Battery Hookup new listing “Case 100x 3.3v 2200mah - 200x 18650 Lifepo4” for $100.00 + shipping

[sam_sam_sam]

I bought a case of them the battery cells are made in China the charge curve looks decent for 1 amp charging rate there is also a BMS protection board which here is the website link to them

https://batteryhookup.com/collection...-lifepo4-cells

Here are more of the same but the difference is that they do not have the BMS protection boards but have the tabbing on them

https://batteryhookup.com/collection...o4-power-cells this is a case of 128 battery cells for $64.00

I am testing right now there are two battery cells in parallel high current capacity ( I will check them at five amp load without the BMS protection board Battery Hookup is probably correct that the BMS protection boards are only for about 2 amps because at 1 amp they are a little bit warm to the touch) and see how they behave and I will post the results

If the BMS boards are good but the battery cells are so -> so I will just use the BMS boards with the A123 battery cells that I do not have BMS protection boards for and use these battery cells in a 12 volt battery pack enclosure that has a one battery cell rail that is bad and see if the BMS protection board actually works and it was bad cells or the BMS protection board has issues

Use Extreme Caution with these BMS protection boards they are NOT for Lipo 4 battery cells they are regular lithium ion battery cells I took it up 3.90 and it was climbing up in voltage and I stopped the battery testing machine I was standing there and the voltage was climbing very quickly once it got beyond 3.5 volts which when you see voltage climbs that quickly you know that this can not be the right BMS protection board for this type of battery cell

[sam_sam_sam]

Use even more caution using these BMS protection boards they are completely useless for protection of these battery cells 1.15 volts cutoff not good at all I suspect that the cutoff voltage might somewhere around 4.3 or maybe more I will take this one off and put it on a regular 4.2 volt battery cell and see what the real voltage cutoff is

I might have to build my BMS protection board for the correct voltages that are needed unless someone knows where I can get real BMS protection boards one cell Lipo 4 battery cells

Conclusion about these battery cells made from China is that they are decent the amp hours are what they have in the data sheet that Battery Hookup provides for these battery cells when I separate this battery pack and take off the BMS protection board I will test them for high current and see if this correct as well at least for 5 amp load if it looks good enough I put on my other battery testing machine and test them at 20 amp load and see what the discharge curve look like and post the results

Especially seeing how each battery cell comes out to $0.50 each plus shipping cost of $0.085 for a grand total of $0.585 not a bad deal even though you can not reuse the BMS boards because of the wrong cutoff voltage on the high end and on the lower end

Now these BMS protection boards might be ok for some nicad battery packs that I plan on building in the near future but I have to see what the high end voltage cutoff is to know if this is feasible or not but time will tell the real story

[sam_sam_sam]

Here are the results of the charging curve the reason you see that I momentarily stopped it was to change the cutoff voltage because it was not really finished charging up according to the voltage curve data results ( when you see the current curve that steep and at this angle one the left the one on the right is what it should look like when you have the correct voltage cutoff I know from past experience that it is not finished wand like I mentioned earlier these are decent battery cells for the price

[sam_sam_sam]

I bought another cases Lipo 4 battery cells but these are not high current capacity ones these are going to be used to make some 6.6 battery packs and some 9.9 volt battery packs for some 9 volt devices that I have that I mostly use in my shed

These are also from Battery Hookup this is also a new listing

https://batteryhookup.com/collection...-lifepo4-cells

But this is a different Chinese manufacturer so I will have to test these as well to see what quality they are as well and let see if these BMS protection boards are any better than the other ones that I just tested

[sam_sam_sam]

On the battery cells that I mentioned above the first listing they used some crazy glue to hold the two battery cells together so cutting them apart I going to have to replace the heat shrink tubing when I get ready to make up this battery pack

[sam_sam_sam]

Here are the results of the 4 amp load test on these Chinese made battery cells that I bought at Battery Hookup that I listed above in the first post
These Chinese battery cells are have decent performance quality from the testing that I have done so far now it is time to test some more battery cells and test the 12 volt battery pack that I bought a while back that I knew that was defective that I got from Battery Hookup I just need to know if the BMS protection board works correctly or not before putting these battery cells in this enclosure

For just over $0.60 this includes shipping
I would be willing to pay up to $3.00 per battery cell at the most but not much more than this for Chinese made cells

One note these battery cells are only just little over one amp hour

[sam_sam_sam]

I bought another cases Lipo 4 battery cells but these are not high current capacity ones these are going to be used to make some 6.6 battery packs and some 9.9 volt battery packs for some 9 volt devices that I have that I mostly use in my shed

These are also from Battery Hookup this is also a new listing

https://batteryhookup.com/collection...-lifepo4-cells

But this is a different Chinese manufacturer so I will have to test these as well to see what quality they are as well and let see if these BMS protection boards are any better than the other ones that I just tested

Well I tested two packs one of them the BMS failed the charging test the shutoff voltage was way off when it got to 3.2 volts it climbed so fast that I thought that the battery cells were crap but this was not the case the BMS board is faulty because I separated the two battery cells and the battery cells have what Battery Hookup says that they are 1.5 amp hour and I was getting around 1.6something so I can not complain

The other one the BMS seems to working correctly charging but it has not reached 3.5 volts so I do not know yet at what voltage it is going to cut out at


These BMS boards are shit they do not cut of the voltage correctly and it caused the battery testing machine to error out I had to power cycle it to reset it I am not testing any more of them because I have a feeling that this is why they are sold surplus but did not reveal that are defective BMS boards issues quality issues because each board has some kind of issue with either not charging correctly or not turning off the power to battery when fully charged this completely unacceptable for a battery powered project I going to use the battery cells I do not find any issues with them so far

[sam_sam_sam]

It just dawned on me something that I might be doing wrong with testing BMS boards on this battery testing machine if it only controls the current I need to put the voltage input leads need to be hooked up to battery cells and not to the BMS input side of it

but I can not do this test on the 8 channel battery testing machine because the voltage input leads are not isolated from the output side like it is in the single channel battery testing machine I will have to try this idea tomorrow morning and see if I am right with my hunch because if I am right I can safely test BMS boards I have to basically rigging the BMS board as a jig so I can run these test

This is another case were this issue has been nagging me for a long time now ( this is a very serious problem I have when I do not understand why something happens like this I want to know WHY and is there a different way to accomplish what I want to do with a piece of equipment that I own and I do not take NO not very well ) I figure out how it was destroying the mosfet board on the single channel battery testing machine but I was still trying to figure out how I can still be able to test BMS protection board with out destroying the mosfet board on the machine

What make think that this can work is the test that I did to figure out how and what it controls the current and the voltage no it does not control the voltage but the voltage enables the current to be turned on and it appears to not affect by voltage it just controls the current because I run the test where I use a 28 volt incandescent light on the output side of the battery testing machine and use a 18650 battery cell hooked to the voltage input leads and adjust the current from 100 milliamperes and it did not light the light bulb but it shows 100 milliamperes I keep running this type of with different current setting and I increased the current up for example when I got to 300 milliamperes it started glowing and was going up increasing the current amount by 100 milliamperes until I got up to 1200 milliamperes which the light bulb was at full brightness so my thinking is as the voltage rises to 3,5 volts at the battery cell not the BMS input side of it will I see the current go to zero milliamperes with the voltage set to 4.0 volts at least this is theory that I have about it now I have proof that this a working concept that I use and is repeatable and I basically get the same results each time that I can rely on

One note if I figure this out and my hunch is correct I can put issue to bed once and for all and not keep going down the same rabbit hole trying to figure out how to fix the issue I will be alright even if my hunch is not completely right it might point me in the right direction you might be thinking that I am trying to reinvent the wheel no but trying to improve its performance and make it better for me in the long run or find out what is the correct prosecutors to test BMS protection boards

On a side note I was indirectly complement about my presidency about getting to the bottom of an issue with a machine at work that all the other maintenance people were not sure about what was wrong with this machine safety relay that cost $3000 and they called out a technician for them to figure out what was wrong with this machine they checked all of the wiring in safety relay circuit and after the technician was add for two days and basically going down the same rabbit hole and kept coming back to the safety relay itself while the technician was on the phone with his boss I made the comment that at what point are we going to come to the conclusion that the safety relay is probably the issue and put a new one in there and try it ( these safety relay very seldom go bad ) and that was exactly what the issue was one note this was not the only issue that this machine was having it had two other issues as well

Because the reason the 8 channel battery testing machine error out was because the voltage spiked up to 6 volts because the BMS protection board did turn off but it was hard to tell at what voltage this happened because it showed up in the graph curve chart

[eccerr0r]

dang...about ready to push the button on a few of the used packs from BH... should I beware?
thinking about seeing if I can save a kilowatt hour and dumping it back onto the grid when the electrical rate is high, but unsure how my GTI will handle it, not to mention still need to figure out how to charge these batteries.

[sam_sam_sam]

dang...about ready to push the button on a few of the used packs from BH... should I beware?
thinking about seeing if I can save a kilowatt hour and dumping it back onto the grid when the electrical rate is high, but unsure how my GTI will handle it, not to mention still need to figure out how to charge these batteries.

One thing I learned and recommended is that you at least have a way to monitor voltage and current over time because it tells you a lot of information about weather or not your concept is feasible or not I personally do a lot of testing of concepts for a long time and try to make them fail if I can or the results I am seeing is there a possibility of an issue of failure if so what are the conditions and the consequences of this type of situation and can it be controlled safely this very important question to be answered if I can answer it by saying that it safe as I can make by the information that I am aware of and the knowledge that I have about the situation and the concept about the device that I am building

Charing the battery is not the issue it getting the correct BMS balancing protection system for the type of battery cells this is the challenge and having a way to test the BMS system for functionality to make sure that you are not destroying the battery cells and have thermal runaway situations this is the challenges part of this process for a battery pack that is not readily available for purchase which my issue I need 6 and 9 volt battery packs for a certain amount of amp hours size of the battery pack

My suggestion on this aspect of this I would build a test battery pack and test your assumptions and see if it is a working concept and prototype when I have done this in the past I come to realize that some of my ideas are not feasible to build because either I can not make it safe to operate or the testing reveals that it can not be controlled safely and or to make it safe to operate is going to be costly to maintain or build or you can not find the right equipment to build what you want to accomplish or the system becomes too expensive and elaborate for what you want to achieve

I have devices that I need battery packs that are rechargeable because I getting tired of buying throw away battery cells that are disposable and end up in the landfill and or leaking into the device that you have and having to clean up the mess it makes

[eccerr0r]

I just want to f**k with the electric company just for fun Or also power my electric lawnmower when its battery goes flat (it currently uses a lead acid 24v 10Ah pack.)

I've been recharging my cordless mouse's alkaline AA battery because I'm cheap. Really need to find some cheap NiMH that hold some energy. Since BH is selling cheap alkaline AA's too, I don't know what I should really do. 200 alkaline AA's for $10 will buy at most 4 NiMH AA's? (my mouse uses 1AA so not much space to work with...)

[sam_sam_sam]

Yea I got a riding mower that the battery keeps going dead I replaced last year and the same thing had happened again it time to make a battery pack it as well

I know the feeling about electric companies most of them are really good for you just wanting to raise rates and that is about it

[eccerr0r]

My electric rates have gone up, but not really that much. Just that I want to f**k with the so called "peak demand" hours where they charge 3-4x nominal rate because they want people to reduce consumption during that time. With the batteries I want to do some arbitrage...but more importantly it would be nice if I could save some of the excess power my solar panels are generating and dump it during the peak demand hours.

Unfortunately even as fun as it sounds, it's not worth it TBH. The battery cost simply doesn't make sense or at least the payback time is immense. If I buy batteries+infrastructure $100/kWh and do simple arbitrage I save about $0.15/kWh (or more if I use my excess solar power) so it would take 700 cycles if I collect the whole kWh to break even.

At least I'll have stored energy available if/when the grid goes down.

[sam_sam_sam]

Could use AAA battery cell packs if so you can get them for $1.00 for 3 battery cells in one pack they are low current battery cells

Right now they are not on sale for $1.00 but do run this every so often if you are interested in some let me know and I will let you know when they go on sale again

Battery Hookup dose have some battery packs that are $40.00 per kilowatt hour but those battery packs are not as cheap as the single battery cells so I am not sure exactly how you figure out how battery cells you would need to make one kilowatt hour the two offers that I posted at the beginning of this post

[eccerr0r]

Yeah the cells you have for this topic is 726Wh total, so the box is $137/kWh. $40/kWh sounds a bit nicer but at least these cells are new.

[sam_sam_sam]

If I see new battery cells for a very good I will post a link to them because every once in awhile they have very good deals

The reason I post these is because these are decent battery that are made in China and they are what they are list for in milliamperes which is unusual a lot of Chinese made battery cells are very disappointing and not worth my time even testing them I was taking a big chance when I bought the first case but after testing a few of them I decided to take a chance on a second case from a different manufacturer and I was taking a big chance on these battery cells because they have a very plain label on these

The most disappointing part of these battery packs are the BMS protection board do not seem to function properly from what I have seen so far but I might not be testing them correctly I trying to figure out the correct way to test them using my battery testing machine without damaging it I still working on this issue and when I figure this out I will post what my findings are so stay tuned for an update hopefully very soon

[eccerr0r]

probably have to desolder and test without the battery? or with a real cobalt/manganese/polymer battery?

I'll need to get/make a charger... fortunately have some 24V chargers but not very high current...

[sam_sam_sam]

Here is another listing but this is for pouch battery cells that are new for $43.00 a kilowatt hour

https://batteryhookup.com/collection...r-cells-40-kwh

If you need bolt holes in the tabbing if you have variable speed speed drill press it is fairly easy to do if you have the speed very slow and do not push the drill bit very fast it can be done but the secret is to not to have the drill speed fast not to fast and not to use a lot down pressure and take your time and use a very sharp drill bit and use a piece of wood at the bottom of the tabbing piece

What would also help if you had a clear piece of plastic so you can put it over the tabbing piece so it does not crinkle up in the center of the hole but if you do not have this it is not a deal breaker but would make it easier to do also if you have a durable dermal tool with a grinding stone clean the center of the holes would also help to remove the burrs

I have not personally bought any to test but Battery Hookup is pretty decent with there description of there batteries only a few times have I had to ask for an adjustment on a purchase because the hole lot of batteries were not as descriptive and in some cases I given back the hole amount of the order including the shipping cost but I have to send a picture of the battery testing results with a picture of battery under test

[sam_sam_sam]

probably have to desolder and test without the battery? or with a real cobalt/manganese/polymer battery?

I'll need to get/make a charger... fortunately have some 24V chargers but not very high current...

I will take this under advisement and see if this test results can be found to be consistent and repeatable and reliable but I really would like to find a way to test this under real working conditions both charging and and discharging conditions during a cycle and be able repeatedly several times and get the same results each time

[eccerr0r]

Cost of infrastructure needs to be added into the price... BMS included (and it shows up as $49/kWh for me?? looks like you get a discount now?)

Well you're one up since you have an analyzer of sorts. I've just been making wild guesses based on time to discharge, estimated discharge curve, and ESR to figure out health of batteries, and I do have a lot of bad batteries that should be disposed of...don't need any more of these... sigh.