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    Samsung Syncmater T240

    Had this monitor for over 2 years and it has been splendid. 2 days ago the display suddenly went pitch black. I turned it off and on and the display came back on for a few seconds but then went dark again. Shining a torch confirmed that the display was still working but for some reason the back lighting was going off. After reading online and some threads in this forum I have opened it up (what a hassle) and taken some pictures of the 2 main boards.

    I'll be honest I have no idea of electronics on a component level so please go easy on me. As you can see from the pics some capicitors have some black on the top of them (is this the leaking??) but none are bulging or look damaged. I can't see any black residue on the board. Solder points look ok as well but again I know nothing. I hope the pics are ok. I really hope this is an easy fix as I am out of warranty and need my monitor back asap. Sorry if I have broken any rules.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

    1) The photos are clear and sharp, but the composition doesn't show us the entire board. In the URL below, see misc suggestion #1 to see what composition we would like.

    2) What you describe is "2 seconds to black". See

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419

    starting with post #13 and #14.

    3) Read all the way through, but you should concentrate on the areas

    a) bad caps (the black marks on your caps is just a felt marker from the factory)
    b) bad inverter transformer
    c) bad ccfl and/or wiring

    4) You will need a multimeter to do some of these tests.

    We can guide you through, but we need to start with the photo composition first.
    --- begin sig file ---

    If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

    We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

    Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

    --- end sig file ---

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

      Hi welcome to the forum great res on your pics but for the guys here to help you better can you do 2 more with a different aspect i have attached 2 pics for an idea
      Attached Files

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

        Sorry Retired caps you beat me to it didnt mean to post over you

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

          Hi guys, thanks for the quick response. I have taken 2 more pics as you have described. Lower light conditions so my iphone 4 may fare a bit worse this time! In the meantime I'll read through that thread. Thanks in advance
          Attached Files

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

            I did one of this before with this same "2-sec-to-black" symptom. Measuring the secondaries of the TM-10160 Inverter Transformer shows that it is faulty. I replaced it & my kids are happily using it right now.

            Do you have a multimeter?. If yes, measure them. As the guys here have told me, would expect something in the 890-920 ohm range and both windings match to within 3%. It would be best to desolder it from the board & re-confirm the measurement.

            Post #18 from this thread shows a photo example of the inverter transformer

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

              ok I have something to report I think. Got myself a multimeter and took out the transformer. Following the guides I sen the multimeter to 200 (or should it be 200k?!) and the reading between s1 and s2 remains unchanged. There is no reading it just stays at 1. on the meter. Same thing for s3 and s4. However if I change the meter to 2000 ->|- (funny arrow and vertical line with horizontal line going through it) I seem to get the right readings?!?! s1 and s2=946 s3 and s4=946. So thats a tolerance of 0 so can someone tell me whats going on. And is this reading wrong since its not on 200 ohms setting?!! Help please!

              To make sure the meter is not faulty I put it on 200 ohms setting and checked the fuse on the board and I get a 0.9/1.0 reading so im guessing the meter is ok....so lost....

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

                Originally posted by lonely_warrior View Post
                ok I have something to report I think. Got myself a multimeter and took out the transformer. Following the guides I sen the multimeter to 200 (or should it be 200k?!) and the reading between s1 and s2 remains unchanged. There is no reading it just stays at 1. on the meter. Same thing for s3 and s4. However if I change the meter to 2000 ->|- (funny arrow and vertical line with horizontal line going through it) I seem to get the right readings?!?! s1 and s2=946 s3 and s4=946. So thats a tolerance of 0 so can someone tell me whats going on. And is this reading wrong since its not on 200 ohms setting?!! Help please!

                To make sure the meter is not faulty I put it on 200 ohms setting and checked the fuse on the board and I get a 0.9/1.0 reading so im guessing the meter is ok....so lost....
                Well, you have eliminated the transformer as a suspect. Now the prime suspects are the caps, the CCFLs and the wiring to them.

                What brands are the electrolytic caps?

                PlainBill
                For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Samsung Syncmater T240

                  so the reading from the "2000 ->|-" setting is ok? I thought it had to be at 200 ohms??

                  Anyway, I've had a result. I had emailed samsung and explained the situation and they've replied today saying they will replace the monitor for free despite it being out of warranty!!! I carefully put it back together although my soldering of the transformer is pretty shoddy...hopefully they don't look at it. Thanks for the helps guys and if they catch on that I've opened it then I'll be back on this thread in no time

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