I recently inherited a 40" Samsung LCD that would power cycle on a cold start with signal present...green vertical lines, loud static or screeching, then restart. Picture gradually improved on each cycle until stable.
I'd assumed bad caps on power board, but they looked fine.
Found numerous posts here implicating C102 and C131 on the BN94-02079A main board. I ordered replacement SMD tantalum caps (47uF, 10v...) from Digikey. No tools or experience for SMD soldering, so I had a local repair tech do it. Guy only had a cheap iron like mine, no tweezer iron or hot air station-- the solder job was rough & makeshift, if solid, and C131 actually got put on backward until I pointed out the correct polarity, so I might have done as well on my own, and saved the cash. (I'd also bought the voltage regulator IC next to C102, but was hesitant to have him tackle the more complex component without proper tools.) But the TV works perfectly now with just the two caps.
I don't suppose this post adds much, but I know some folks on the threads that helped me are keeping tabs on these repairs, so I thought I'd share.
I'd assumed bad caps on power board, but they looked fine.
Found numerous posts here implicating C102 and C131 on the BN94-02079A main board. I ordered replacement SMD tantalum caps (47uF, 10v...) from Digikey. No tools or experience for SMD soldering, so I had a local repair tech do it. Guy only had a cheap iron like mine, no tweezer iron or hot air station-- the solder job was rough & makeshift, if solid, and C131 actually got put on backward until I pointed out the correct polarity, so I might have done as well on my own, and saved the cash. (I'd also bought the voltage regulator IC next to C102, but was hesitant to have him tackle the more complex component without proper tools.) But the TV works perfectly now with just the two caps.
I don't suppose this post adds much, but I know some folks on the threads that helped me are keeping tabs on these repairs, so I thought I'd share.