Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
If you plugged light bulb on that without NTC, that's pretty easy method how to blow rectifier.
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EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
If you can, post a very detailed picture of the solder side of the unit as it is now. Look for any solder bridges that shouldn't be there, particularly between the giant trace that carries the 12V, and the enormous trace that is the negative.
By that I mean if two leads on the bottom side are connected, but it doesn't look like there is a trace connecting them or a wire/jumper on the top side connecting them, try and remove that bridge.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by 370forlife View PostMajor surgery required with a unit this high wattage. From your pics earlier in the thread it looks like there is at least 8 TO-247 rectifiers and at least two heatsink mounts that will need to be unsoldered. If you have a good iron and some solder wick/solder sucker, it shouldn't be too hard but might be time consuming.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Major surgery required with a unit this high wattage. From your pics earlier in the thread it looks like there is at least 8 TO-247 rectifiers and at least two heatsink mounts that will need to be unsoldered. If you have a good iron and some solder wick/solder sucker, it shouldn't be too hard but might be time consuming.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by Philly Cheese Steak View PostOK,
I checked for continuity across the leads orange and red give a short beep that goes to open, and the yellow gives a perm. continuity? Does that check out OK?
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
There's usually little difference between +3,3 and +5 V if it uses magamp which seems to be the case. It tends to show low value under such circuimstances, if it is 5-6+, it is OK. However, if +12 V is open, than it may indicate blown rectifier.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
OK,
I checked for continuity across the leads orange and red give a short beep that goes to open, and the yellow gives a perm. continuity? Does that check out OK?
On low ohms test(red) starts like 2.2 and goes to zero. Yellow, starts at 2.8 goes to zero and orange, 2.8 and goes to zero. Is this good? Using a radio snack MM I can break out my fluke wanna be?
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
After checking for voltage on all output leads with your meter, now set it to "low ohms" or "continuity."
Clip the black lead of your meter to the case of the PS. Now, take the red lead, and probe the red, orange and yellow leads from the PS. If any rectifiers are shorted, you'll get a beep or unusually low measurement. Be aware, a reading of several tens to several hundreds of ohms may just be load resistors or part of the feedback divider to the error amp(s).
Make sure you use the resistance range, not diode check!
Diode check sets up a current source in the meter, while measuring the voltage across the test leads (device under test). If you were checking diodes or transistors, the reading would be the "junction drop." However, you are looking for -shorted- diodes. For bad rectifiers, a simpler/less confusing test is more foolproof...
I've never had shorted diodes that didn't show up on a cont check. I did have a few leaky shottkeys that gave different junction drops on diode check, but had to remove them. You cannot measure this in ckt because of the transformer secondary. Incidentally, this is why you can quickly check for shorted rectifiers without even opening the PS up. A shorted diode will "complete" the circuit from the output and red meter lead, through the TX secondary, to GND/common, back to the black meter lead.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Diode tester, if your MM is equipped with that.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by 370forlife View PostYup, thats what he means. All the grounds go to the same place, so you can use any ground (molex usually works best as most multimeter leads fit quite well inside the pins) and then probe the different rails. It looks like your power supply follows standard conventions pretty well, and 3.3V is orange, 5V is red and 12V is yellow.
I'll post up tomorrow,
Do you have digital multimeter with diode tester? Can you verify output rectifiers are not blown up with that (while having PSU disconnected from power for a while)? Just put it between ground and every voltage rail and see if it beeps, and when it does, what values it shows.
THANKS GUYS!
Sorry for not posting back sooner just been busy with life
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by Philly Cheese Steak View PostSure,
just not sure what the outut rectifier's look like? So the rails, you mean going to the cables that feed the board right?
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View PostLooks like the transformer has a '00 date code, lol.
I know I aint the sharpest tool, but I am trying to learn....... And being polite about it
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by RJARRRPCGP View PostLooks like the transformer has a '00 date code, lol.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Looks like the transformer has a '00 date code, lol.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by Behemot View PostDo you have digital multimeter with diode tester? Can you verify output rectifiers are not blown up with that (while having PSU disconnected from power for a while)? Just put it between ground and every voltage rail and see if it beeps, and when it does, what values it shows.
just not sure what the outut rectifier's look like? So the rails, you mean going to the cables that feed the board right?
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Do you have digital multimeter with diode tester? Can you verify output rectifiers are not blown up with that (while having PSU disconnected from power for a while)? Just put it between ground and every voltage rail and see if it beeps, and when it does, what values it shows.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by Behemot View PostBy goop you mean some glue? If it is soem of the yellow stuff, I'd clean it, it often burns to be conductive, if it's the white silicone or hot glue, it should be OK.
Is the board OK? May be board burned, triggering PSU's short protection. I have also seen several boards with burned startup circuits, shortening green pin with wire externally made them work normally.
I'm just a lil miffed as what to try from here............
The reset button on the back of the PSU lights up, and it will shut off if I switch it. But that's as far as it goes? Totally open to suggestions, I started to open it back up but I have other projects going on. Another PSU which is brand new and burnt and a Z77 thunderbolt, I posted it here too.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27685
Thanks Behemot!!!!!!
Please keep the ideals commin!
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
By goop you mean some glue? If it is soem of the yellow stuff, I'd clean it, it often burns to be conductive, if it's the white silicone or hot glue, it should be OK.
Is the board OK? May be board burned, triggering PSU's short protection. I have also seen several boards with burned startup circuits, shortening green pin with wire externally made them work normally.
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Re: EnerMax Galaxy 1000Watt DxX
Originally posted by shovenose View PostGlad to hear it worked. Funny thing is I replied to this thread last on 3/20/12 it's 3/20/13 today.
Well I thought it was OK but when I hooked up a motherboard I got nothing out of it? Checked the fuse its good, so I'm a little stumped right now.......
I did notice that goop on the pins under one of the Coils(its a big round thing with wired wound around the big round thing) lol, and under its base there is a tone of that goop where the pins go through to the mainboard?
When I had it hooked up to my motherboard and nothing happened I disconnected it fast as I didn't wanna see it go boom, but nothing happened.........
On a side note, I need a pigtail 15A 250V fuse couldnt find one at digikey? I'm not sure why but that site hates me, could someone post a link for the fuse?
Thank you all!!Last edited by Philly Cheese Steak; 04-05-2013, 03:54 PM.
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