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Thanks for that, I've taken a day off looking at it as I've reached the end of my knowledge really so at a bit of a loss. I am obviously wondering if it is a silicone issue, but do want to check the gates as saw elsewhere they can cause problems.
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I did make a few videos to show the pattern, but they are too large to upload here.
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So I tried with it together but the battery had gone dead overnight so it was trying to charge and drawing 900mA while off.
With battery disconnected once started it jumps up to almost 1A for a second before almost instantly dropping and remaining at 380mA and the fan slowly ramps up to full.
When just the board being powered on its own it floats around 700-850mA with a couple spikes up to 948mA before dropping and staying at around 320mA. The only thing on the board getting hot is the chipset.
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I'll not do that then haha
In regards to the RAM I'll leave trying to disable via the resistors for the moment.
I have a bench power supply so will test that tomorrow and report back.
2 things I did forget to mention before was on boot I am not getting CAPS lock nor NUM lock lights, but do seem to be getting a screen backlight (the screen goes black).
With not getting an external picture via HDMI though I'm guessing I can rule out a screen issue?
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I ended up getting a programmer and found BIOS files on another thread, one of which disabled onboard RAM, and no luck with them. I'm not sure if it is worth messing around with moving resistors as well?
I'm considering reflowing the chipset as it is pointing to a graphics problem if not the RAM. The fan was very clogged up so working on the idea the heat may have cracked some solder or something as he was watching something when it went black.
As you can tell, I'm just guessing at this point.
I've added some files of the board incase anything jumps out....
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All voltages on the coils are correct, though I'm not sure what I am supposed to be getting in the +VCCIN - I am reading 1.62V
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That is definitely worth knowing, thanks.
The board is the GS44D/GS54D NM-C711 Rev:1.0. I found the schematics and Boardviewer file in another thread.
I did check the other day and there was a voltage on them all but other than the Main, 5V and 3.3V I wasn't sure what they were supposed to be so I will have a look at the files for them. I can get a cheap BIOS reader/programmer if that might bed something I need. It has got the onboard ram which is the first time I have seen it....
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Lenovo V15-IIL 82C5 powering but no screen
I currently have a friends laptop that went blank while he was watching something. It powers up but no screen onboard or external.
If the battery is connected the power light is solid, but if I try with only the powersupply connected it flashes (might point to something?)
I have tried the most common troubleshooting to no avail, and there doesn't seem to be any obvious short anywhere on the board.
I can do more basic/common repairs like replacing components but if it needs anything like programming chips I do not have the equipment for that and I hope it isn't a bad GPU....
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
An oscilloscope and a bench PSU are the 2 things I don't have, though the latter is planned as soon as I have some spare cash. I have seen some reasonably priced secondhand scopes but right now I wouldn't know how to use one anyway lol
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
Jeez...no wonder it was being intermittent and everything else checked fine then. Definitely something I'm going to keep in mind for future though if the issue is being elusive. He has taken it now and it hadn't faltered in over 24 hours. I did notice residue on the back plate during that last clean so hoping whatever it was I either got or just burned off with the heat. I have learned a lot though, and thanks again for your help and advice with this, it is very much appreciated. Suppose it is back to my sub now then and try and figure that...
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
I think I've got it. Before getting a bench PSU and forcing it I decided to take the last bridge off as it was working better prior to no avail, then went round and reflowed every single connection (some bubbled) before doing a meticulous clean with alcohol and qtips. Worked straight away but after an hour it stuttered and noticed some molten flux had seeped out of somewhere, so cleaned that and now it has been solid for 19 hours inside the unit. Just cleaned up a few more bits of liquid flux and still solid. Would have liked to say it was...
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
Fair point. I'm assuming to force it to stay on I'd need to inject the 15V on the VCC connection, or the expected voltages on the pins for the amp board. Would mean I need to get myself a desktop PSU...a thermal camera would be helpful too, but no way I can afford one of those at present haha
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
That would blow something though wouldn't it? It is obviously tripping because it is detecting an issue.
I can't even get it to come on again now...I don't understand how laying a bit of wire to re-enforce a tracer, desoldering-checking-resoldering, reflowing connections, just taking measurements or even having the board outside/inside can completely change it's behaviour. So far I have had it working, static red light, slow flashing red light, fast flashing red light or nothing at all, and completely random combinations of...
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
Yeah, starting to get on my nerves a bit now haha...
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
It's gone again, but only once I had put it back inside for half an hour...it has got to be a heat issue....going to heat and freeze stuff tomorrow.
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
I had actually resoldered from that point up to the pin when I did the rest recently as I had noticed the broken bit, but with you mentioning it I decided to run wire down and it seems to have done it. Been on over an hour and cannot get it to turn red or flash. Not counting my chickens yet and going to mess with it more, but tentatively hopeful...
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
I did have a look at it but didn't see anything obvious - it is all SMD (pictures attached - Ignore the yellow and orange wires as they are just extending the LED cable as it is only just long enough to connect when the case is closed)
Measured voltages on the 102 cap in the bootstrap on the 51ohm - When it works 188V, when it does a false start and stays constant red (he said it has always done this at times and he needed to restart) 162V, and when it is flashing red a pulsing reading from 158-240V. It is working more than...
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
Yeah, that is obviously why it has been so difficult to diagnose. I tried monitoring readings but once it goes all voltages on the board are effected so it's impossible to narrow it down. I left it on for an hour after the last post and it was fine. Off/on and red light flashing again but in a weird random morse-code like pattern which was new, flicked a few switches and came back on again. On/off again a bunch of times and was fine every time, so left it on for another half hour and occasionally it cut out and flashed red briefly but on...
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
Scratch that, I left it alone for an hour and it suddenly started working again...the behavior of this board has me baffled.
Just left it with the volume up full (low input so as to not annoy the neighbours), after a few minutes it cut out went to flashing and then kicked back in again after a few seconds...going to leave it running and monitor it.Last edited by SFB; 07-26-2023, 12:41 PM.
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Re: ICE3B0365J Troubleshooting (W200 Sub)
Right, resistor replaced but now I can't get it working at all, just blinking red light. I replaced a carbon resistor with metal, will that make a difference? Voltages on the startup and around the IC are jumping all over the place again. Whether I have the second board connected or not the only stable voltage on the board is the main DC up to the starter transformer.
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