the display while leaving the computer on and then attempt to turn it back on again after a nap. The VGA signal sleeps and wakes just find, however it shows some sort of static interference within the image that reminds me of a 60 cycle humm on the old school stuff. I am using a $450 power conditioner for filtering though, so it can't be interference.
Do you guys think that I am dealing with the same underlying issues? Bad caps? Thanks!

[stingray072]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

This will stop the monitor from blacking out when use the native resolution, but if the power supply is really bad, then that is not going to help. If you also have bad caps in the power supply board, it can damage the circuits.

Hmmm. So what would your recommendation be? Should I replace the other caps on the main board near the voltage regulators (aside from the large filter caps), or you think that there are problems with the power supply board, and I need to replace caps there, or replace the board entirely?

[budm]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

Main board = the board where the inputs are? Yes.

And the two 100uf 16v for those regulators - Are these the two you mentioned in the post above here? http://s807.beta.photobucket.com/use...00085.jpg.html: Yes.

Large filter caps = Are those the 470uF caps? The biggest cylinder one, 450VDC rating.
If so I replaced those two first, and that's what got me to even be able to keep the monitor on: This will stop the monitor from blacking out when use the native resolution, but if the power supply is really bad, then that is not going to help. If you also have bad caps in the power supply board, it can damage the circuits.

[stingray072]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

You should replace at least those two 100uf 16v on the main board for those two regulators, and most of the cap (except the large filter cap on the primary side)

Hi Budm,

Thanks as always for your help. I'm afraid I'm a little confused by your terminology though:


Main board = the board where the inputs are?

And the two 100uf 16v for those regulators - Are these the two you mentioned in the post above here? http://s807.beta.photobucket.com/use...00085.jpg.html
If so I replaced those two first, and that's what got me to even be able to keep the monitor on . It was a great fix to at least get me through the rest of the semester.

The primary side = ? Is this the side with the caps on the same board, referring to only one part of that board, or perhaps something on the power board?

Large filter caps = Are those the 470uF caps?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm trying to make my way through the other threads but I'm not a electronics guy so its kind of a steep learning curve.

[budm]

Re: Yet Another Hanns-G HG281D Thread...

You should replace at least those two 100uf 16v on the main board for those two regulators, and most of the cap (except the large filter cap on the primary side)