Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

[Thermaltake]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

Sorry I didn't notice you were talking about the primary capacitor before. Even with crappy brands like CapXon, those usually last for much longer, and cost more so it's only sensible to replace them if you know they're bad.

If you want to swap it out with a new one to test and see then go ahead, but it's probably not the problem.


Your problem is likely caused by that evil brown glue which has gone conductive and created a short between CM801 and RM801.

It looks like RM801 resistor feeds QM801 and QM802, possibly they have been damaged. Have you checked them?

Yeah, I told that to my friend already to remove all the glue on the board and to replace that QM802, RM801 was already replaced but after that tv still wasn't working. I will see tomorrow when I connect PSU and turn on tv will it work or not.


One more question

I also have Samsung T220 monitor on my PC, does he have a lot of that glue on his PSU too ? I opened him few months ago but I forgot if there was glue or not on capacitors and other components.

[Agent24]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

So I was right.

And would new capacitor (let's say rubycon or elko 150uf 450v same rate as capxon on supply) make some problems ?

Sorry I didn't notice you were talking about the primary capacitor before. Even with crappy brands like CapXon, those usually last for much longer, and cost more so it's only sensible to replace them if you know they're bad.

If you want to swap it out with a new one to test and see then go ahead, but it's probably not the problem.


Your problem is likely caused by that evil brown glue which has gone conductive and created a short between CM801 and RM801.

It looks like RM801 resistor feeds QM801 and QM802, possibly they have been damaged. Have you checked them?

[Thermaltake]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

I replace CapXon always, good or not. They really are one of the worst brands at the moment. If it hasn't failed yet, it probably will soon.

So I was right.

And would new capacitor (let's say rubycon or elko 150uf 450v same rate as capxon on supply) make some problems ?

[Agent24]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

I replace CapXon always, good or not. They really are one of the worst brands at the moment. If it hasn't failed yet, it probably will soon.

[Thermaltake]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

One more question I forget to put up there is, what do you think about that capxon capacitor ? In practice I found out that they are so crappy on every motherboard that I got for repair I found 2-3 capxon bulged capacitors, others not so much. Is it worth changing him for some different one even if he is still working normally ? Will it be problem for other components on the supply board to work with him or will it have any interruptions becouse he is different brand but same rate.

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

So I can confirm today about my idea. The error will be outside the power board. Today I have another BN44-00155A. It's the same with her... I have 3 power board. 1.BN44-00155A 2.BN44-00157A 3.BN44-00155A. Put on card 1. (my old repair power board.) TV start after 5minutes. I will leave to play 5 minutes. Turn off the power cord. Quickly exchange it for a card 2. (157A). I turn on the TV and immediately plays. I will leave to play 5 minutes. Turn off the power cord. Quickly exchange it for a card3. ("new" 155A). I turn on the TV and immediately plays. I will leave to play 5 minutes. I turn TV to standby, after 15minuts TV not start and wait 5minuts to start playng again. And I can repeat it all with the same result. Due to the previous measurement. I suppose something cold start drawing too much current. Can be a problem on the main TV card? Referring to the temperature dependence of the cold start I would have guessed for a capacitor. I have a good idea? Or is it stupidity? DaTT.

[Thermaltake]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

Almost same story as DaTT's I have Samsung LE32S86BD and supply board is BN44-00155A Rev. 1.1 and RM801 blow up and there was no power no red light on TV, when I replaced RM801 capacitor with new one there was red light again I was so happy that I fix it, but disappointment when I want to turn On tv, becouse he wasn't turning on red light blinks few times like he is turning on but nothing no picture no sound, I read most of this thread becouse I am limited by my time, but I saw few interesting thing and look at it, and this capacitor that is near RM801 that is CM810 is kind of funny down on his legs that goes in board plus he is glued.

Here are some pictures so everyone can visualised the situation:

blown capacitor RM801


replaced capacitor RM801


funny looking CM810

front

back


Should I replace him too ? Does he look damaged or ?

other pictures of supply board[/IMG]

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

Today I tried to board BN44-00157A. I interject 12V and 13V. I made for the new connection cable between the power and the base plate. I hear the Power board starting pulse. So I connect the original connecting cable - TV starts immediately but only colored beads, and after a few seconds, turn off and on again with colorful beads. And so on. I give then again BN44-00155A. TV start after 5 minutes (today's heat abou 33°C, the greater the heat sooner TV starts ...) I leave the TV play about 30 minutes. Swap the power plate to BN44-00157A. TV and start playing immediately! I let the TV play again for about 30 minutes. I leave to cool for about 20 minutes TV. I turn on the TV again just colored grains and switching on and off, over and over again. Does anyone have an idea what's on my plate 155A bad? Or how to modify the board 157A to her TV playing? Thank you for your time. DaTT.

Edit: The problem may be on the main board? Again, a capacitor?

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

I would concentrate on the the filter caps for the VCC of those IC all the way to the rectifier diode that generates the Voltage.
ESR of the cap goes down when hot, and goes up when cold.
Did you replace the caps on the board as a set? I would do the replacement as a set using good quality LOW ESR, 105c temp rating such as PANASONIC FM/FC/FR series.

Hello, I replaced all the electrolytes . On that particular part (number) should I look? Somehow rolled or ceramic capacitors ? Thank you. DaTT

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

This board is not compatible, you can use as replacements for your BN44-00155 any BN44-00156, BN44-00191, and BN44-00192 with any A/B prefix

Hello, Where is the other differences ? It is not enough Remakes involved in wire connector 12V and 13V ? Thank you DaTT

[flocko]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

This board is not compatible, you can use as replacements for your BN44-00155 any BN44-00156, BN44-00191, and BN44-00192 with any A/B prefix

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

I managed to buy BN44-00157A that is on the Internet referred to as compatible with BN44-00155A. I joined her, and the TV comes on immediately after pressing the power button. Instead of the image appear as if analogue grain. And the TV after a few seconds switches to standby. So I looked carefully at the connectors. For BN155 connector CNW801 and at BN157 is CNM801. Furthermore, BN155 has written 5,4V and board BN157 has 5,3V ... CNW has 3x12V and 2x13V. CNM has 2x12V and 3x13V. And they are swapped. So just these pins (12V and 13V) to rewire the cable or the board BN157 completely incompatible? Or is this board too bad? Thank You. DaTT.

[budm]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

I would concentrate on the the filter caps for the VCC of those IC all the way to the rectifier diode that generates the Voltage.
ESR of the cap goes down when hot, and goes up when cold.
Did you replace the caps on the board as a set? I would do the replacement as a set using good quality LOW ESR, 105c temp rating such as PANASONIC FM/FC/FR series.

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

Today I tried to measure the voltage is switched on TV and in STANDBY. So the supply voltage at ICP801S 15,3V (0V standby) on ICB801S 18,1V (20,9V standby) on CB806 20,8V (35,2V standby). If the TV starts (usually about 15 minutes) voltage fluctuates. ICP801S 0-15,1V. ICB801S 18,6-19,1V. CB806 21,7-32,1V. If the room temperature is higher TV starts faster. (28°C-10min). If it starts slowly lower (13°C-65min). Although I do not understand but I suspect that it will do component that cools when not working as it should. What should I focus on? Thank you for your time. DaTT.

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

" CP803 387V" so when you hit the TV power switch, the DCV reading on cap CP803 is steady at 387VDC then?
You post 120 you indicated this: " Voltage on it slowly rises up to 330VDC and the TV is turned on." so now you are getting 387V? I am confused as to what you are really getting.

Yes, I changed CP801 and CY801, CY802 (those two were the glue). When I press the Start button on the CP803 voltage pulses from 355 to 387VDC. After about 15 minutes tv starts, and then the voltage is 387VDC. So little time is decreased and increased volts on CP803. But TV is still unable to start immediately. DaTT.

[budm]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

" CP803 387V" so when you hit the TV power switch, the DCV reading on cap CP803 is steady at 387VDC then?
You post 120 you indicated this: " Voltage on it slowly rises up to 330VDC and the TV is turned on." so now you are getting 387V? I am confused as to what you are really getting.

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

If you look at the schematic, you need to start checking the Voltage in the PFC section, check to see if the PFC IC is getting VCC to run, etc.

Today I measured voltage. When connect only 230VAC, voltage on ICB801S is 10,7V and on ICP801S is 0V and on CP803 333V. When starting - on ICB pulse 18.6 to 19.1V and on ICP pulse 0 to 15,1V. After starting the TV - on ICB 19V and on ICP 15V and on CP803 387V. So the problem is in the ICP power? What I can also inspect? Please advice again. Thank you. DaTT.

[budm]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

If you look at the schematic, you need to start checking the Voltage in the PFC section, check to see if the PFC IC is getting VCC to run, etc.

[DaTT]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

The PFC Voltage booster is not working, the DCV on the main filter cap should be >360vdc when power switch is activated. Did you check the capaictance and the ESR of the main filter cap yet?

I took CP803, so I looked at him. Something flew in it. As if he was inside another slightly smaller capacitor, so I changed it for sure. Voltage on it slowly rises up to 330VDC and the TV is turned on. (after about 17 minutes) So it's the same. Voltage on it by the label on the PCB should be 385V. Something prevents him ascend to this voltage. Where is the fault? Thank you for your time. DaTT.

[budm]

Re: Samsung LE32R88BD/ BN44-00155A

The PFC Voltage booster is not working, the DCV on the main filter cap should be >360vdc when power switch is activated. Did you check the capaictance and the ESR of the main filter cap yet?