Can you share which pogo-pins you used? I'm thinking about getting rid of the Bios password on my Elitebook 645 G9, even though I only have a CH341a.
Don't really want to desolder the chips and my hot air station needs a new heating element anyway :-)
loopster
Senior Member
Last Activity: 06-10-2026, 05:11 PM
Joined: 09-23-2020
Location: Munich
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I've only tried it once on the Probook 640 G1, and it definitely works on this model. Piece of cake....Leave a comment:
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No need to dump the bios. On this model the password can actually be reset with a little trick.
Just follw the guy in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kc4lIC-EsaE
He does it on an 820 G1, but this also works on the 640 G1. I' ve tried it myself and was successful....Leave a comment:
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Thanks everyone for their input. Removed and replaced the faulty driver, fixed the coil, and thankfully the CPU has survived.
System is up and running again :-)Leave a comment:
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Found some time to replace the inductor, connected the power supply, blew up again right away.
Injected limited 0.9V / 1.5A into this line (it's the 19V rail) and checked with some isoprop.
The CPU driver after this coil is definitely shorted. Doesn't mean the CPU is good though.
This driver chip has KdENB as its marking.
Anyone knows what that is? Is it sy8388rhc?Leave a comment:
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645 G9 with Ryzen 5 PRO 5675U | Resistance to ground of CPU?
Hello everyone, I have a 645 G9 here with a Ryzen 5 PRO 5675U.
This board has a blown inductor component above the driver chip to the CPU coil, and I am wondering whether the CPU is shorted/dead.
Could anyone please measure the resistance to ground on the leftmost coil/inductor to the CPU?
My resistance value is 2.2 Ohms, which doesn't look good to me.
Thanks to everyone willing to give a value.​ -
Slightly off topic, I have a 645 G9 here with Ryzen 5 PRO 5675U​.
Could anyone please measure the resistance to ground on the leftmost coil/inductor to the CPU.
Mine is 2.2 Ohms, which doesn't look good to me 😢
I have one which has a blown inductor component above the driver chip to this coil, and I am wondering whether the CPU is shorted/dead.
Thanks to everyone willing to give a value....Leave a comment:
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From a spare board I have and boardview, it looks like TPS51219...
Leave a comment:
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Have you ruled out faulty ram (running a memtest, maybe try only one ram module at a time) or faulty mass storage (hdd, ssd)? What about testing with a linux live os, or installing a linux os?...Leave a comment:
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Quite likely that the GPU is dying a slow and ugly death due to bad solder joints.
In this case there would be nothing you can doLeave a comment:
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Very likely a corrupt Bios. These machines were notorious for bricked Bioses. Try a Bios recovery USB (google, FN+Esc), or
desolder the chip and reflash with ch341a, for example. Fixed a few similar ones.
Maybe I can find the correct Bios.rom version somewhere on one of my machines which works 100% for recovery (not all do).Leave a comment:
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I don't know whether I understood the whole complex correctly, I just skimmed everything, but you mentioned that "it has soldered ram" in post #5.
Have you considered the possiblity that your onboard ram has gone faulty by sheer coincidence, and that prevents the laptop from working, irrespective of the bios flash issue?Leave a comment:
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Yes, mine has 25L12873F 8-SOPLeave a comment:
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One is the EC Bios chip, the other one is for the main Bios, which is the one to be "treated".
Can't try, don't have any, although I've got many hp machines :-)Leave a comment:
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Go for it, it works. I just tried it on a Probook 640 G1 I am not using very much, and it does indeed clear the Bios password.
I needed two attempts to pinch the 7 and 8 pins correctly with my tweezers, other than that, it is as straightforward as in the video. The chip doesn't seem to mind if you don't get it right the first time :-)Leave a comment:
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How about giving Windows 10 a try (or maybe even a Linux distro) to rule out any weird OS related incompatibility issues?...Leave a comment:
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Nobody got any experience dropping a Bios from a working motherboard into another one?
Are there any secondary checks with the existing hardware involved?
How would I go about this, dump the Bios from the working one, clean the ME region, and flash it onto the non-working board?...Leave a comment:
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Nope, that's not the problem either. My other Zbook 17 also has 2.4 on this line.
Can I just dump the Bios from the working one, and also drop it into the other, and it'll work,
or is that not advisable? Could someone repair my original dump, ME region cleaning alone does not fix it....Leave a comment:
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My problem does not seem to be bios or ME region related after all. After flashing a few main Bios and EC bios versions,
I checked the power button and the zif socket for the powerboard flat ribbon cable (with the PB disconnected), and I only have 2.5V on that 3.3V line.
Nevertheless, the laptop always powers on, but with the symptoms described above.
I do have stable 3.3V on the Bios chip,so 3.3V must be healthy in general, but something seems to drag it down on the PB line.
That's going to be fun, hunting for this stupid fault 😒Leave a comment:
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