Sony KDL-46EX710 TV Troubleshooting and Repair False TEMP error?

[garnerjusa]

Hi, before anyone accuses me of not reading the forums, I want you to know that I DID read through all of the various threads with advice on similar issues with similar model Sony TVs. In fact, I have temporarily "fixed" my issue because of some of the advice from other members of badcaps, and I am just full of myself now and want to see this through to the end.

I don't know if I have the expertise necessary to do this as I'm not going to imagine that I will be replacing caps or resistors on the boards, but if I can figure out which board is bad, I'm more than capable of doing the old pluck and chuck and getting a few more years out of this TV that I love.

So, here's the deal: Sony KDL-46EX710 TV suddenly started shutting off at random. It wouldn't turn back on until a period of time had passes (maybe an hour or so). After a day or two of this, the TV finally just stopped working. I could power it on, but it would turn off immediately with an audible click. I found the Badcaps forum, and some folks stated to look at the led blinking pattern on the front. Did that, and it revealed the same issue I found here (TEMP ERR): http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...t=sony+tv+temp

TEMP ERR ... Normally this would be one of the main boards malfunctioning, but taking the advice of the thread creator above, I removed the tiny little board that basically functions only as the receiver for the RF remote control and the LED power indicator lights on the front of the TV. I've seen this called the Sensor board, the HLR board, HLR2 board among other names. I've included two pictures of the tiny board in question, and as best I can tell after a ton of heavy digging online the actual part number is A-1759-229-A (although the digits exhibited on the board are different--what is typed on the board results in a ton of possible matches on a parts search--most of which look nothing like the board in question).

With that tiny board removed, I have been using the TV for a month all day long without any issue whatsoever (except that I cannot use my remote control obviously).

So, here's my inquiry:
The sensor board I removed is impossible to find for sale anywhere. Before I go through the trouble of sourcing it and likely overpaying for it, I was wondering if replacing it would actually fix the problem. Does this board merely contain some sort of sensor that is being digitally "flipped" to shut the TV off as a precaution for an issue that has been detected in one of the main boards (like a temp issue)? Obviously, if that IS the case, then the board I removed is actually functioning normally, so replacing it wouldn't make any difference at all. On the other hand, if this is a false temp error, then is there a simple wire to the board's connector that I could cut or a soldering point I could "break" in order to prevent the cautionary "flipping" of the digital switch which is forcing the power down? If so, then obviously the TV would still function and I could use my remote control again.

However, if none of those are options for me, and you believe that the issue actually is REAL and on one of the main boards, then which one of the other boards should I replace? And how do we know this is the case? The other threads included a lot of schematic-driven component-level troubleshooting. I'm just not equipped for that. I was just hoping someone could "dumb it down for me" and explain what is really most likely happening here. With the right understanding of the functioning of the boards and what might be going on here, I think I'll be able to determine the best part to "pluck and chuck."

Thank you in advance for all of your assistance!

Board that I removed to get TV working:

[budm]

That is the IR (Infrared) sensor board that receives the Remote signal from your remote control, it looks like hard to get and so far I cannot find any service info for it yet. They are cheap if you can find one.
http://www.shopjimmy.com/sony-a-1759...-hlr-board.htm

[budm]

BTW:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46810

The HLR diagram may be close enough for troubleshooting.

[garnerjusa]

Originally Posted by budm

That is the IR (Infrared) sensor board that receives the Remote signal from your remote control, it looks like hard to get and so far I cannot find any service info for it yet. They are cheap if you can find one.
http://www.shopjimmy.com/sony-a-1759...-hlr-board.htm

Thanks, yea I found a few of them in Europe for sale. They aren't really cheap. I was just wondering if it was even worth it. Does anyone thing it's actually this board or do you think it's an actual TEMP ERR issue on the Main or BAL board that is causing a safety switch off on this sensor board?

[garnerjusa]

Originally Posted by budm

BTW:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46810

The HLR diagram may be close enough for troubleshooting.

Thanks! That's the first helpful diagram I've seen. Looking at numbers 1-12 on the lines in, do you think one of them might be a sort of safety power off from the main or bal boards? I'm wondering if this is really a bad chip or if there is some sort of signal being sent to it from the other boards that are forcing this chip to power the TV off.

[budm]

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46810
Post 9:
This could be big
Wish I had a Schematic
the connector to the HLR board has 1 white wire and the rest grey
the last grey wire showed me a voltage of 2.3 V while connected to the board
See if that wire is for pin 12 or not.
Pin 12 per diagram is for the Clock signal of the 'RGB Sensor S11059-78HT' which I do not know what it is yet but that may be the cause of the problem. I need to do more research on that part.
Found the info. Pin 1 of the connector is the VCC pin so it cannot be that one.
It is made by HAMAMATSU.
http://images.100y.com.tw/pdf_file/4...11059-78HT.pdf
SONY uses that in alot of models.

[R_J]

It could be the "presence sensor" https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-b...x700/review/2/ used to detect movement in the room

[budm]

Sounds like for more stuff to fail, just another useless gimmick.
If that is the case, then disconnecting that wire may have solved the problem due to faulty sensor.
I will see what OP will find out.