LOL, too funny, Thank You Sir and Im sending a cup of Joe your way
There are three possible causes of this problem. The power supply itself; the inverter,or the logic card. The only time I saw something similar was when their were shorted transistors in the inverter. This overloaded the power supply. HOWEVER, you have determined the 5V supply is stable. Next you can eliminate the inverter as a cause. This is the datasheet for the two ICs (actually paired power mosfets). Check each section of the pair for shorts. Check the resistance between D1 and G1, between G1 and S1, and between D1 and S1; repeat for D2 and G2, between G2 and S2, and between D2 and S2. Do this for BOTH ICs. If there are no shorts, unsolder one end of the jumper I have circled in the attachment. This completely isolates the inverter from the power supply. Now test the board in the monitor - no need to hook up the backlights. All we're interested in at this point is the behavior of the green power light.
The other two possible causes are the logic board, or more bad caps in either the power supply or the logic card.
PlainBill
Attached Files
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
I think I angered it. When I put the board back in to test it started smoking from the actual corner of the screen itself. LOL, Im just going to call this one a bust. Thank you for your patience with me. Until next time
I think I angered it. When I put the board back in to test it started smoking from the actual corner of the screen itself. LOL, Im just going to call this one a bust. Thank you for your patience with me. Until next time
Sometimes sacrifices are necessary. When it's a burnt offering, it's better to sacrifice a monitor than and human - well, some humans.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
I totally know what ya mean, I've been married 3 times. LOL
Some people learn faster than others. At one time I introduced my wife as 'My first wife.' She retaliated by referring to me as her 'starter Husband.' I decided to refer to her as 'My trophy wife.' Things got a lot calmer after I came to my senses.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
I think I angered it. When I put the board back in to test it started smoking from the actual corner of the screen itself. LOL, Im just going to call this one a bust. Thank you for your patience with me. Until next time
Save the monitor. You can use parts of it to test (or even fix) other unit(s).
I have a box (not too big, but still a box) full of either received dead units, units killed by me in the name of science, or killed by others and donated to me. That box is a very precious resource sometimes ...
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
So I read pretty much the entire thread and im afraid im still not sure where to start. I have the Dell E153FPB. When i turn on the LCD screen it flashes white for a second and then goes black. I cannot see any image on the screen but the LED power light stays on.
I tested the fuse PF751 with an ohm meter and it has resistance, so im thinking its not that.
I also flipped the board over and didnt see any cold solder joints, fixed a couple that were debatable.
Sorry if this is a double post. I couldnt look any longer lol
So I read pretty much the entire thread and im afraid im still not sure where to start. I have the Dell E153FPB. When i turn on the LCD screen it flashes white for a second and then goes black. I cannot see any image on the screen but the LED power light stays on.
I tested the fuse PF751 with an ohm meter and it has resistance, so im thinking its not that.
I also flipped the board over and didnt see any cold solder joints, fixed a couple that were debatable.
Sorry if this is a double post. I couldnt look any longer lol
Used a flashlight to see if the panel is on and image is displayed (you would not see it clearly if the CCFLs are off but if you don't have an image, it's not the inverter or tubes.
Post series/brand/capacitance of caps, and test each of the four c5707s in there.
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
How do i test capacitance of the caps? I have a multimeter...
I was referring to the specs of the actual caps installed, not the actual capacitance of the caps. If they are a known bad brand , suggestions of replacements would start flowing all over the place. That would be the first step for troubleshooting the board. Not all the problems are related to bad caps, but then again, bad caps can cause problems and interfere with troubleshooting, and as a general rule, if you are going to spend sometime with an open unit, it is usually viewed as a preventive measure, even if the caps are not failing but are of a brand that, under that conditions (heat and poor ventilation) would fail.
Also, again, look for bad solder because that units tend to have that problem, even if it is not easily visible with the naked eye.
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
So I read pretty much the entire thread and im afraid im still not sure where to start. I have the Dell E153FPB. When i turn on the LCD screen it flashes white for a second and then goes black. I cannot see any image on the screen but the LED power light stays on.
I tested the fuse PF751 with an ohm meter and it has resistance, so im thinking its not that.
I also flipped the board over and didnt see any cold solder joints, fixed a couple that were debatable.
Sorry if this is a double post. I couldnt look any longer lol
Start with post 31 of this thread and follow the same advice.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Testing out of circuit with MM set on Diode Check
Red probe on B and Black on C, Should read about 600
Red probe on B and Black on E, Should read about 600
Testing for shorts between pins set MM to Buzzer and check
B + C
B + E
C + E
Probes both ways
I tested mine and got about 426 is that too far off?
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