ASUS ROG STRIX Z690-F DEAD

[beogeek]

Hi Folks,

I have an ASUS ROG STRIX Z690-F that has a shorted and dead NUVOTON NTC6798D EC IC and a NUVOTON 3961AF, which appears to be the FAN driver for a chassis fan. I can source the EC and the fan driver, but my question is, will the EC need to be programmed or not? If so, does anyone have the dump for the EC IC and BIOS?

Cheers!

[beogeek]

After further inspection, the PCH is dead, the EC is dead, and so is the FAN driver; it's safe to say, game over for this board!

[DynaxSC]

How did you check all the devices are dead? First remove the Fan driver, then the EC, each time check for shorts. Even if all the devices are dead, still the board can be repaired, most difficult is to replace the pch, but it is possible. EC must not be programmed. After replacing the PCH it might be necessary to program it with a Management Engine, with a specially prepared bios, or in case of Asus the first bios edition might work.

[beogeek]

The FAN controller is visibly damaged, with a hole through it, and is shorted to ground. The SiO chip also has a hole and is shorted to ground. While the PCH appears intact externally, it is also shorted to ground. Injecting 0.5V at 1A reveals, under a thermal camera, that the right side of the die lights up like a Christmas tree. This illuminated area corresponds to the BGA region directly connected to the FAN controller.

Although technically feasible to repair, sourcing replacement components—such as the PCH, SiO, and FAN controller IC—would take considerable time. Additionally, there's uncertainty about whether the SiO requires programming or if it updates automatically via the BIOS.

While a full repair might be achievable, the practical considerations of time and effort make it questionable whether it's worth pursuing in this case. My assessment is that it is not.

[noname2024]

After further inspection, the PCH is dead, the EC is dead, and so is the FAN driver; it's safe to say, game over for this board!

EC KB3724Q D LQFP-64//ENE
program EC is O2U2 FLASH GD25Q20ETIGR//GIGADEVICE 2MBIT SOP-8

[DynaxSC]

This is a quite expensive board, so repairing it still could make economical sense, but only in case you do it yourself. I agree that using external repair shop makes this economical nonsens, but still you can sell it for a rest value price, which is better than throwing it away for waste. There are people out there, who can do it. Your decision.

[beogeek]

Yes I agree, I can do it myself I can source the EC the Fan driver but I can't find a replacement chipset which is the issue. So the board will be used for parts on other repairs.

[beogeek]

If anyone can find a replacement chipset I'm willing to attempt at a repair but I can't find it! I'm looking for a replacement chipset PCH for the ASUS ROG STRIX Z690-F the original chipset has the following markings SRKZZ 01341 X204P442. If anyone knows where I can source it from that would be great!

[beogeek]

I'm going to take a guess it's the FH82Z690? That's the same chipset on the prime z690-A board; I can't find a schematic or boardview for this board, so I'm not 100% sure. I did find a chipset in China, but I don't want to order it if it's the wrong one. Can anyone confirm it is the same chipset?

Link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...Cquery_from%3A

[noname2024]

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[beogeek]

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Mind sharing the Boardview for the STRIX Z690-F? I did find the PRIME Z690-A here but not the STRIX.

[DynaxSC]

The chipset ordering code is FH82Z690 or altenativelly SRKZZ (to be found on the chipset carrier edge), it is possible to buy it on Aliexpress as new or used. Good is to buy aditionally also a reballing stencil, solder balls and a cheap reballing holder. If you will replace the chipset first time you will probably have to try it a few times, as it is not easy to do a correct solder process for the first time. Often the balls under the chipset will get soldered together producing shorts especially on the power supply lines. Also right temperature is crucial, chipsets are sensitive to temperature, its good to put some capton tape on the silicon die to protect from direct heat. The air temperature should not be higher than 360-380 C. Heat better more from the bottom, eg ca 350 C. When taking off old chipset heat it so long, that you are sure all solder balls are liquid. Tip the chipset from the side with a screwdriver to check if it is really loose, before taking it off. Otherwise you will destroy some solder pads on the board.

For soldering new chipset it is important to do something against the thermal deformation of the board when heating the board. The chipset soldering area must be totally flat when soldering new chipset. A very small convexity of the area is good, but a concavity will be fatal. Also when taking off the old chipset, the thermal deformation of the board can rip off chipset solder pads on the board, if deformation will be too strong. Think about some mechanical way to protect the board from deformation. Heating also not too fast.

After exchanging the chipset, if it is factory new, you will need to program it with the Management Engine chipset OS, otherwise the board will work only with limited functionality (eg. no M.2 working). On ASUS boards this works usually with the first Bios version automatically, but on other vendors boards it it is necessary to prepare a specially configured Bios with Intel FIT software.

Replacing the chipset on a board is the most difficult task, even more difficult than replacing the LGA socket. Maybe only replacing smd RAM socket is more difficult.