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    Samsung Syncmaster 710n

    Hello badcappers!
    I'm an IT guy and most of the time I deal with operating systems and networking.
    In the past when a colleague of mine reported a monitor as defected I simply substituted it and drop the old one into the junk bin, because I don't have an electronics background.
    But in the last months I started to try to learn a bit about SMPS and repair them. Almost every month I got a couple of not working videos sent back to me and so I'm lucky I got material to work on! You know, my primary goal now is to learn new things; having a monitor brought back to life is a nice plus.

    So, right now I got two LCD's Samsung Syncmaster 710; one had the following symptoms:
    - led slowly blinking even with input signal from PC
    - nothing on screen, not even the 2 inital seconds
    - with a torch light I can faintly see something on screen

    From what I've learned in this great forum they are symptoms of a problem with the inverter.
    Anyways I opened up the monitor and I found 2 bulging caps (820uF 25V); measured them with an ESR tester (yep! I bought one) and they both gave 0,60 Ohms. I found also a 330uF 25V cap near the inverter section with an ESR of 0,60 Ohms. So I changed the 820uF caps with two 1000uF and the 330uF. Result: when I turned on the video the led started to blink very fast and I heard a ticking sound, as if it was resetting itself.

    Then, as a test, I changed ALL the caps, even the big filter 400V one (remember: I am learning), connected everything: same as above (fast led and ticks). I even connected the power supply board to the other video: same symptoms.

    I know that in cases like this you often ask to take voltage measures, but I don't feel safe to do so, at least not until I got myself an isolation transformer and become more knowledgeable about this stuff.

    I attach a couple of photos; got any clue of what should I check?
    Thanks in advance

    --
    rob
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 710n

    Well, stupid me: I made a short somewhere in the secondary, I've just checked with a voltmeter...

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Samsung Syncmaster 710n

      I wasn't able to locate the short. I started desoldering components but then the tip of the solderer slipped aside and I made a mess! Hey, no problems at all: I am learning, remember?
      So I won't update this thread anymore and probably will open another one for the other 710n that I got.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Samsung Syncmaster 710n

        Did you switch it on after you created the short? And are you sure that you arent just hearing a short beep as the electrolytic capacitors charge up with the voltage supplied by the meter?

        If not then you should be able to clean it up. That's one of the fantastic things about solder. If you mistakenly solder two pins together you just reflow it, suck away the connecting, then resolder.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Samsung Syncmaster 710n

          Hi guys. Sorry for posting here, but I'm new member and I can't create new topic.

          I have simple question. I have Samsung SyncMaster 710n and it's dying. I want to use powerboard from it inside another Acer monitor, that have dead powerboard and I can't get replacement board.

          Basicaly, I want to replace board ILPI-077 rev. A with board from SyncMaster 710n. My question is, what is 13V cable for? and does DIM mean the same as Brightness?

          this is powerboard from 710n
          http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/3/8...62349697_o.jpg

          and this is board ILPI-077 from Acer
          http://img04.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploa...RoU_015551.jpg

          So I want to use board from 710n to power logicboard (or how is it called) of Acer. Is it enough to just mod cables to fit into logicboard or I need that 13V rail to power something???

          Thank you for any help.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Samsung Syncmaster 710n

            The powerboard from samsung 710n has blue wire 13V(total 9 wires) while Acer board blue wire is for mute(total 8 wires). I think those two boards are not compatible as replacement. Do some voltage test on the white square connector to verify.

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