LG 50PC1DA - Clicking not as simple as I thought

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • tom66
    EVs Rule
    • Apr 2011
    • 32560
    • UK

    #1

    LG 50PC1DA - Clicking not as simple as I thought

    Symptoms:
    - Inrush relay clicks
    - Vs/Va start rising slowly
    - Vs/Va collapse slowly
    - Relay clicks back off

    Tested/replaced:
    - AC Detect is good
    - IPMs are good (while Vs is rising and falling, the waveforms are there.)
    - All bad caps (at least 10) replaced
    - Several non bulgers replaced
    - C855 blue poly cap replaced
    - Main board is leaving control signals on
    - Panel temperature is OK

    Next step is to check the microcontroller inputs -- something may be awry there. Seriously wish LG released a schematic of this PSU.

    Have a spare mainboard will consider swapping it.

    Right now though, am drawing a blank...
    Last edited by tom66; 02-15-2013, 06:50 AM.
    Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
    For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
  • ron77
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2012
    • 63
    • united kingdom

    #2
    Re: LG 50PC1DA - Clicking not as simple as I thought

    Looked at this thread yesterday.Could not think of anything that could be helpfull.This morning, however, remembered had similar fault on phillips plasma.I will tell you the symptoms and cure,but fully aware your knowledge of plasma is very good. Vs, va rose slowly, but could not reach their correct voltages. The vs though stuck on 54v. By heating the psu got vs up to 80v quickly enough, to stop it collapsing. There was no fault anywhere on the psu other than capacitor on 9v rail, part of the stby secondary circuit. Probably won't help you, but is sort of similar to to way your tv is performing. Ron77.

    Comment

    • tom66
      EVs Rule
      • Apr 2011
      • 32560
      • UK

      #3
      Re: LG 50PC1DA - Clicking not as simple as I thought

      Hi Ron. I actually just fixed with a friend the Philips PSU you talk of. Bad cap on 9V rail. Though that one was throwing 2 blink error. We've nearly replaced every cap on the PSU...
      Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
      For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

      Comment

      • tom66
        EVs Rule
        • Apr 2011
        • 32560
        • UK

        #4
        Re: LG 50PC1DA - Clicking not as simple as I thought

        OK... Now, with some tweaking of Vs/Va, the plasma panel powers up... yay...

        Not so hopeful though. While it does light, we only see occasional flickers of grey.

        Eventual diagnosis found:
        - ER IPM to be failed (but NO obvious shorts; it is breaking down) Burning smell and arcing noise heard from device.
        - SUS IPM to be suspect (believed good but cannot rule it out)
        - All but the bottom two buffer ICs to be fried (10 out of 12 with dead output lines)

        The repair has been determined to be uneconomical for now, as it will cost well over £130 to fix.
        Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
        For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

        Comment

        • flocko
          Badcaps Legend
          • Nov 2012
          • 1121
          • uk

          #5
          Re: LG 50PC1DA - Clicking not as simple as I thought

          Hi Tom what did you find on the power board to get the vs to come up faster? On my board by the time Vson hits 4.9v the relay has already dropped out, Got more caps on the primary side to change when they get here,there are lots 50PC1DA down this way with damaged screens the most that i pay for them is £15.

          Comment

          • tom66
            EVs Rule
            • Apr 2011
            • 32560
            • UK

            #6
            Re: LG 50PC1DA - Clicking not as simple as I thought

            Hey if you get a cracked screen 50PC1DA I'd be interested in the Y-sustain and buffer boards.

            Vs/Va needed a tweak to the pots... not sure why but both were at extreme minimum, tweaked them to rated voltage and the panel began sustaining (voltages stayed up, relay didn't click off.)
            Last edited by tom66; 02-18-2013, 11:04 AM.
            Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
            For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.

            Comment

            Related Topics

            Collapse

            • momaka
              HannStar Hanns-G HC194d LCD monitor repair
              by momaka
              Normally, I never post repairs this quick after I do them, because… I am usually very slow. But today, I’m making an exception here. Why? No idea. Perhaps only because the repair details are still “fresh” in my head… which is ironic, given this is a 16 year old monitor that hardly anyone will care about today. It is new to me, though. I picked it up last November from someone on my local Craigslist. It wasn’t very close to where I live, but was close to a family friend that I had to go visit anyways. So after watching the posting on Craigslist for a few weeks and seeing it getting...
              03-15-2023, 10:17 PM
            • Cornito
              Thomson 50UD6306 (TCL) Backlight Issue, starts then stops, led changed
              by Cornito
              Hello Team,

              I'm back with another backlight issue that I thought was simple, but it turned out to be more complex than expected.

              Let me provide a brief history: The TV was working well, then one day, the backlight started and shut down. I thought I had an LED issue leading to this behavior, so I replaced the LEDs with brand new ones. However, the issue remains the same.

              Next, I replaced the electrolytic capacitors attached to the LED power supply, but the results were the same. I then replaced the driver, a OB3365RP, and did it twice due to the same result....
              08-08-2024, 08:09 AM
            • CoppellTVRepair
              Troubleshooting PFC with SPC1012T not raising output
              by CoppellTVRepair
              It has been a long while since I posted here to ask anything....hope you can help.

              I have this Samsung power supply that uses SPC1012T as driver for the PFC and it's giving me a problem that I can't narrow down though I've troubleshooted and fixed hundreds of boards similar circuits.

              I am attaching a schematic from a different Samsung board, but the topography is very very similar if not 100% the same and it uses SPC1012T, which BTW is a pinout match to UCC28063 for which there's plenty of information. I haven't confirmed they are functional equivalents, but I strongly...
              03-09-2025, 10:38 PM
            • mrdevil
              Crest Smart Home Single Power Adaptor SHSPM1 (rebadged Tuya device) - bad cap causing failure, how to repair
              by mrdevil
              Hi all,

              Wanted to share this as I couldn't find anything on the internet about this problem, so pulled one apart and found the problem myself. Years ago I bought approx 20 or so Crest Smart Home Single Power Adapter smart switches - small 240v Tuya-compatible (rebranded) smart switch devices with power monitoring, which Big W had on sale for half price. Paid $7.50 each for these, and they've been incredibly useful for turning things on and off remotely... and monitoring how much power each device uses.

              However, after about 12 months, I had a number of these stop working...
              01-08-2025, 03:19 AM
            • Loretto
              Samsung SMPS BN44-00339A
              by Loretto
              Hi all,
              this unit comes from a samsumg LCD TV LE32C530F1W which stopped working after making a strong noise like something was exploded inside of it.
              I opened it and found that fuse FP801S was blown, capacitor CP814 was completely disintegrated and MOSFET QP801S was shorted.
              I replaced all of them and instead of the fuse I connected a 100 Watt bulb. Then, without connecting it to other TV boards, I switched it on, but the bulb begun to blink.
              I thought that maybe the bulb was somehow interfering with the normal operation of the power supply, so I replaced it with a fuse,...
              03-29-2025, 08:30 AM
            • Loading...
            • No more items.
            Working...