I've fixed two Samsung SyncMaster 2043BWs now for the same issue so I'm posting this here as a solution others can search for.
In both cases the symptom is no LEDs, no turn on at all. Power is connected but there is no blue power LED even when the stupid touch-button is "touched".
Culprit in these two cases are the SamWha GF 2 x 1000uF 16V. I can't believe these blow even on a 5.1V bus. They must really suck! So I replaced all Sam-Wha? caps but the two 2043 I had some different values on the tiny caps - it's like they just drop in what they happen to have on the line... that's QC!
I replaced 4 x 470uF 25V with 2 x 1000uF,
1 x 330uF 25V w/ 220uF 25V (so the total on the 15V bus stays around 2220uF)
2 x 1000uF 16V w/ 1000uF 10V
1 x 330uF 25V (on the 5.1V bus) w/ 330uF 25V I had spare
then a bunch of other little ones I forget.. a 100uF 6.3V, 47uF 35V, 10uF 50V.
All Rubycons or Panasonic FC/Ms
Hope this helps. Here's some pics. Wha???
In both cases the symptom is no LEDs, no turn on at all. Power is connected but there is no blue power LED even when the stupid touch-button is "touched".
Culprit in these two cases are the SamWha GF 2 x 1000uF 16V. I can't believe these blow even on a 5.1V bus. They must really suck! So I replaced all Sam-Wha? caps but the two 2043 I had some different values on the tiny caps - it's like they just drop in what they happen to have on the line... that's QC!
I replaced 4 x 470uF 25V with 2 x 1000uF,
1 x 330uF 25V w/ 220uF 25V (so the total on the 15V bus stays around 2220uF)
2 x 1000uF 16V w/ 1000uF 10V
1 x 330uF 25V (on the 5.1V bus) w/ 330uF 25V I had spare
then a bunch of other little ones I forget.. a 100uF 6.3V, 47uF 35V, 10uF 50V.
All Rubycons or Panasonic FC/Ms
Hope this helps. Here's some pics. Wha???
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