So I found this to be strange: I had my alligator clips/fuse connecting the two pins that the thermal fuse is connected to, and it still did the power flicker thing. I even cut one of the thermal fuse leads and had just the fuse link in there, and still had the same issue. Are those leads coated with something to prevent a good contact? The ohm meter said there was no resistance in the leads or the thermal fuse. I tested all the transistors, no shorts there. I tested all the ceramic resistors and those all seemed to measure 0 ohms. Because they were all the same, I guess they are okay.
I'm starting to wonder if the issue is not somewhere in the first little transformer near where the power plugs in.
I replaced the thermal fuse, and am still having the issues. Sometimes, the whole receiver will shut off and not power back on for days. When it does come back on, it'll stay on, but occassionally (and with no time-based pattern I can discern) will flicker on/off. I popped the relay cover off on the relay next to the incoming transformer (where the power plugs in) to see if it's burned out or flawed, but it looks perfect. When it works, that relay clicks on and off with no big spark, but when the power flickers on/off, there is a huge blue spark at that relay when it shuts off. It was doing this with no speakers plugged in. All the transistors and their respective resistors (on what I think is the amplifier board) tested fine (not shorted). Where should I look next?
is there such thing as "Checking for a ground" in the world of AC electronics? I have a mechanical background and that is a common issue with DC marine electronics.
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