Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
I tried wiggling the LDVS cable to no avail. Is my panel just done for?
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Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by PlainBill View PostExamination (especially around the leads) and / or replacement of the mains filter cap.
PlainBill
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by hms1018 View PostSorry about the description (may have dyslexia of the eyes. lol). I love your sense of humor, but anyway how would I check to see if either of the above you mentioned are an issue. Thanks for the correction.
PlainBill
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by PlainBill View PostNot a particularly good site. McAfee and AdBlocker Plus both issued warnings and blocked a number of popups, including one triggered by playing the video.
HOWEVER, your video showed four things: You will never be a pilot (the bars were horizontal, not vertical, your description was inadequate, my conclusion was incorrect, and you have (probably 60Hz) hum bars. This MIGHT be a grounding problem, but it is far more likely that the mains filter cap in the monitor's power supply is bad. It doesn't happen often, but it has been known to occur.
PlainBill
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by hms1018 View PostYou are funny, I liked that. Well here it is but it wasn't a bad site:
http://www.zshare.net/video/951840753397964c/
HOWEVER, your video showed four things: You will never be a pilot (the bars were horizontal, not vertical, your description was inadequate, my conclusion was incorrect, and you have (probably 60Hz) hum bars. This MIGHT be a grounding problem, but it is far more likely that the mains filter cap in the monitor's power supply is bad. It doesn't happen often, but it has been known to occur.
PlainBillLast edited by PlainBill; 10-26-2011, 08:07 AM.
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by PlainBill View PostNot many options, and video conversions are one of the many areas in which I lack skills. I'd suggest posting it on one of the sites that allow hosting videos; preferably one that doesn't inundate the unwary with dozens of pop-ups praising the erotic talents of 40 year old 'teenagers'.
PlainBill
http://www.zshare.net/video/951840753397964c/
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by hms1018 View PostI need to use a video so that you can see what I am talking about, but having a problem converting it to something I can use on here. Any ideas would be appreciated. It's current state is AVI.
PlainBill
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by hms1018 View PostI will set it up so you can see it in a few. Thanks for responding.
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by PlainBill View PostWithout a picture it's hard to make an informed evaluation, but it certainly sounds like a bad bond between the LCD panel and the flex conductor from the panel board. IF that is the case, it's unrepairable.
PlainBill
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by hms1018 View PostIs anyone out there to help me out with this other problem?
PlainBill
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by hms1018 View PostOkay, now I fixed it in June and now I have vertical colored lines running up the monitor(looks like an OLD tv) and its is flickering, what could now be the problem?
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
UPDATE....
Did some reading and found that 35v was fine. Monitor works like a camp now. Thanks for all your posts and help.
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
The solder has to melt first before the lead mixes to adjust the melting point.
An iron against solid solder conducts heat poorly so very little heat goes into the joint. Once a small part liquifies it attaches and wraps around the iron tip which greatly increases heat conduction. The stored heat in the tip quickly rushes into the joint and melts the rest.
Using lead solder with a low wattage makes the initial melt easy. Once mixed the joint is easy to melt from then on.
Flux helps too.
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
When you apply a little lead to tin solder, you convert "lead-free" to leaded. It's not the precise mix, but the way metallurgy works, a little bit of a foreign metal can drastically change the properties of the main metal. So solder a little rosin core 60/40 into it and it will then flow.
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Originally posted by percocetpengy View PostHi guys, I'm trying to fix this monitor after 7 years of faithful service.
I have the problem shown in the original post of bumped caps.
I've tried desoldering the caps, but the solder just wont flow, I guess I'm not used to this type of solder, as I've only used Tin based solder.
Can anyone confirm that this is lead based solder?
If so what suggestions do you have for me to remove the caps?
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Hi guys, I'm trying to fix this monitor after 7 years of faithful service.
I have the problem shown in the original post of bumped caps.
I've tried desoldering the caps, but the solder just wont flow, I guess I'm not used to this type of solder, as I've only used Tin based solder.
Can anyone confirm that this is lead based solder?
If so what suggestions do you have for me to remove the caps?
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Okay, now I fixed it in June and now I have vertical colored lines running up the monitor(looks like an OLD tv) and its is flickering, what could now be the problem?
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Re: Sceptre x22wg-Gamer 22" LCD
Connector CN501
1,2,3 5v
4,5,6 Ground
7 CCFL control
8 CCFL control
9,10 12v
U1: Beyond Innovation BI3101A Technology dual PWM CCFL Controller
U220: System General SG6841SZ PWM C114:160v/320v -> Q100 -> T100 -> D660:12v, D550:5v
Q100: Fuji 2SK3502 N-MOSFET
C114: Taicon AQ 100uf 400v WV=160v/320v 13x31
C210: CapXon GL 33uf 35v 5x10
U300: Sharp PC817 Optoisolator
U310: KIA431A Shunt Regulator
C1, C661: Taicon HF 1000uf 16v 10x20
F550: Fuse 5A 250v
D660: ST STPS20H100CT dual diode 100V power Schottky rectifier
D550: ST STPS2045CT dual diode 45V power Schottky rectifier
ZD661: 1N4??? Zener Diode
D114: ?N539? Diode
D220: Taiwan Semiconductor FR1? Diode
Q12A, Q11A, Q12B, Q11B: Hi-Sincerity HSD965 Transistor
T1A, T1B: SPI 8TC00291 CCFL Transformer
L1A, L1B: 8LR7020 Inductor
D1A, D1B: SS24 SMD Diode
I fixed this and it failed within 3 months after service #1 when a Nichicon PM at C551 reached 49 ohms ESR. On service #2 I had hoped to increase reliability by using some higher endurance caps. I left a cheapo in.
C664: Rubycon ZL 680uf 16v 8x20
C552: LTec LZP 470uf 10v 8x12
C551: Panasonic HFA 680uf 10v 8x15
C554: UCC LXY 680uf 10v 8x18
D550:5v -> C552,C551 -> L550 -> C554 -> F550
D660:12v -> C661 -> L1 -> C1
D660:12v -> C661 -> L560 -> C664
Here comes service #3. It's my monitor so the many service attempts is educational and not a problem. This time I was using it when I heard the cap pop. The monitor continued to work. I quickly open it up to see that the Ltec C552 has blown. Better caps are in parallel which allowed the monitor to continue working. Heat sink HS550 and all the caps inside it were very hot which is why this monitor eats weak caps faster than your average electronic oven. Only very high endurance caps should be used. Up to 20mm caps will fit. Taller caps usually are higher endurance so the taller the better. Here are some high endurance caps.
3000 hours 8mm Rubycon ZL
4000 hours 8mm Rubycon YXG
5000 hours 8mm UCC LXY
6000 hours 8mm 6.3v UCC KY
2000 hours 8mm Panasonic FC
2-3000 hours Panasonic FJ (based on height)
3000 hours 8mm Panasonic FK
3000 hours 8x15 Panasonic FM
4000 hours 8x20 Panasonic FM
6000 hours 8x11.5 Panasonic FR
8000 hours 8x15 Panasonic FR
9000 hours 8x20 Panasonic FR
No more Mr Nice Guy. The other caps are fine. For the blown cheapo in goes the toughest thing I have. Maybe it will last this time.
C552: UCC LXY 680uf 10vLast edited by severach; 07-18-2011, 01:08 AM.
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