how do I polymod this?

[Uranium-235]

I have a shuttle. Input VRM is 16v 1500. thats not an issue. All the output caps are 10v 3300.

the sucker is a heat problem with this 3ghz/800 prescott in such a small case.

I at least want to poly the vrm

3300 is kind of high. What the minimum I can go on this safely? I see some nichicons on mouser that are 10/1500, but they're smd. can I just remove that black piece of plastic and replace and turn these into radials?

ugh these fuckers are expensive

[mariushm]

Re: how do I polymod this?

I would be comfortable with 1800uF 4v :

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...105-ND/1662491

But 1500uF would probably also work just fine.

The CPU doesn't see more than 2v or a bit more, so using 4v rated caps should be perfectly safe. They're just using 10v rated caps for best diameter/esr/ripple combo.

Nah, you CAN remove that plastic bottom but the leads are wider, won't easily go through the holes in the pcb.

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

I thought since this was a weird system there might be more involved but I just took it to the meter and it reads 1.2v on output

damn number of 3300ufs for a 1v output vrm

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

damn still $20 for 8 of these fuckers. I just might replace them with nichi HM's.

thanks for the info, I should of known

[c_hegge]

Re: how do I polymod this?

I'd go with 1500uF 2.5V Polies (http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...221-ND/1826685). I've often used them on the VRM out to replace 3300uF 6.3 lytics. On the VRM In, Go with 470uF 16v polies. (http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...019-ND/1136109)

Otherwise, use lytics and mod the case for better cooling

It shouldn't be $20 for 8 of them. Are you sure you didn't mean $10?

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

on mouser, $20

I like mouser cause they're 5 mins from me and I can pick them up the next day

unfortunately, all low esr lytics have a minimum diameter of 12.5, and these are 8mm (10 will fit) on mouser

[mariushm]

Re: how do I polymod this?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...691-ND/2207226
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...700-ND/2207236

Get 10 of these for 6$, plus a couple of dollars on shipping fees.
What's an extra day when you save more than 10 bucks...

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

those are Functional Polymers. Hmm.

Still better than OST RLS I bet

[c_hegge]

Re: how do I polymod this?

Nichicon FPCAP are usually quite reliable. Nichicon know what they're doing with their functional polies, so I wouldn't have a problem with them.

[ben7]

Re: how do I polymod this?

^ Agreed.

DON'T take the plastic off the base of an SMD capacitor, when you bend the leads they are VERY likely to break! I learnt that the hard way...

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

^ Agreed.

DON'T take the plastic off the base of an SMD capacitor, when you bend the leads they are VERY likely to break! I learnt that the hard way...

in that case I just thought of something. its possible to take some decent sturdy wire, solder it into the holes with ~1-2mm sticking up, and bend it inward, and solder the cap ontop of that. Might come off easy though since its round wire

[mariushm]

Re: how do I polymod this?

It's possible, but you increase the overall length of the capacitor lead this way by a lot.

In the VRM section, the length of the wire should to be as small as possible, otherwise the wire will behave like an inductor and potentially mess up things.
Plus, with high peak currents there, I don't know how thin wire would behave.

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

well I got them in. pain in the ass board to work on but looks great and runs good.

runs this chip kind of wierd though. Its a SL6WK 3ghz HT and the 'auto' voltage in the bios sets it to 1.5v, which is 100mv over the max spec by intel. Sure it dosen't hurt anything but it causes it to run hotter, and in this small shuttle case, that sucks. I put it down to 1.35 (intel spec says 1.25-1.4) and it booted fine. still have to get into windows and prime95 it. Monday i'm replacing a ladys 3.2ghz P4 478 with a new MB and a celeron G1610 (which gets awesome scores for a $49 cpu-and backward comatible with pretty much all LGA 1155 boards [some requiring a bios flash]-congrats on intel for porting ivy bridge to 1155, I don't think that socket will be dying anytime soon). Anyways, shell probably let me keep it so I'll take that 3.2 and put it in here see how it does. Add a gig of ram and xp to it, its a nice little box. I plan to eventually replace the rest of the caps with nichicon lytics, unless I can track down the nb vrm (ATI RS300) I might try to polymod that too

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

well sonofabitch. I guess the motherboard didn't mind the polys, but the power supply did. Its a 250w /w pfc shuttle psu. Its dead. fuck

[mariushm]

Re: how do I polymod this?

Pictures or it never happened :p

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

actually, never happened.

One thing I did before I even started this project (I had this shuttle 4 years, bought it 'untested' [though I actually booted it] from goodwill for $50, was used at my old workplace for 2 years. Had heat problems). Turns out one of the 3 fan headers is dead. There are two fan headers under the cpu fan (blowing out the back). One is header 3, which is always full on (for the RS300 fan) the other one is dead, and the other header is actually next to the RS300, but pics always show the RS300 always hooked to header 3. The bios's smart fan feature will only let me choose fan header 1 or 2 for CPU fan throttling. header 1 is dead, and header 2 is too far for the fucking cpu fan cable. But tomorrow i'm going to frys to get another fan since this one's bearings are dirty anyways, and this one from frys will undoubtely have a longer cable. Hell I might get a LED fan. OK ..back to the story. I took apart the PSU before I even considered recapping. Had some OST caps but they were all in good condition. PSU generally looked nice (no burn marks, no bloated caps, no burn smell).

I took it apart (the PSU), all looked just fine. Put the tester back on (antec tested with the 5 LED's), started up fine. My initial worry was cause the damn thing would not turn on (the shuttle). The tester gave me 4 orange lights and one green on the 5SB. I put the PSU back together and the computer turned on. Not sure what to think. Maybe something inside was loose. which still worries me

[mariushm]

Re: how do I polymod this?

It was just an expression anyway, but wanted to say it in a funny way to post some pictures if you need a second set of eyes for debugging/investigation purposes.

You could just hack the cable, after all it's just 3-4 wires.. just cut wire, add some wire in the middle, solder and insulate..

I'm not familiar with the small format of Shuttle systems , but depending on how it's laid out too many fans may actually hurt its cooling... there should be air flow, not air pushed inside and going nowhere.

Could you still post some pictures of the system and the power supply (unless you have to open it again in which case don't bother) ? I'm curious to see how it looks inside.

[Uranium-235]

Re: how do I polymod this?

heres a few online pics

http://www.hardwareoverclock.com/Bar...-ST61G4-17.jpg

http://img.hexus.net/v2/sff/shuttle/st61/Inside1.jpg

it has one copper based heatsink ontop of the 478 chip, heatpiped to a grill in the back, and a fan blowing on that, out the back. The RS300 has an active fan. Suprisingly, mine still works with no bearing issues for such a small fan, which is kind of rare in my experience.

the rest of this page has some other images

http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/system...g4-xpc/?page=4

[ben7]

Re: how do I polymod this?

Since you said the PSU worked after you moved it around again, I am guessing there is a bad solder joint or two in there. Possibly from your soldering, or possibly other joints have cracked from being stressed by the disassembly process.

[c_hegge]

Re: how do I polymod this?

You polymodded the PSU?