What are the chances the Pericom IC is still good, because if I would have to replace it, the pins are really tiny, and I'd need a heatgun to remove it, which I don't have, and then I'd have to remove all the caps which I just replaced and then reflow the replacement IC in the oven.
U6 is probably an adjustable regulator. Do as jetadm123 suggested, but measure the voltage on all three pins of each regulator. The tab on each regulator is electrically connected to the center pin.
I can't seem to find anything here that measures mm besides a protractor and the way it's shaped won't allow me to measure the height of them from the board.
If you want, list your original caps + uF + voltage + size + dimension, and your chosen replacements and we can verify for you.
Well that poses a slight problem atm. I can't seem to find anything here that measures mm besides a protractor and the way it's shaped won't allow me to measure the height of them from the board. I'm going to have to remove them first to measure them, but I can tell just from the lead spacing that the small one I found isn't the right one and it's the only one they have at the right uf and voltage in the FC series.
Now that I know I can look in other series for that one though I should be good. Once I get them all out and measured and find a full set to buy I will post everything though. I truly appreciate all of your help so far. The only thing I'm not really so sure about is the operating temp. I know mine say 105c on them but it has a min and max on that digi key site and i don't know how to find the minimum. I don't think the minimum is as important as the max though anyway.
What are the chances the Pericom IC is still good, because if I would have to replace it, the pins are really tiny, and I'd need a heatgun to remove it, which I don't have, and then I'd have to remove all the caps which I just replaced and then reflow the replacement IC in the oven.
The voltage at pin 48 is a problem. Reading the specs on this IC, the MAXIMUM allowable voltage on the IC is 3.6 volts. 5V is high enough to destroy the chip.
What are the chances the Pericom IC is still good, because if I would have to replace it, the pins are really tiny, and I'd need a heatgun to remove it, which I don't have, and then I'd have to remove all the caps which I just replaced and then reflow the replacement IC in the oven.
When the monitor is on and the CFLs are lit:
Pin 1: 0.03
Pin 48: 4.92~4.93
When the CFLs turn off and the screen goes into standby:
Pin 1: 0.01~0.02
Pin 48: 4.94
I have everything plugged in besides the data cable to the LCD panel inverter to take the measurements. Is this sufficient or should I instead plug that in, and attempt to draw a voltage off the CFL connectors while it is running and then test pins 1 and 48? And if so, what's your preferred method of drawing power from CFL connectors witout actual bulbs?
The voltage at pin 48 is a problem. Reading the specs on this IC, the MAXIMUM allowable voltage on the IC is 3.6 volts. 5V is high enough to destroy the chip.
There is no need to have the CCFLs hooked up. This chip must be powered whenever the monitor is plugged into an outlet. Recall, it must be active, and passing signal to the graphics processor even on standby.
I would suggest identifying the source of power for this IC. U6, U7, and U8 are voltage regulators. What are the part numbers of those ICs?
Yeah I did all that, I just wanted to be sure it's aluminum since there were so many capacitor categories to choose from. Is it okay to mix and max different series between the medium and small capacitors? It seems they don't have the FM for the medium sized ones but only FC, and the only FC one they have for the small doesn't match the size of mine...
I will check out the site you mentioned and price it out and if I do go with the ebay kit I will be sure to verify first with the seller the exact ones I will be getting.
mouser.com also has Panasonic FM and FC caps. mouser.com might be cheaper than digikey?
Black probe to ground, check voltages at pin 1 and also pin 48 when monitor is plugged in.
PlainBill
When the monitor is on and the CFLs are lit:
Pin 1: 0.03
Pin 48: 4.92~4.93
When the CFLs turn off and the screen goes into standby:
Pin 1: 0.01~0.02
Pin 48: 4.94
I have everything plugged in besides the data cable to the LCD panel inverter to take the measurements. Is this sufficient or should I instead plug that in, and attempt to draw a voltage off the CFL connectors while it is running and then test pins 1 and 48? And if so, what's your preferred method of drawing power from CFL connectors witout actual bulbs?
Great, thanks again for all your help retiredcaps. The "repair kit" I found is something like $13 and has all 8 of the medium sized capacitors and the small one, but it also doesn't list the exact brand or series that I will be getting. I will check out the site you mentioned and price it out and if I do go with the ebay kit I will be sure to verify first with the seller the exact ones I will be getting. It does state that they don't use capxon, but only Panasonic, Nichicon and Rubycon which are all recommended on the link you gave earlier.
Anyway I'll go ahead and look into the pricing and get it ordered and I'll check back in once it's done and hopefully working properly again.
The original ones are CapXon. Mainly what I'm asking though is that if bad capacitors alone could cause the problems I described in my first post, and if replacing them would fix it.
If I look through my box of bad/bloated capacitors, Capxon is well represented. Many people here call the Crapxon.
Bad caps can cause all sorts of problems. No power, taking multiple times to turn on, taking longer and longer to turn on.
The first monitor I repaired had Capxon caps that went all bad. I replaced them with Rubycon MCZ caps and 8 months later the monitor is still running fine.
Assuming you live in the USA and you are really trying to save every penny, try costing out the capacitors at digikey.com and use USPS first class shipping (around $2.75 USD). Follow PlainBill's instructions on how to choose Panasonic FM caps. If FM is not available, then choose Panasonic FC.
Compare the ebay "kit" or digikey to see which is cheaper. I'm guessing the digikey with shipping will be less than $10 USD.
PS. Replace ALL the electrolytic capacitors except the biggest one, which rarely, but not never, fails. Trying to save 23 cents by not replacing the smallest cap (usually a 22uF 50V cap) can cause you grief later on.
What brand are the original capacitors? Some have a very poor reputation.
The original ones are CapXon. Mainly what I'm asking though is that if bad capacitors alone could cause the problems I described in my first post, and if replacing them would fix it.
Check the power supply voltage(s) for the PI3HDMI412FTBE on pins 1 and 48. (There are many more pins, but those are easily probed - it's a 48 pin IC). The dimple is pin 1.
So 1 probe on pin 1 and one on ground?
One other point - an earlier post mentioned 'fixing the x22wg from the menu'. Make sure the DVI and HDMI inputs are allowed - it seems strange that they wouldn't be, but....
I checked the debug menu and I didn't see anything in relation to this.
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