Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

[azchris]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Azchris, can you program the IC's for me? and I'll pay you in advance. The crystal DTS IC and obviously the Macronix.
Pretty Please

The DSP does NOT require and programming.
As I said in my earlier post, I bought the DSP off eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PCS-New-C...p/263355647333(https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PCS-New-C...p/263355647333)

I would recommend that you buy the DSP, and change it FIRST.
If that does not solve the problem, only then try replacing the Flash IC.
(As I explained earlier, the I don't believe the original Flash IC was bad).

I would be willing to provide a preprogrammed Macronix FLASH however, I'm not sure about how to ship internationally.

[addahasan]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

I bought the Denon AVC-3800 after this my Denon AVR-2802 gone bad in a single day. The 2802 matched with my system in the most outstanding way. The AVC-3800 is the worst experience with amplifier. Its the worst nightmare of Amplifier quality sound.

[addahasan]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Azchris, can you program the IC's for me? and I'll pay you in advance. The crystal DTS IC and obviously the Macronix.
Pretty Please

The AVR-2802/982 has Ext In RCA connectors for FR, FL, SR, SL, C, and Sub. So for a working unit, these inputs amplify signals and send to the corresponding channels.

[azchris]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

The AVR-2802/982 has Ext In RCA connectors for FR, FL, SR, SL, C, and Sub. So for a working unit, these inputs amplify signals and send to the corresponding channels.

[addahasan]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Azchris! Can you confirm me if tHis EXT.IN works with center subwoofer and surround speakers aswell. Because that will be awesome. All i need is the EXT. INPUTS WORKS WITH ALL CHANNELS

[addahasan]

Can you please send me the picture of the connector you short?
The link seems to be outdated

Hi,

I found my Denon AVR2802 had failed in the way described above. However I noticed that in some situations (detailed below) I could hear very faint audio coming through the amp.

If you would like to re-use the following functionality of your amp then there is a fairly easy fix. With the ‘fixed' unit I can:

•Use the amplifier to amplify an external (analogue) source
•Volume control works
•Muting works
•Power speakers A and or B, and potentially surround and sub as separate channels (have not tested)

What does not work:
•The radio receiver
•Switching to any other sources
•Video switching (untested)


Step 1 - confirm your amp has the same fault symptoms as mine had:

A.Connect a source to the FL/FR EXT. IN inputs (e.g. phone, MP3 player, computer) [img]
B.Connect speakers to the FR/FL outputs
C.Configure the ‘source' to be EXT.IN
D.Turn up the volume to around 0dB - you should hear nothing.
E.Turn off the amp and turn it back on
F.Only adjust the main volume, turning it gradually up to +18db - you should hear the EXT.IN source signal coming faintly out the speakers.
G.Note if you do any other adjustment to sources at this point then you will have to power-cycle the system.



Step 2 - disable the mute which is in place

There are a couple of places in the audio signal path that the system can mute the sound. Some are electronic and some are electromechanical (i.e. relays). I think what was happening on my system was that because the main DSP was failing (probably due to the ROM failing as described elsewhere) the microcontroller was then muting the signal. The electronic mute used is not infinite, hence why the test in step 1 works. In this step we disable the mute (permanently).

A.Power off the amp
B.Take off the top case (as described in the service manual)
C.Unscrew the back panel (a lot of screws!)
D.Remove the DSP card to give access to connecter CX114 on the base PCB. [img]
E.Use a solder blob to short pins 3 and 4 of this connector. [img]

Step 3 - test

A.Re-attach “EXT.IN” inputs to test and feed in a signal
B.Power on the amp and slowly increase main volume from lowest volume.
C.If this fix has been successful then you will hear sound from your speakers when the main volume is much lower that in step 1.
D.Having confirmed the fix, reassemble the unit (you could run it permanently without the failed DSP board).
E.Enjoy a few more years out of your amp instead of dumping it!


Note: even with this fix any change to the ‘source' will cause the amp to mute until it is power cycled. This functionality works for me (I only use one internet-connected source into my amp) but may not work for you. No DSP or digital functions (like DTS, Dolby, etc) are available. If you need the DSP then consider replacing the ROM as detailed elsewhere.

[azchris]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

The only IC file I have is what I posted 02-10-2018.
It's the Flash memory image.

[madan1]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Hi, great job!
Would you be that kind to attach/upload any chip dumps that you have?

[azchris]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

update: 3/2018: Finally Denon AVR-982 (same as AVR-2800) is working after replacing the DSP.

After replacing the Flash, the DSP program memory download was completing. However, the when the DSP CPU attempted a Read from the DSP (via SPI bus) the DSP IC did not reply. This made me suspect that the DSP was bad.

I ended up replacing the DSP chip (Cirrus/Crystal CS493292-CL) and that fixed the issue. The Denon AVR-982 is working (with the Macronix replacement flash which I programmed as described earlier).
I bought the DSP IC off eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PCS-New-C...p/263355647333

Attached some photos with new ICs, OLD DSP, and showing all of the Debug probe wires before I removed them.

[azchris]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

PS:
One more attachment showing the screen grab in the mini pro software after reprogramming the new Flash Chip.

[azchris]

Re: Denon avr 2802: Reflashed bin using Macronix & TL866 pgmmer

I replaced my Flash Chip and reflashed. Some of the symptoms are better (but the unit is not working completely). I wanted to provide some details in case this helps anyone. I also used a much less expensive programmer.

Materials/tools:

• Chip-Quik SMD-1 SMD removal kit (ex:https://www.circuitspecialists.com/c...moval-kit.html)
  
• TL866A Minipro USB programmer. (Ex:
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/321495091754) or autoelectric.cn
  
• TL866 TSOP-32 adapter (ex:
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/321496089532)
  
• TL866 USB Programmer Software (ex:
  http://www.autoelectric.cn/en/tl866_main.html)
  Note that the TL866/Minipro software shows the checksum for the flash contents (binary file).
  
• Original Flash: Atmel AT49LV002-70TC (2Mbit 256k x 8).
  (checksum = 0x00F6_F4EA. Note that the last 4 characters are printed on the Flash chip!)
  
• New Flash : Macronix MX29LV040CTI-70G (4Mbit 512k x 8) (ex:
  https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...091-ND/2744774)

(see attached photos.)
The new Flash, although 2x the size, appears to have comparable specs (Voltage, Timings, Access time, and Package/Pinout e.g TSOP 32 8x20mm). I believe the ONLY difference is that Pin 9 (RESET# on the Original FLASH, which is unused/tied high) is now “A18” (because the new Flash has one more address bit since it is 2x the size). The Boot block/programming does not matter because the flash is used in READ mode only on the DSP board.

After I removed the original Flash IC with the Chip Quik, I cleaned the leads, then carefully installed it in the 32-TSOP adapter. Using the TL866/Mini pro, I read out the Atmel AT49LV002 FLASH contents several times. I was surprised that it gave consistent checksum (0x00F6_F4EA). Since the checksum is ‘correct', I am actually not sure that the flash is bad (although it may be “slow” or ‘degraded' as described by Sparx earlier in this forum). I saved the memory image to a binary file. It matched the one described (but not currently provided) by “sparx_59” / Nataf on the Badcaps website (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...t=45694&page=5).

NOTE I HAVE ATTACHED A ZIP file with the 2 binaries. (one 256k, the other doubled to 512K)

For the binary memory contents file to be programmed:
I copied the 256K codes (0x0000-0x3FFFF) so the same code will be programmed in the upper half of the Flash memory (0x40000-0x7FFFF). This way, regardless of the value of address bit A18 (high or low), the data read out will be the same.
The new checksum is then 2 * 0x00F6_F4EA=0x01ED_E9D4) but it is really the same code as the original.
I used a perl script to read the binary file, compute the checksum (sum of all bytes), and then write copy the code to the ‘upper' half. But later I saw that the minipro software also allows you to add an offset when loading the memory file (see below) so this was not actually necessary.

In the TL866 minipro s/w: Selected IC for the new flash: “MX29LV040C @TSOP32”.
Fill memory with zeros (Fill block, code memory, with value 0x00). -> checksum is 0x0000_0000.
Read in the 256K Binary file (File -> open -> select file, and change “clear buffer when loading the file” to “Disable” ). Now the checksum is 0x00F6_F4EA (same as original value).
Read in the 256K binary file again but this time put it in the upper half of the memory (“File-> Open -> Select file -> “File Load Options” -> “Load Mode” : “To Buffer Strat Addr(HEX)” change from 00000 to 40000 (hex)) AND again change “clear buffer when loading the file” to “Disable”. -> Checksum 0x01ED_E9D4. Now the upper half should match the lower half.

NOTE: Doubling the code is not required if you chose to modify the DSP board, to remove the 0-ohm resistor (R949) which ties Flash PIN 9 to Vcc=3.3V, and instead, connect it to ground (to hold Pin 9 which is A18 on new 512KB Flash.) But I figured, I only want to do this one time, so I might as well put the DSP code in there twice, rather than leaving the upper half of the Flash unused.

After programming the new flash with the mini pro, I verified it several times. Then I soldered it back on the DSP board.
I carefully checked for shorts between pads before soldering and removed a few solder bridges. Soldering was tricky due to the 0.5mm Pitch. After soldering, I used an ohmmeter to check for shorts between every pad, and for continuity from each IC lead, to the corresponding PCB pad.

As I said, this did not completely resolve the problem but I believe that the DSP flash is OK now.
I have scoped out a lot of signals on this unit. Before I replaced the Flash, I observed that the DSP was continually getting reset during the download of the code via the Autoboot sequence. This is no longer happening - Now I observe that the DSP gets reset only ONE time each time the selector knob is changed. The DSP CPU mutes the volume, resets the DSP, pulls the INTREQ low (to enable the AUTOBOOT), then waits for the DSP to finish reading the flash memory. That all seems correct. However, I don't understand the messages that come on the SPI bus between the DSP and the DSP CPU.
I have access to schematics and service manual (downloaded it a few years ago, but I don't know where from). The datasheets are useful (Cirrus/Crystal Semi CS493292/CS49300 family DSP datsheet and App note AN163_28162). I have gained a lot of understanding since starting this rather long project and I may go into details in a later post.

After I replaced the Flash Chip, the DSP no longer continually resets, but the unit is still not working. I am not sure why. I will try to provide update in the future. Thanks.

[azchris]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

I also am looking for the FLASH image and/or replacement flash chip.

My Denon AVR-982 (2802) is collecting dust since I initially debugged it in December 2014. Oscilloscope showed that the DSP is continually resetting
and I suspected bad FLASH chip IC817. Since then, I recently found this post, and I am hoping that Henk "sparx_59" will reply with updated links for the flash image.

thanks
Chris

[Lownoise]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Hi Sparx59
I'm very happy to find your post.I have a same prbl. whit my old avr 2802.
Unfortunatly the url what was you posted isn't work...O>((...there is no file!!!
Can you send me a copy from this flash please?
Many thanks
Regards Bill

[srikar201]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Hi All,

I am having problems with Digital Board on Denon AVR-1612. The microprocessor R5F56108VNFP gets over heated.

If i decided to replace R5F56108VNFP do i need to flash program?


Also please help me if anyone can program it for me.


Thank you-

[NIKMANAS]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

still no link
does anyone have the file to upload it?

[budm]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_li...avr-2802.shtml

[nataf10]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Hi Nikmanas,
The link does not exist!!! (ERROR 404)
Do you have the file on your PC so you can download to the forum?
Please advise

[NIKMANAS]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Here you go
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fcembdd9eq...02%20dump?dl=0

Flash it on a new chip, solder it on the board, and ready!

hello
please add a new link .. this one is dead
thank you

[nataf10]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Hi .
Can you please upload the dump file for IC817.
The link you provided is not working.
Thx in advance

[Vourath]

Re: Denon avr 2802 with no sound on speaker

Hello All,

I have a Denon AVR-2802 with the no-sound problem. Anyone can help me to buy the IC?

Thanks !