A little update: I've received the repair kit from the UK. I replaced all 6 blow MOSFETs and 1 diode (DAF30A) which showed a significant difference in Vdrop with the new one.
I tested all combinations of legs for the 2 small SMD components (Q5xx and IC701), they were similar between previous and new ones, so i decided to give it a go. The TV works like a charm!
A little update: I've received the repair kit from the UK. I replaced all 6 blow MOSFETs and 1 diode (DAF30A) which showed a significant difference in Vdrop with the new one.
I tested all combinations of legs for the 2 small SMD components (Q5xx and IC701), they were similar between previous and new ones, so i decided to give it a go. The TV works like a charm!
Thansk for your help, especially tw2005 ;-)
oh, lovely, did you check out the screws? Do they have washers and spring washers?
oh, lovely, did you check out the screws? Do they have washers and spring washers?
There were no screws in the kit (but I knew that prior to buying it). I did not have any washers at disposal but I'll probably add some soon. What i did is add some threadlock before mounting all screws back. I'll probably add washers in a near future and put some threadlock again.
Anyway, it's working, at a fairly low cost, and I've also got the new board I found at a good price, waiting in a drawer. So I'm prepared for (nearly) anything :-)
There were no screws in the kit (but I knew that prior to buying it). I did not have any washers at disposal but I'll probably add some soon. What i did is add some threadlock before mounting all screws back. I'll probably add washers in a near future and put some threadlock again.
Anyway, it's working, at a fairly low cost, and I've also got the new board I found at a good price, waiting in a drawer. So I'm prepared for (nearly) anything :-)
yeah, I think if you get the chance to get hold of the correct screws with washers and spring washers could be handy, no flat washer reduces surface contact with those pads.
I'm getting mixed up with you and tehe other poster with the kits , thought you got the screws too.
don't know, 2.6K would be correct as the 78M05 regulator has that resistance which ids the 5v supply and I suspect you are on the wrong pin on the other board? If it's working fine, forget about it.
Ok, i buy a repair kit for my SC board. Il will wait for the SD board.
I hope that i will not scrap my repaired sc board when i will plug it.
I dont know if a defect sc board can cause a horizontal bar but not scrap the SD.
I will return to you when i Will receive my pieces ans fix the sc
Ok, i buy a repair kit for my SC board. Il will wait for the SD board.
I hope that i will not scrap my repaired sc board when i will plug it.
I dont know if a defect sc board can cause a horizontal bar but not scrap the SD.
I will return to you when i Will receive my pieces ans fix the sc
Thanks
So long as there are no shorts on the input side and no shorts between the output pins and Vfg it won't. You can always leave the SD/SU off and jumper SC50 on the Sc and fire it up for testing. If it starts with no error blinks then the Sc is good. If the worst happened after hooking up the buffer at least you knew the Sc was good.
If you still have a defect on the lower buffer then you may have to look into it then.
Finally i change 3 30f131 and 3 rpj30h2a. Unplug the SD and SU board and jump sc50.
Start TV and grenn Light and fan run. Reconnect the SD and SU, and boom! Perfect picture, no more 7 blinking red light and no horizontal bar in the low part of the Tv on startup.
New member here with 2011 TC-P50GT30 and 7 blinks.
Thanks to all the info here I have confirmed that the SC board is bad with all the 6 transistors shorted out. Q531 read open between the legs as listed by tw2005 with my meter on 20M range, but I have short on the two outside ones (the side with 3 legs). I am assuming it is bad??? IC724 looks good. Since I need to fix my TV quick I have ordered new board, but still may try to fix my original one, possibly for future use since the kits are still available.
Please let me know if I am missing anything else to check.
Hi,
I did not test Q531 the way you described (I just did mine as tw2005 suggested). You can always check on the one you'll get with th repair kit if it reads shorted between the legs you describe. If it doesn't, assume the one on your board is fried. If it does, well, it's just like yours on the board, so it's probably normal.
A good indicator of correct repair is that there is no short anymore between both input pins (SC20)
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