Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

[alexanna]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

It's 3 years old and that's in the time frame where we see alot of bulging caps,And i have noticed what you are describing on some 22" samsung's

[kehall]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Thanks, as I'm currently using the monitor I don't want to dismantle it until ready to swap caps, but want to get the parts sorted out first - does anyone have a list of the main culprit capacitors - I've already got noted the 82uF 450v primary filter in case thats a cause of the flicker, but what else, please, in case I don't already have in stock?

Regards,

Keith.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

does anyone have a list of the main culprit capacitors

Manufacturers are known to use different board revisions and completely different boards and keep the same lcd monitor number.

It is best to open your own monitor and record the value of the uF, voltage, diameter, and height of the caps. That way, you are assured of getting all the proper replacements.

If you live in the USA, you can order replacement caps from digikey.com and get your caps in about 48 hours and only pay around $2.75 USD for shipping.

[kehall]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

To be honest not really seen much wrong with the caps on my panel, the worst in terms of ESR is the 10uF/50v in middle of the psu board.

The psu board contains

1000uF/35v
1000uF/35v
82uF/450v
100uF/50v
10uF/50v
47uF/50v
1uF/50v
22uF/50v
47uF/50v
47uF/50v
68uF/63v
1000uF/10v
1000uF/10v
2200uF/10v
470uF/35v

Do you think increasing the value of the 4x220uF/35v on the backlight to say 330uF or more would help with the flicker issue?

Regards,

Keith.

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

To be honest not really seen much wrong with the caps on my panel, the worst in terms of ESR is the 10uF/50v in middle of the psu board.

The psu board contains

1000uF/35v
1000uF/35v
82uF/450v
100uF/50v
10uF/50v
47uF/50v
1uF/50v
22uF/50v
47uF/50v
47uF/50v
68uF/63v
1000uF/10v
1000uF/10v
2200uF/10v
470uF/35v

Do you think increasing the value of the 4x220uF/35v on the backlight to say 330uF or more would help with the flicker issue?

Regards,

Keith.

Another member reported the 82uf 450V cap was the cause of their flickering problem. See post #55:

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=149718

[alexanna]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Another member reported the 82uf 450V cap was the cause of their flickering problem. See post #55:

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=149718

There is something else you could try.
I have had a CCFL problems cause some flickering, this noticeable throughout the entire screen.
these were on wide screen models and it was more noticeable when the monitor was on for enough time for everything to get good and hot. It turned out to be a CCFL that was marginable; it was not to the point to cause 2 sec to black problem.
If you can, try substituting 2 CCFLs at a time the lower ones first and the upper next.
Try to have as much of the monitor assembled as you can, and let it run in its normal upright position. The test bulbs were outside of the case.

[mfunke2601]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

May be help anyone. One more bad cap CM802 18nF-630v. It stay only 10pF!!!
Just replace and everything work OK.

YES!!! it helps. After 4 Days of troubleshooting, i checked the CM802 .. and i measure no relevant capacity !!
replaced and everything works OK

[mfunke2601]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Hi,
I got the new F9222L but still didn't get the unit to work. I also got another monitor that had a burned resistor RB805. This unit is working again. Now I have a working unit so I can check for differences and already done some stuff, but had no luck to find something. I figured out that voltage on pin 11 also is a feedback loop from 24V side. Because the faulty unit does not have 24V the voltage differs on that pin.
I'm still stuck. It seems, that somehow the unit isn't oscilating. I got high voltage ratings on primary winding. But nothing on the secondary. I unfortunately don't possess a oszilloscope to see what is going on. But with my simple voltmeter I see a little voltage on primary winding (TM801S) on the working unit and none on the faulty one. The working unit also makes a low fizzling sound that I would expect. But the faulty one does not make any kind of sounds.
Any hints are apprecitiated.

bermudahonk

Do you have already checked the CM802 (18nF/630V) ?!
After 4 Days of troubleshooting , i checked the CM802 .. and i measure no relevant capacity !! replaced and everything works OK

[imshrike]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

I'm here just for thank you everyone. I've repaired my dead 245b changing the 3 res (RB805 and her brothers) after reading this thread. Thank you again!

[bermudahonk]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Do you have already checked the CM802 (18nF/630V) ?!
After 4 Days of troubleshooting , i checked the CM802 .. and i measure no relevant capacity !! replaced and everything works OK

Hi,
did your board also did not have 24V? and showed the same voltage readings on F9222L as it is in my case? I have Caps with 22n 630V. I'll give it a try next weekend. Thanks for the hint.

[mfunke2601]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Hi,
did your board also did not have 24V? and showed the same voltage readings on F9222L as it is in my case? I have Caps with 22n 630V. I'll give it a try next weekend. Thanks for the hint.

Yes, missing 24V. The voltages around the F9222L are the same as in your post. All looks fine, but there are no PWM oscillation! I used a 20nF or 22nF. I thick, this is not critical..

[bermudahonk]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Yes, missing 24V. The voltages around the F9222L are the same as in your post. All looks fine, but there are no PWM oscillation! I used a 20nF or 22nF. I thick, this is not critical..

Hi again,
I just replaced the piece as you described also with a 22nF cap and it helped . Thanks for the hint, you made my day. I already bought the caps like 2 months ago because they came like 40 cents a piece just to make sure, but somehow I never suspected them to be the reason. So thanks again.

Best regards from Germany
bermudahonk

[verahsa]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Hi. I'm rather new to the forums, and lack any kind of decent camera.

I have a couple of Samsung 245bw's, and they have served myself and my g/f well for a trio of years now. We've had no problems with them until last week.

Mine's functioning properly still, but hers exhibited a flickering that was worse when the brightness was high. She didn't really tell me what was going on until it was a rather larger issue, and I didn't notice as we were gaming at the time. She described it as jittering, which I assumed was video lag from the fact that she needed to reinstall. @100 brightness, it was a constant fast paced flicker. at 80 brightness, she'd see a flicker for a little while. The next day, she told me about it, and I got a chance to look at it first hand. When the brightness was set at 70 brightness or above, it would flicker constantly or just have a very weak backlight. If the brightness was set to 40 or below, there was a single flicker every 30 seconds or so. I replaced her monitor with a smaller known-good monitor, and resolved to check on it this weekend.

After checking a variety of websites, I found Badcaps forums, and this thread, describing my exact problem. Today, I went to test it to see if it was better, worse, or if I could get a better description, and I'm now seeing that it won't fire up the backlighting or the LCD itself. The computer sees the monitor just fine, recognizes its resolution, and outputs image to it, but a completely black screen with a solid blue power LED that will go to a standard blinking blue if the PC goes into standby.

As I stated in the beginning, the only camera I have is my phone... and that's not a viable option unless you really want mediocre pictures. However, post #175 on page 9 of this thread contains my precise power supply board.

I assume, if I'm reading the threads correctly, that this is most likely the RB805 cap and its twins, 806 and 807. RB805/06/07 all look a little toasty, but not bulged.

I am familiar enough with soldering to replace these, carefully, but I wanted to make sure it was worth the couple hours work to do so, and to verify what part number I would need to purchase, and would something like this be available at a local component store? The sooner I can get this fixed, if it's this simple, the more delighted (and less temperamental) my g/f will be.

Thanks in advance for any information you might be able to provide, and if you have any questions, I will respond as soon as I can. =)

[pharmon96]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Quick question... On the BN44-00173A PS I need to know the capacitor value of CP811.. Thanks in advance!

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Quick question... On the BN44-00173A PS I need to know the capacitor value of CP811.. Thanks in advance!

CP811 is an electrolytic cap, 47uf 50V

[jonaskarud]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

I fixed my flickering (2-100 seconds of black screen every 4-5 minute) Samsung 245b nine months ago, by replacing CP803 (82uF/450V with no measurable fault) with a 15uF/450V electrolytic cap from Rifa.

Still working beautifully!

[dwobser]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

You guys are amazing! I have a friend's dead 245BW, and, after looking at the Caps, didn't see any that looked bad, so I came here. After reading through posts about the burned out resistor RB805, I checked mine, and it was dead open. It did not show visible signs of burns or charring, but it was dead nonetheless.

The original resistor is 68ohm 1/2w, but all I had on hand that was close is a 45ohm 1/4w. This brought the monitor back to life, and I am going to run a burn-in test tonight. If there's a problem that contributed to RB805's burn-out, it should appear faster with the 1/4w.

I'll pick up a resistor assortment from Radio Shack tomorrow, to replace the temp with the correct value.

Thanks so much all, the information here was really helpful, and I wouldn't have had the expertise to figure this out on my own!

[bdodds]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

I woke up this morning to find my 245bw DEAD (other than the blue button) and figured I was going to be out $500+ to get a new monitor, but since I do have a minimal amount of electrical training, I figured I would take a look inside. I found this thread when I was looking for info on how to open the case. The group of 68ohm resistors including RB805 had a brown crusty glue all over them, but I just ignored that at first when I finally got the case open, but I didn't see any other obvious problems so I figured I would read more of this thread and found the info about RB805 fixing the problem. I tested it and sure enough it was OPEN. I replaced all 3 of the 1 watt resistors and my monitor is back in business!!! SWEET
.54¢ in parts and a few hours of my time on a lazy Saturday. THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS GREAT GROUP.

Ok, problem is solved with replacing burned resistor RB805 (temporaly with 45ohm).
Now i reading both main voltages +5.3V and +24V.
PFC was not in function because of open RB805.

Thanx cloepula for resistor

In for turn, i measure normal condition (PS ON) voltages VCC for IC's
VCC voltage on ICE3B0365J - 12,5V (stable)
on PFC 4863g - 15V (stable)

[J.B.]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

Hey folks... This morning my 245BW came down with the exact same problem as the original poster. My monitor has his monitor's setup, also, so hopefully that'll make this easy. Easier.

I'm not asking for a solution yet, but I've read about three pages into the thread and noticed the original poster fell off the grid. Setting that aside, my real inquiry is, what kind of tools am I going to need to fix this? I presume an ammeter at the least.

On a separate note, though, I only know about as much about electricity (and I hate the topic with a passion,) as I needed to get through my aircraft systems class. Is it "safe" for me to monkey with this thing?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

what kind of tools am I going to need to fix this? I presume an ammeter at the least.

Is it "safe" for me to monkey with this thing?

1) You will probably need a soldering iron and multimeter.

2) The hot side of the power board can be dangerous especially with power on (the large cap will be > 300V DC). Even with power off, the largest cap on the power board can also potentially hold > 300V DC or more unless it is discharged. Most modern lcd monitors have a bleeder resistor that will discharge the large cap over a period of 60 to 120 seconds.