All 6 going out at exactly the same time. - Probably not.
Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
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Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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well, from what I read on this site, this means that the lights are switching off the power board cause they take too much power. I read that ccfl take more power as they age which would explain why they shut off, and since they are pink, and 4 of them have black burned endings (see pic on 2nd page) I guess they are failing.
cost of 6 bulbs is 90, used working 2185 on ebay is for 90-104.
there are also non tested samsung ltm210m2-lo1 type tft panels but they seem to have a different power board connectors (the bulbs) but I guess I can salvage the bulbs and swap the connectors. They are not tested though, 54+28 shipping, doesn't seem like a deal for a nontest.
I think what I'd do is get the used-working and use the parts to trouble shoot the first one [by substitution], then build one to use and fix the other [in your leisure] for a spare.
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Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.
-
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
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I would tend to agree with replacement parts from another unit. I took apart one bank because a solder joint on the end of one bulb failed and it is NOT easy so I can't imagine replacing the bulbs one-by-one. Be patient and create a search in eBay. These monitors come up but you do need to consider cost since you can get a new monitor this size for just over a $100 now.
yea, I was looking at that bulb bank yesterday and it didn't seem like a "take it apart whenever you want" kind a part. I will stalk ebay, maybe I get something out of it.
the only reason I wanted to repair the screen is because it's spva, now I have an old replacement tn panel and any kind of photo editing is just pointless, color shifts are hurting my eyes.
I just bought another one on eBay...the most I have paid yet at $53. It will be one more project. I know I could go back and read but I have only experienced two problems with this monitor...blown 470uF caps (10mmx20mm) and blown bulbs. Have you replaced the capacitors already?
hi, yes, I have replaced the capacitors both on the logic and power boards and monitor is working, just the screen shuts off. I have the ccfl bulb banks out already and I'm looking around for a possible screen replacement or a broken 2185 (capacitors) that I can take the working bulbs out of it.
I don't feel like spending 100+ for new bulbs and then solder, put them together myself, not that it's not doable but seems risky and might cost more than it's worth.
thanks for the link, I think the screen from the auction will sell for a hundred.
This may not be the right place to enter this but I found what I call a weak design in the FPD2185W
I had one gave to me and found the MOSFETS shorted, So I replaced them along with all caps.
That fixed the power end of it but it would dim, black out, return normal etc.
The previous owner said he had that problem before it died.
After much prodding around and get symptoms where the flat ribbon plugs into the screen, I took the board off the screen and noticed that the female part was arched in the middle and not holding the male plug tight against the contacts
There is are thin metal strips on each side of this female end that can be squeezed together making a tight fit for the male end.
Problem Solved and probably why the MOSFETS went out in the first place
Hope this helps someone and please don't kill me if it's in the wrong place
That's great to hear that another one has been saved. Is the connector that you are talking about the one on the panel side of the ribbon cable between the video board and the LCD panel? There is normally some of the gooey glue from the factory at that end on all of the units that I have come across.
It connects to the back of the LCD Panel and has many wires bundled in a flat tubing
Yes it had the gooey glue on it
I found its easier to unplug that cable on the video board end so you can really tape it tight on LCD panel end.
I might clear this up some about the female plug, it would be normally rectangular but heat and age makes the long side of the rectangles arched outwards thus loosening the connection.
Since we seem to have a decent thread going on this model, I thought that I would post my new problem in the same thread.
I acquired yet another one of these monitors and I have isolated the issue of the monitor not coming on to the power board. Although the 470uF 25V capacitors didn't look bad, they have been the culprit with the other monitors of this type that I have saved.
So, I replaced them with Panasonic FM series capacitors (as I have done before) but the monitor still doesn't stay on. It does the on for 2 seconds then power off routine.
There is someone that has suggested that the transistors are an issue but I'm not completely sure how to test them. I have an identical functioning power board on my desk with this one so if you can guide me to what I should check next, I would appreciate the guidance.
Since we seem to have a decent thread going on this model, I thought that I would post my new problem in the same thread.
I acquired yet another one of these monitors and I have isolated the issue of the monitor not coming on to the power board. Although the 470uF 25V capacitors didn't look bad, they have been the culprit with the other monitors of this type that I have saved.
So, I replaced them with Panasonic FM series capacitors (as I have done before) but the monitor still doesn't stay on. It does the on for 2 seconds then power off routine.
There is someone that has suggested that the transistors are an issue but I'm not completely sure how to test them. I have an identical functioning power board on my desk with this one so if you can guide me to what I should check next, I would appreciate the guidance.
That statement is ambiguous, we need more information. Does the power LED stay on, but the display go blank? In that case, you are looking at an inverter shut down issue, sometimes referred to as the 'two seconds to black' problem. If the power LED also goes off, there is another issue.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Sorry about the lack of detail, I will try to be more concise. The LED stays on (blue) when the unit is powered up and then the display turns off.
I measured a couple of values but I don't know if they help.
N/F = 0.0 VDC when panel is off
N/F = 3.1 VDC when panel is on
BL = 1.5 VDC when panel is off
BL = 1.488 VDC when panel is on
Please double check the N/F voltage in the following states: Power LED on, backlights on; Power LED on, backlights off; Power LED off. I would expect to see it change voltage in synchronization with the power LED.
There are two tests to perform on the transistors. Note that there are three leads on each transistor. For simplicity (and because I'm tired) we will assume the tab is pointing away from you, and will label the leads L (for left), T (for tab), and R (for right). It is not necessary to remove the transistors from the board for either of these tests.
The first is a simple continuity test. Set the ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale (typically 200 ohms). Measure the resistance between each combination of leads on each transistor. The orientation of the meter leads is not important. You should wind up with a table that looks like this.
L - T T - R L - R
U301
U302
U304
U305
If any reading is less than 20 ohms it is not necessary to perform the second test. Simply post your results.
Now we are looking for bad junctions. Set the meter on the diode test scale. For the following tests, the black meter lead goes on the first lead, the red lead on the second.
L - T L - R T - L T - R R - L R - T
U301
U302
U304
U305
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
As for N/F, my notes were correct. When the panel is off, it reads 0.0VDC, when the panel is on (with backlights on) it reads 3.1 VDC, then the panel goes black (blue LED remains blue) and the value still reads 3.1 VDC. After about 30 seconds the panel goes in to standby (when I don't have a video source connected) and the voltage eventually starts dropping back to 0.0VDC.
As for the transistors, I have tabulated per your suggestions (for some reason my formatting is all lost but hopefully you get the idea.
Continuity Test
L-T T-R L-R
U301 OL OL OL
U302 OL OL OL
U304 OL OL OL
U305 OL OL OL
Bad Junctions
L-T T-R L-R
U301 OL OL OL
U302 OL 0.488 0.643
U304 OL OL OL
U305 OL 0.486 0.642
Note that for the T-R readings of U301 and U304 under the diode test, they were not immediately OL. They started about 0.5VDC and climbed over a couple seconds to OL.
As for N/F, my notes were correct. When the panel is off, it reads 0.0VDC, when the panel is on (with backlights on) it reads 3.1 VDC, then the panel goes black (blue LED remains blue) and the value still reads 3.1 VDC. After about 30 seconds the panel goes in to standby (when I don't have a video source connected) and the voltage eventually starts dropping back to 0.0VDC.
As for the transistors, I have tabulated per your suggestions (for some reason my formatting is all lost but hopefully you get the idea.
Continuity Test
L-T T-R L-R
U301 OL OL OL
U302 OL OL OL
U304 OL OL OL
U305 OL OL OL
Bad Junctions
L-T T-R L-R
U301 OL OL OL
U302 OL 0.488 0.643
U304 OL OL OL
U305 OL 0.486 0.642
Note that for the T-R readings of U301 and U304 under the diode test, they were not immediately OL. They started about 0.5VDC and climbed over a couple seconds to OL.
to save some time for you
Plainbill wanted reversed readings on the bad junctions (6 readings per transistor)
I have re-done the diode test and copied the order exactly (sorry about the lack of attention) and posted the results below:
Bad Junctions
L-T L-R T-L T-R R-L R-T
U301 OL OL OL OL 0.697 0.507
U302 OL 0.641 OL 0.472 OL OL
U304 OL OL OL OL 0.695 0.506
U305 OL 0.639 OL 0.468 OL OL
I have re-done the diode test and copied the order exactly (sorry about the lack of attention) and posted the results below:
Bad Junctions
L-T L-R T-L T-R R-L R-T
U301 OL OL OL OL 0.697 0.507
U302 OL 0.641 OL 0.472 OL OL
U304 OL OL OL OL 0.695 0.506
U305 OL 0.639 OL 0.468 OL OL
It's a crude test, but the transistors seem to be good.
There are several other possibilities. A shorted or open transformer would do this. And a bad CCFL or problem with the wiring would do it. And lastly, a bad component in the current sense or OVP circuitry would do it.
A picture of the bottom of the inverter would be a big help.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
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