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**saquib** · 02-20-2010, 02:15 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Here's the more detail:
The main board has all the voltages correct as specified in the circuit. I am getting all the 3.3V, 5V, 12V and 18 V on the main board. Reset the pin on GM1606 (main Chip) nothing came on.
I dont have inverter circuit. The inverter is INV20-6007.
There are 2 fuses on the inverter and they are fine.
There were two 220uF/16V capacitors which I replaced with new ones.
Any suggestion how to test/check the inverter board?

**PlainBill** · 02-20-2010, 02:22 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by saquib

Here's the more detail:
The main board has all the voltages correct as specified in the circuit. I am getting all the 3.3V, 5V, 12V and 18 V on the main board. Reset the pin on GM1606 (main Chip) nothing came on.
I dont have inverter circuit. The inverter is INV20-6007.
There are 2 fuses on the inverter and they are fine.
There were two 220uF/16V capacitors which I replaced with new ones.
Any suggestion how to test/check the inverter board?

Check the voltage to the inverter - is it stable?

As always, pictures help us help you.

PlainBill

**saquib** · 02-20-2010, 05:43 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Thanks PlainBill......I will post the inverter picture.

**saquib** · 02-21-2010, 08:13 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Here's the inverter pictures

Attached Files

**MrAngry** · 03-06-2010, 11:37 AM

Re: Acer AL2032W

I've been reading a few of the posts regarding Acer displays, I got a AL2032w a while back that I haven't had much luck with. I did the same type of stuff as others, replaced caps having noticeable swelling, re-soldered a few points that looked less than perfect, prior to that I had checked the power supply, voltages were all proper. I haven't messed with it in a while but would like to get it working, from memory it had an blinking orange led, didn't power on, made a faint clicking sound from the speakers. This unit looks to have been well taken care of, but I'm guessing that I might have gotten one with a strange problem, because I have that kind of luck. I don't have the service manual or schematic but I would think the other models with an external power supply would be similar. I have a renewed interest in trying to fix this display, this forum is the only place I've heard Acer success stories so far. I'll go through the thing and find where I left off and have another look at the boards.

**PlainBill** · 03-06-2010, 12:21 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by saquib

Hello,
My Acer AL2032W's blue power LED is blinking and no picture. The power supply adopter is supplying 18V.

This brings up a point that bears remembering. The activity of the power LED can vary, depending on the intent of the design team. I'm using a KDS monitor, a steady blue LED means 'Signal Present'. A steady orange LED means 'No Signal', and if I remember correctly, can also mean the monitor is not connected to a computer. Some Dells use a Green LED to indicate 'Signal Present', orange indicates 'No Signal', and if there is no compute connected, it will display a moving Dell logo. A Sceptre monitor I have will display a steady blue LED for 'Signal Present', and a flashing blue LED for 'No Signal'.

PlainBill

**saquib** · 03-11-2010, 10:10 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

I connected the monitor to the the PC and there is no image appears on the screen. The screen is black. I tried to see if any image appear to check if its inverter issue or not but no image at all on the screen.

**PlainBill** · 03-11-2010, 10:33 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by saquib

I connected the monitor to the the PC and there is no image appears on the screen. The screen is black. I tried to see if any image appear to check if its inverter issue or not but no image at all on the screen.

I've marked up one of the pictures. Here are a couple of points to measure the voltage:
1. From Gnd to Power

I've circled these next two pins on the connector. While you have the probes on these points hit the power button on the monitor several times 5 seconds apart and see if the voltage changes.

2. From Gnd to A

3. From Gnd to B

There are two discolored areas on the board; I've circled them in red. What are those?

What brand of caps did you use?

PlainBill

Attached Files

**saquib** · 03-12-2010, 09:47 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

1-The voltage between Gnd to Power = 18.6V
2-The Voltage between Gnd & Point A = it veries between 38.7mV to quick jump 16 V and its so quick with and without pressing the power button and heard to read the max side.
3-The voltage between Gnd & Point B = 0.0V no change when press the power button.
I also noticed that the voltage jumps @ pointn A when the Blue Power LED Flash. It goes to max side when its off and low side when its on.

The other red circle you did in the picture are due to the silicon grease.
The capacitor I used are the same values as original and bought from the Radio Shack.

**PlainBill** · 03-12-2010, 10:01 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by saquib

1-The voltage between Gnd to Power = 18.6V
2-The Voltage between Gnd & Point A = it veries between 38.7mV to quick jump 16 V and its so quick with and without pressing the power button and heard to read the max side.
3-The voltage between Gnd & Point B = 0.0V no change when press the power button.
I also noticed that the voltage jumps @ pointn A when the Blue Power LED Flash. It goes to max side when its off and low side when its on.

The other red circle you did in the picture are due to the silicon grease.
The capacitor I used are the same values as original and bought from the Radio Shack.

Bingo!!! While Radio Shack has been in business for many years (89 to be precise), their product line deteriorated when they were acquired by Tandy in 1962. The might still carry decent product lines, but capacitors are not one of them. The SMPS power supplies in monitors require high quality low ESR caps. I prefer Panasonic FM or FC series. If you order from Digikey and specify USPS First Class Mail shipping you will recieve your order in 2 business days, and pay much less than you would at Radio Shack.

PlainBill

**saquib** · 03-12-2010, 10:16 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Replaced the capacitors with the Sanyo 220uF/25V and no change. I recently got bunch of capacitors from UK. These are good capacitors. My friend also go to Hong Kong and Tiwan often and I got a good amount of different capacitors from there .

**PlainBill** · 03-13-2010, 06:10 AM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by saquib

Replaced the capacitors with the Sanyo 220uF/25V and no change. I recently got bunch of capacitors from UK. These are good capacitors. My friend also go to Hong Kong and Tiwan often and I got a good amount of different capacitors from there .

The point I am trying to make is not only must the capacitors be good (Sanyo is a very good brand, IIRC), they must be the right ones for the application. Nothing you have said gives me confidence that you have installed low ESR caps!

I'm not going to search for the thread, but there was a case where someone had recapped a board using new good quality (Nichicon, United Chemicon?) general purpose caps. He was having the 'two seconds to black' problem. Replacing them with low ESR caps solved the problem. I'm going to be a hard nose about this. Until you list the series of the caps you are using, I'm not going to spend any time on this problem.

PlainBill

**saquib** · 03-13-2010, 10:14 AM

Re: Acer AL2032W

I understand and appreciate you pointed me for these caps. I was not aware off the Radio Shack Caps.
What do you suggest for next move? I also traced these caps are used as filter for 18V comming from power supply and these voltages are not dropping. They are steady 18V. The fuses on the inverters are also fine.

**PlainBill** · 03-13-2010, 11:38 AM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by saquib

I understand and appreciate you pointed me for these caps. I was not aware off the Radio Shack Caps.
What do you suggest for next move? I also traced these caps are used as filter for 18V comming from power supply and these voltages are not dropping. They are steady 18V. The fuses on the inverters are also fine.

The first thing to do is determine exactly what the specs are on the capacitors you are using. That's not too hard. There should be a two or three letter series identifier on the caps, often next to the temperature rating.

PlainBill

**saquib** · 03-13-2010, 08:54 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

It says 105C (M) TDC. Some of them shows U6C and U1C

**raceway01** · 07-23-2010, 05:42 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

HI

my Al2032w is showing following truble

power supply led stay green and when i turn the monitor on i can see acer logo on the screen and i can see picture too and than black screen rebooting acre logo .....

power supply led goes slow deem and than back on again

any one please help me

THanks

**retiredcaps** · 07-23-2010, 09:42 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by raceway01

any one please help me

See

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...634#post114634

Pay attention to the "misc suggestions" at the bottom.

**seb30** · 02-23-2011, 07:44 AM

Re: Acer AL2032W

Originally posted by saquib View Post

Here's the more detail:
The main board has all the voltages correct as specified in the circuit. I am getting all the 3.3V, 5V, 12V and 18 V on the main board. Reset the pin on GM1606 (main Chip) nothing came on.
I dont have inverter circuit. The inverter is INV20-6007.
There are 2 fuses on the inverter and they are fine.
There were two 220uF/16V capacitors which I replaced with new ones.
Any suggestion how to test/check the inverter board?

I try to repair same display.
Changed inverter capacitor but logic board doesn't start-up, even
with inverter board disconnected. Debugging with freezer/hot gun show
logic board start if hot (without inverter).
I can see pin2 of U8 (max809) triggering reset at the rate of blue led,
but pin3 level is good, strange !
SeB.

Attached Files

**Tobsta** · 12-15-2011, 02:28 PM

Re: Acer AL2032W

I'm having the same problem on my acer al2032w, blue power led is blinking with a faint clicking sound from the speakers.
I disconnected all the plugs from the power board and it worked fine. (blue led stayed on and after a while turned orange and was possible to turn the power on and off with the switch).
I connected the inverter to the power board and that all worked fine too. the lamps light up the screen and the blue power led stays on then cuts to orange after a while. all good.
When i connect the screen to the power board then it goes back to blue flashing problem again.

can you guys help. All the caps look in good condition just the same as the pic above.

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