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Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

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    #41
    Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

    Well, I still haven't broken that clay solder pot yet. The reason for that is because I built a solder pot very similar to Agent24's and it works very good.

    I ended up using a 5/8" (about 16 mm) diameter copper cap (the type used for water pipes here) for the job. It was just the easiest way I could think of (and it really was). First, I drilled a hole in the center and then put a small bolt through it. The bolt has the same diameter size and thread pitch as that used on my 35W Radio Shack iron tip (it's a screw-in tip... i.e. a tip with a bolt thread on one end that you screw into the iron). As for the stand - I saw a piece of wood plank in the trash can of my recent former job. It looked nice so I took it. I immediately thought about using it for the solder pot stand - and I did. Things couldn't have worked more perfectly. Some cutting and drilling, then 6 nails later and I got a nice looking and very functional solder pot stand. The design is really good IMO, because I can easily take out the soldering iron - just pull up that wire piece that looks like the mouth of the smiley face to remove it and the iron can be taken out of the stand. As for removing the solder pot - well, it's on a screw. As soon as it's cool enough to handle, you just twist to unscrew from the soldering iron and that's it. The only potential downfall of that is if somehow the solder pot becomes unscrewed while the solder is hot - lots of bad things can happen then. But that hasn't happened so far.

    I'll let the pictures speak for themselves now:
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1343353897
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1343353897

    The pot was already used to remove some multi-pin parts on a single layer TV board - it worked very well for that. I also used it to solder some 18/20 AWG stranded wires to each other (had a Bestec ATX-1956D PSU that needed wires since its original wires were cut when I found it) - now this solder pot made the job very easy for that. Just put some flux on the wires and dip them in the solder pot for a second or two. Take out and you get perfect joints. Soldering the wires together was the easiest part about rewiring that PSU, thanks to the solder pot.

    I'm thinking about making some different size solder pots for it now - that way if I need to remove a component from a board that has SMD parts around it, I can just pick the right size pot for the job.

    If any of you have an old crappy iron that you are not using, I encourage you to try this - it's very easy to make. If you do lots of wire-to-wire soldering, this will make the job super easy.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by momaka; 07-26-2012, 08:00 PM.

    Comment


      #42
      Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

      Very nice. A few questions:

      1) What is that handle thing coming out of the iron where the wire is coming through? Or is that a standard handle for that iron?
      2) Can you tell me which type of bolt you used (Specifically, the thread type). I'm a bit confused on how you did this. Did you take a threaded screw, chop off the top, and then screw half in the iron and half in the bolt on the inside of the copper plumbing cap?
      3) Can you test this on polymer caps from boards with RoHS solder, specifically those that are located near a ground plane? I find polymer caps absorb heat much quicker than electrolytics and are not as easy to desolder.
      "We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."

      -Leonid Brezhnev (On the Yom Kippur War)

      Comment


        #43
        Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

        Thanks.

        1) It's just a standard Radio Shack 30W iron/gun. Here it is:
        http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...odsInSession=1
        Side note: looks like the price went up on it. It used to be $8. I noticed that the Micro Center near me recently also stocked a few of those - $4 a pop, lol.

        2) I'll have to check. Bolt's diameter is about 1/8" or 3 mm, not sure about the pitch. Basically, it was the same as the as the removable tip of my iron. Obviously if you have a different iron, you may need to get a different size bolt - provided that your even has that type of tip.

        As for the mounting - just took a normal bolt and drilled a hole through the copper cap, then removed the tip from the iron and screwed the copper cap in its place. So basically the copper cap is held to the iron with the bolt. I did not cut off the head on the bolt. I did need to shorted the bolt a little bit, though.
        Not sure if that clears it up. If not, let me know and I can take some pictures of the cap.

        3) Haven't tested poly cap removal on multi-layer boards yet. As for regular caps on PC motherboards - I don't remember. I do remember I tried it with the old pot and it didn't work that great (it worked though). I think good flux is the key here.

        Now that I look back on this comment I made (post #11 of this thread)...
        Originally posted by momaka
        I've been removing caps from consoles and lead-free motherboards in the last few days - and it's not easy (at least not to me) even with good expensive equipment!
        I guess I can say I was still a big noob at desoldering back then. With the same equipment at work, I can now take off any caps off of any board, lead or lead-free. The polys are only a bit harder but still not that bad at all. I can de-cap a whole board with 20-30 caps in probably less than 10 minutes.
        Last edited by momaka; 07-26-2012, 08:49 PM.

        Comment


          #44
          Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

          Originally posted by momaka View Post
          Well, I still haven't broken that clay solder pot yet. The reason for that is because I built a solder pot very similar to Agent24's and it works very good.
          Looks nice, but best of all I guess it smells a lot better!

          Originally posted by momaka View Post
          3) Haven't tested poly cap removal on multi-layer boards yet. As for regular caps on PC motherboards - I don't remember. I do remember I tried it with the old pot and it didn't work that great (it worked though). I think good flux is the key here.
          Does the new one work any better? I found mine worked best after it had pre-heated the surrounding board up from cold. Or maybe mine is a bit too small. I should try a bigger size. Perhaps a pre-heater would be a good idea. In fact a pre-heater is probably good idea no matter how you are (de)soldering, with multi-layer boards.

          Also I think trying to hold a large board on top of a little pot doesn't help, as it might not make the best contact. Perhaps some kind of board holder on a lever mechanism (like a drill press) would allow for a more precise and easy way to lower the board down onto the pot.

          Originally posted by momaka View Post
          I guess I can say I was still a big noob at desoldering back then. With the same equipment at work, I can now take off any caps off of any board, lead or lead-free. The polys are only a bit harder but still not that bad at all. I can de-cap a whole board with 20-30 caps in probably less than 10 minutes.
          What kind of stuff do you use there?
          "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
          -David VanHorn

          Comment


            #45
            Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

            As for the mounting - just took a normal bolt and drilled a hole through the copper cap, then removed the tip from the iron and screwed the copper cap in its place. So basically the copper cap is held to the iron with the bolt. I did not cut off the head on the bolt. I did need to shorted the bolt a little bit, though.
            Not sure if that clears it up. If not, let me know and I can take some pictures of the cap.
            Ah, that clears it up, so you have a bolt sitting in between the copper plumbing cap and the iron, and the screw comes in from the inside of the cap... What exactly is the point of the bolt?
            "We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."

            -Leonid Brezhnev (On the Yom Kippur War)

            Comment


              #46
              Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

              Originally posted by Agent24 View Post
              Looks nice, but best of all I guess it smells a lot better!
              You bet!

              Originally posted by Agent24 View Post
              Does the new one work any better?
              Still haven't tested it yet on motherboards. It does heat up much much faster - about 10 minutes max to reach full temperature.

              Originally posted by Agent24 View Post
              In fact a pre-heater is probably good idea no matter how you are (de)soldering, with multi-layer boards.
              If you have a decent digital temp-regulated iron, you won't need to. Flux, chisel tip, and lots of solder on the tip can work all sorts of magic.

              Originally posted by Agent24 View Post
              Also I think trying to hold a large board on top of a little pot doesn't help, as it might not make the best contact. Perhaps some kind of board holder on a lever mechanism (like a drill press) would allow for a more precise and easy way to lower the board down onto the pot.
              I thought about that too, and I definitely think it would help as well. I'm too lazy to try building it, though.

              Originally posted by Agent24 View Post
              What kind of stuff do you use there?
              We have several digital temp-regulated irons at work. One of them is a Aoyue 937+. It has the cartridge handle and tips though, not the cheap crappy ones that most of those Chinese stations come with - those are not that good. I especially like the chisel tip we have. Just as I mentioned above - put some flux on the component's legs to be soldered/desoldered, put some solder on the tip, and heat away.
              With this method I can remove caps, coils, and just about anything else. With ease! Especially caps - they just pop out.

              Originally posted by mockingbird
              Ah, that clears it up, so you have a bolt sitting in between the copper plumbing cap and the iron, and the screw comes in from the inside of the cap... What exactly is the point of the bolt?
              Lol, no I don't think that cleared it up .
              Looks like pictures it is then. My English is getting worse by the moment.
              Last edited by momaka; 07-27-2012, 12:36 AM.

              Comment


                #47
                Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

                I guess a picture really is worth a 1000 words. Here you go mockingbird:
                https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1343546499
                Picture shows the soldering iron, the solder pot (sitting upside down), and my crusty but wonderful iron tip (it may be carved in and dirty, but it works great).
                Attached Files

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                  #48
                  Re: Video - quick capacitor replacement using liquidized lead

                  nice system through,


                  haha, but i still think that i will try to make something like yours to try it out

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