Has anyone used these caps and are they good? The ones I was looking at looked good, i'm making a beefy psu with a few 25V 4700uF caps. The specs look great as they are rated at 0.012 ESR and 4220 Ripple. Hopefully I have read those right
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Re: Nichicon HE caps
Assuming you have genuine Nichicon HEs, they are excellent. Not the absolute lowest impedance, but very close and their rated life is far higher than the lowest impedance parts. I'd also consider United Chemicon (Nippon Chemicon) KZE, HY and Rubycon ZL series to be of similar high quality.PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
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To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
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Re: Nichicon HE caps
ZL, KZE are one step up
HE is equivalent to KY
At 25V 4700uF, you could probably do very well with even PW/FC series since the ESR tends to get so low at higher values.Comment
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Re: Nichicon HE caps
"HY" was a typo. I meant KY. KZE and ZL are a step lower in impedance and equivalent to HD IIRC. But they are also 5000 hour series where HE and KY are 10,000 hour series. I haven't found HD to be as durable, but that's under very extreme testing and with just one set of samples.Last edited by PeteS in CA; 01-05-2013, 06:28 PM.PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
****************************
To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
****************************Comment
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I recently acquired a set of Bose Roomate speakers from the mid to late 80's. Basically the right speaker cabinet is completely passive, and the left one has the power transformer and amplifier circuit in it. Out of curiosity, I opened it up to see what the circuit looked like. Looks like they used all Nichicon VX (2x 4700uF/16v for smoothing off the bridge rectifier), a couple random Nichicon SE series sprinkled on the board, and what really caught my eye - 2 yellow sleeved Nichicon caps (both 1uF/50v with no real series marking. Below are pictures of the caps. The only thing not shown in these... -
I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.
For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772
It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:
https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177... -
Hello,
First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.
I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.
I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
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Hello!
I have two projects on my work bench. One is a friends dead JBL Xtreme speaker with a blown voltage regulator and corresponding bulged and shorted cap. That cap has clear markings so I know what replacement I need for it.
The other project however is a whole different deal. It's a Zoom 9000 guitar effect from the 90th that has developed a devil hound howl when there is no input from the guitar. I'm guessing caps problem. So, since I don't really use this effect anymore I thought it would be a perfect project to learn on.
I have studied the board and... -
I'm trying to repair two old VCRs, they both have bad caps. One has leaky ones, the other would barely run until I subbed in some caps from another power supply I had laying around (though they are the wrong values). This vcr works for an hour or two, but then the power supply starts whining and the picture gets lines in it. I didn't replace all the secondary caps, so another voltage might still be problematic, or the values I used are too far off.
I've been on mouser and digikey but the options are a bit overwhelming. I just need some new ones that will work. They don't need to be top quality,...
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