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Wind wooshing noise in Presonus Eris Sub 8 sub speaker

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    Wind wooshing noise in Presonus Eris Sub 8 sub speaker

    While trying to fix a family members dead sub my Presonus Eris Sub 8 has decided to mimic gale force winds for some reason. I checked everything from trying a different wall socket, removed inputs and outputs, and checked to see if the volume has any effect (it doesn't)

    I have read that the cause is likely a leaky DC filter capacitor which would make sense, but I don't have a schematic for this power supply and don't know my way around them well enough yet to know which might be the likely culprit.

    I did also notice a few dry solder joints but would they cause the issue?




    Last edited by SMDFlea; 07-18-2023, 10:43 AM. Reason: Added model number to thread title,moved thread to Audio forum

    #2
    Re: Wind wooshing noise in Presonus Eris Sub 8 sub speaker

    It seems a lot more of the signal is getting to the speaker than is supposed to - it isn't just the frequencies selected (ie under 80hz) It is making me wonder if the issue is actually on the other board and is not the power supply at all.

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      #3
      Re: Wind wooshing noise in Presonus Eris Sub 8 sub speaker

      Actually the bridge rectifier can make this noise too if only one of the diodes is shorted. And it sound like that too, with a hiss and a distorted sound. Mandatory I’d replace all the caps close to the heat sink first and check all the diodes in the bridge rectifier.
      Last edited by CapLeaker; 07-20-2023, 01:52 PM.

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        #4
        Re: Wind wooshing noise in Presonus Eris Sub 8 sub speaker

        Ah, I did not know that. What is the long component with 8-pins that is attached to the heatsink (U9)?
        If all caps checked okay with an ESR would that be sufficient? They are all glued to the board, I assume they don't want people repairing these.
        Thank you again, it seems I am not having much luck with subwoofers at present lol

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          #5
          Re: Wind wooshing noise in Presonus Eris Sub 8 sub speaker

          that's the audio ic

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            #6
            Re: Wind wooshing noise in Presonus Eris Sub 8 sub speaker

            Thank you.
            I'm finding it very interesting how wildly different the same type of circuit can be constructed and how some of essentially the same components can look totally different. The other subwoofer has nothing that resembles that, just your typical chip type ic's.

            Might have to look in my other subwoofer and another look in my 5.1 system again now I am starting to understand the general layouts and signal paths. Steep learning curve from just changing bad caps, resistors and diodes.
            Last edited by SFB; 07-21-2023, 05:10 PM.

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              #7
              Good evening, I have had the same problem with mine. I tested the inputs as I suspected a sort at the input stage, but similar to here have arrived at the, power board, on mine one of the large surge resisters seem to be burnt out close to the heat sink, could this be the issue, or is it likely another symptom of the problem?

              Click image for larger version

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                #8
                That looks like a 100 ohm 5% (brown black brown gold) resistor. What does your multimeter say when you measure its resistance?

                It has no "burnt" appearance whatsoever though. Just a faded color code rings.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by прямо View Post
                  That looks like a 100 ohm 5% (brown black brown gold) resistor. What does your multimeter say when you measure its resistance?

                  It has no "burnt" appearance whatsoever though. Just a faded color code rings.
                  I thought the same, but it is physically twice the size of any other resister I've seen, so wasn't sure if the code was going to be standard or not. The colour has been distorted by the burn, but the one on the other side is definitely brown black brown gold... The burned one was touching the heat sink, and the capacitor right behind it, so I'll test that two to see if it's ok. I should be back in the workshop tomorrow afternoon so I'll test it then.

                  The other side of the resistor is black, and clearly burned, I was just trying to get the best shot of the Stripes to check the code, as the stripes are not visible at all on the other side.
                  Last edited by Jay Ray Tay; 01-10-2024, 11:11 AM.

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                    #10
                    They are not surge resistors, btw. Just a quick and dirty way to drop voltage by converting it to heat, hence the big physical size (probably around 2W-3W) What are the 3 legged ICs next to them? Linear voltage regulators LM78XX/LM79XX?

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                      #11
                      L7915CV, and the other side L7815CV.
                      Attached Files

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                        #12
                        Have you made any progress? This board is very easy to find faults (if any) because there aren't that many components to check.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by прямо View Post
                          Have you made any progress? This board is very easy to find faults (if any) because there aren't that many components to check.
                          Yeah the resistor I mentioned before is way out of tolerance, Reading above 130 ohm, the one on the other side is 99 ohm. And about 4 of the smaller caps close to the heat sink are not charging. I won't get chance to do the work, for a couple of weeks due to work commitments, but I'm going to try and get the parts ordered this week.

                          Thanks for the advice and support

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                            #14
                            130 ohm means the resistor is not blown, otherwise it would read open circuit or a much higher resistance. But it is indeed out of tolerance.

                            Before you order any replacement parts, I suggest you to check whether you are getting the correct voltages on those regulators.

                            7815 puts out +15V and 7915 puts out -15V.
                            Their input voltages should be at least 3V higher than the output.

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