Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
What of the tall leads, is that going to be a problem?
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[newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
400 on leaded solder?
i think it should be more like 250.
do some tests on the tip of the iron - you want a temp where it melts pretty instantly into a shiny liquid ball.
if the iron is too hot you get what is called a "dry joint" where all the flux burns or evaporates and the solder goes nito a sludge instead of liquid.
the joints should not have an uneven surface because when you lift the iron off they should still be liquid.
dont touch the board again, practice with the iron first - get the hang of soldering and play with the temperature settings.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
about 60%, which was reading ~400C.
Is it going to be non functioning? or just ugly?
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
i dont know how you did it that badly, but i have an idea.
what temperature did you set the iron at?
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Ok, so The board is almost done, here's my work so far (forgot i had one more large cap to do, not going to do the small one, since I don't know what the substance is on it that's covering it)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B15...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B15...it?usp=sharing
My only concern, at the moment is that I'm not able to snip them very close to the board. Hopefully it won't be an issue.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
About the Hakko clones, there are two types of heaters used with very different wattages.
Look at page 6 here to get an idea,
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
ignore that,
your iron will only melt solder wihin a few mm of where you place it.
and even if you did melt that it would just re-solidify when you remove the iron.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
That's just tin/lead free solder applied on the traces to make them able to carry more current without heating so much.
You're not going to put so much heat on the board to make that solder flowing.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Make a picture and point out what you mean.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
I will I'm sure if i can manage it, it'll be good for just about anyone
One last set of pre-op questions. On the back of the board, there is a seemingly significant amount of solder like material in lines going from place to place, is that something i need to be concerned with melting away? or is it something that has a higher melting point than solder will?
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Lets us know how that $55 one work out.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Originally posted by stj View Postthat's just a 5$ iron powered through a lamp dimmer - i had one.
best described as useless shit - the only part i kept was the iron-holder
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Originally posted by mariushm View PostIf you don't want to pay this much, this one is the same stuff as the Weller and you don't pay that much, it's only 25$:
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Sta...SIN=B0029N70WM
best described as useless shit - the only part i kept was the iron-holder
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Sorry I'm not sure what I was looking at with that pump... it's not the one i thought i had selected. Maybe i saw the HDE which is what i thought i had grabbed originally, and didn't see it was different.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Remove that Weller soldering iron from the list, it's not worth the money.
It's not temperature adjustable, it doesn't have temperature sensing, the knob is just to adjust power going into the heating element. It's like those cheap 8-10$ soldering irons that take minutes to reach temperature, only in a nicer package and you pay 20$ for brand.
A proper soldering station that has temperature sensor and power and be still cheap is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Sta...SIN=B005TI1282
https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Dig...SIN=B000I30QBW
If you don't want to pay this much, this one is the same stuff as the Weller and you don't pay that much, it's only 25$:
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Sta...SIN=B0029N70WM
Stop trying to be cheap and get a desoldering pump that I recommended or something with good reviews.
That desoldering pump is sold AND shipped by a third party company, it's not sold from Amazon's warehouse. Most likely, it's a US company that orders every week a big package with crap from Hong Kong or China and has minimal stock in US.
In addition, you're going to pay shipping, at 3$ i guess.. so the desoldering pump is 4$. You may also receive it in 1-2 weeks, it won't come with the rest of the items from Amazon.
With a 5-7$ you get a desoldering pump that's sold by Amazon or shipped directly by Amazon, so the shipping costs are included in your package and everything will come at once..
Solder is ok, same for the wick .. but i don't feel it's necessary. Desoldering pump is more useful and enough for this job.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
sorry for seeming impatient, i kind of am, only because i want to work on the project on the weekend.. so here's the current amazon list: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wi...cm_wl_huc_view
The digikey order is the same caps that are listed in the old thread which are item #'s P12366-ND 493-1895-ND and P15349CT-ND
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
FK was listed because it comes in unusual can sizes.
sometimes only FK will fit.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
Well for starters, you don't know the percentage of tin and percentage of lead. It's probably 60/40 or 63/37 but who knows..
Next, you don't know how much flux is inside that solder wire and since it's a noname solder wire, you don't know how well the factory put that flux in the middle of the wire - you could have wire without flux or you could have parts of the wire with no flux at all. Flux is very important to make good solder jobs.
FC is not recommended for monitors, it's too sensitive to heat and it's only 2000-4000h @ 105c rated. It is low esr but borderline, it's an old series that was very good a decade ago maybe but nowadays there are better options.
Panasonic FK is about as good as FC, meaning it's not really that great.
Panasonic FM and FR are very good, they're low esr, rated for lots of hours (fr is rated up to 10k hours @105c)
But the capacitors stocked at Badcaps are just as good as Panasonic FM or FR but by all means, if you're so impatient and can't wait for answers do whatever you want to do.
ps. As you order from digikey, you could have ordered solder from there as well. At least you get brand name, good quality stuff.
ps. Give you an example.. looks like you have 1000uF 16v Su'scon SG series. That's 10x20mm , 1820mA ripple, 0.023 ohm esr/impedance. 4000h@105c
Panasonic FC is 1220mA and 0.052 ohm , both worse. Also only 3000h@ 105c . FK is 1240mA, 0.049 still worse. FR is 1790mA and 0.028 ohm, close enough for jazz... and 8000h @105cLast edited by mariushm; 07-08-2014, 01:43 PM.
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Re: [newb] Need some advice on difficulty of this repair
This is the rosin I ended up going with: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
is there anything "wrong" with it?
And here's the list from digikey (I looked on the badcaps store, however, it doesn't look like it has the things stj is recommending.
edit: Actually, it looks like the items i'm picking out based on stj's advice are what's already been mentioned from the old threadLast edited by akuthia; 07-08-2014, 01:27 PM.
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