Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

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  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    I would recommend that you replace all capacitors that are 100uf and lower unless you have a ESR capacitor tester and if you can compare to a new one is even better

    If you decide to buy a new switching power supply for this device I would still recommend that you recap this this switching power supply if it has non brand name capacitor manufacturers
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 03-09-2022, 08:04 PM.

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  • rivera2j
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...68eeffd6e6fd-0

    Leave a comment:


  • rivera2j
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Hi. I am new to this. Obviously i have the same problem as many of you have with this board ("c-110-cd"). I've seen a number of boards that looks like they can do the same as this one ("c-110-cd") Has anybody replaced the ("c-110-cd") with a FX-102?

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Originally posted by ajsterr4
    I'd like to do it on a table, why would labeling wires help me?
    The reason for doing this is IF you have a bunch of wires that are the same exact color or IF you have connectors have the same profile

    How will you know which wire OR which connector went where

    If you hook wires or connectors in the wrong place at a minimum nothing will happen or the hole board could go up in flames or blow fuse or circuit breaker

    This is the reason for labeling wires or connectors and take pictures

    I hope this helps you understand why I made this comment before

    I do this most of the time when I work on board unless the board is marked with the wire number or jumper number and even then I will take pictures of the board any way
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-03-2019, 06:20 PM.

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  • redwire
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    It's so you can take out the board and put it back in, without screwing up the connectors. Did you notice four are all the same 2-pin connector and can get mixed up!
    I use a felt pen and put a stripe or dot (or two), or you can use masking tape etc to label the wires - CN1 (connector 1) etc. FAN, TEMP SENSOR, LEDs, PELTIER module etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Originally posted by Retro-Hipster
    EDIT: Ah crap... I missed the second page of this and responded to an old message. LOL Well, next time I'll read..
    -------

    AH.. Please be safe when doing all of this sir. ^.^; AC likes to kill people because it let's current flow through you in ways that DC doesn't. Also, 120v power will charge up capacitors up to 170v, so you can get a heck of a kick off them even after things are unplugged.

    First off sir, could I suggest watching this video for information on all the types of basic discreet components? I think it will help you a lot! You don't have to, but it will help you understand what it is that you are doing when we ask you to check something.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Maq5IyHSuc

    As for redwires comment, he is talking about the power transistor there with the heat sink on it. A diode is like a 1 way check valve for electricity. It let's power flow in one direction. He is saying that some Transistors have a diode in them (this is called a body diode). This is to protect the transistor from things like switching of transformers.

    On a transistor, you have 3 pins. Collector, Base, and Emitter. He is saying that there might be a one way check valve from the Collector Pin to Emitter. This doesn't normally conduct from Collector to Emitter, but instead conducts from emitter to collector. (Reverse polarity) He mentioned this because testing transistors means checking to see if power flows from one pin to another using your multimeter. You can run into issues if you don't know what to look for/might diagnose the problem wrong.


    I think Redwire is pointing to something being wrong with the "Snubber network". When power going to a big inductor like a Transformer is suddenly cut off, the voltage jumps through the roof(as in, hundreds of volts). A snubber network absorbs this spike to protect the Transistor. (The body diode is also useful in this.) If there is something wrong with your snubber network (burnt up looking) then it means that it might not be doing it's job. That could have killed the Transistor.
    Alright will someone answer me once and for all how can I do this and not get killed? I have to test alot of components and would like to do so with the power unplugged, or rather if it needs to be powered then how can I do it safely?

    So far I need to table top the board and check t5,t6,t7 transistors, resistors on the snubber network, (pretty sure rectifier is bad 0 reading) and I guess while I'm at it check the secondary side capacitors.

    I'd like to do it on a table, why would labeling wires help me?

    Leave a comment:


  • Retro-Hipster
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    EDIT: Ah crap... I missed the second page of this and responded to an old message. LOL Well, next time I'll read..
    -------

    AH.. Please be safe when doing all of this sir. ^.^; AC likes to kill people because it let's current flow through you in ways that DC doesn't. Also, 120v power will charge up capacitors up to 170v, so you can get a heck of a kick off them even after things are unplugged.

    First off sir, could I suggest watching this video for information on all the types of basic discreet components? I think it will help you a lot! You don't have to, but it will help you understand what it is that you are doing when we ask you to check something.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Maq5IyHSuc

    As for redwires comment, he is talking about the power transistor there with the heat sink on it. A diode is like a 1 way check valve for electricity. It let's power flow in one direction. He is saying that some Transistors have a diode in them (this is called a body diode). This is to protect the transistor from things like switching of transformers.

    On a transistor, you have 3 pins. Collector, Base, and Emitter. He is saying that there might be a one way check valve from the Collector Pin to Emitter. This doesn't normally conduct from Collector to Emitter, but instead conducts from emitter to collector. (Reverse polarity) He mentioned this because testing transistors means checking to see if power flows from one pin to another using your multimeter. You can run into issues if you don't know what to look for/might diagnose the problem wrong.


    I think Redwire is pointing to something being wrong with the "Snubber network". When power going to a big inductor like a Transformer is suddenly cut off, the voltage jumps through the roof(as in, hundreds of volts). A snubber network absorbs this spike to protect the Transistor. (The body diode is also useful in this.) If there is something wrong with your snubber network (burnt up looking) then it means that it might not be doing it's job. That could have killed the Transistor.
    Last edited by Retro-Hipster; 12-01-2019, 06:01 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • CapLeaker
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    We kinda knew that the rectifier is ok, because as you know the fuse would be blown. Before you put the fuse back in, check the rectifier with the psu unplugged, DMM in diode mode. 0.7 voltage drop is ok, if it is a short, it’s bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • petehall347
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    replace fuse and also now check rectifier diodes in case one went shorted after the spark .

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    I'm pretty sure I'm not getting a reading at all at the rectifier. Also fuse on the power board is blown after the spark incident.

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Originally posted by petehall347
    meter is set for dc volts .you said you were measuring ac volts . you really want to be measuring the dc volts at the large capacitor . or dc out on rectifier which is same thing .
    Which large capacitor? Both?

    Btw I plug in unit and theres no lights and no button to power on but I imagine its "powered on" in circuit. I'll test it in DC this way.

    Leave a comment:


  • petehall347
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    meter is set for dc volts .you said you were measuring ac volts . you really want to be measuring the dc volts at the large capacitor . or dc out on rectifier which is same thing .

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Still works.. reading a 3v cell @ 3.12 volts

    Leave a comment:


  • petehall347
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    test your meter with known good voltage source such as a cell battery .

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    I checked before spark with correct meter setup with no reading

    Leave a comment:


  • petehall347
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    your meter is set up wrong .no wonder there was sparking .put red into volt ohms .black to common .
    p.s fuse in the meter might be blown now plus maybe more damage to it .

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Originally posted by Per Hansson
    In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
    Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
    Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
    I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

    Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.
    I checked the rectifier ac voltage and it sparked twice... should my multimeter be the other way? Spot looks burnt now

    I tried multimeter with red in the other slot and it didnt spark, no reading or rather went from ~50 to 0 quickly.

    Fuse looks good
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Originally posted by Per Hansson
    In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
    Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
    Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
    I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

    Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.
    So, picture 2 is the same as pic 1 just front/back . I should check voltage? I understand its dangerous. How can I be safe? Gloves?

    Leave a comment:


  • ajsterr4
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    Originally posted by sam_sam_sam
    One thing you should do before you start

    Mark every wire that is hook to this board with a label machine so you can work on a table with it

    Even if you decided to take all of the component units out of the wine cooler still mark all wires on the board so that if you have to remove a wire to do testing you know where it went

    This is what I do when I have to work on a board that has that many connection and I also take pictures of the board with the labels on it
    I'm not 100% here, mark every wire how? Should I mark the connector it went in too? If I take a wire out how would I put it back in?

    I would like to work on a table with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

    One thing you should do before you start

    Mark every wire that is hook to this board with a label machine so you can work on a table with it

    Even if you decided to take all of the component units out of the wine cooler still mark all wires on the board so that if you have to remove a wire to do testing you know where it went

    This is what I do when I have to work on a board that has that many connection and I also take pictures of the board with the labels on it
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-01-2019, 06:09 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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