I have a Lenovo Thinkbook 14 G4 IAP which recently stopped charging due to the USB-C ports both breaking from wear. The USB-C ports are incredible hard to solder and it would cost a lot of money to attempt the job so I was wanting to repurpose the board for something else. I want to try and use the board to create an OpenBSD server using the board and was wondering what ways I can power the board.
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What about just removing the USB jack and hard wire it to enclose with a replaceable USB port board or a power jack and power it that way now if it selects current and voltage then this is going to be more difficult to do but there USB power select boards available on line and even on eBay
Can please post some pictures of the section where the USB port is so we can see what you are dealing with9 PC LCD Monitor
6 LCD Flat Screen TV
30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply
10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool
6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs
1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board
25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase
6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply
1 Dell Mother Board
15 Computer Power Supply
1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it *
These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10%
1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later )
2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board
All of these had CAPs POOF
All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps
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I am new to almost everything hardware so I will look into what you mentioned about hardwiring a new USB port board or power jack. I might still me confused on a couple things and ask a few stupid questions but I will get back to you with those I don't want to waste your time lol.
Thank you for the reply as well I will send photos of the motherboard when I get home from work.
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Originally posted by Klevjetack View PostI am new to almost everything hardware so I will look into what you mentioned about hardwiring a new USB port board or power jack. I might still me confused on a couple things and ask a few stupid questions but I will get back to you with those I don't want to waste your time lol.
Thank you for the reply as well I will send photos of the motherboard when I get home from work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/39488791019...Bk9SR5CPjuPAYw
Or this type
https://www.ebay.com/itm/40447515251...Bk9SR5SPjuPAYw
Here is one more version of this device this one is with a output cable one note about this type is only rated for 1 amp but you might be able to find a module that has more amperage for your computer
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11606259740...3ABFBM7vn65MBj
I hope this helps you decide what way to go forward with this repairLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 03-03-2024, 03:59 PM.9 PC LCD Monitor
6 LCD Flat Screen TV
30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply
10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool
6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs
1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board
25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase
6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply
1 Dell Mother Board
15 Computer Power Supply
1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it *
These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10%
1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later )
2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board
All of these had CAPs POOF
All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps
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Originally posted by sam_sam_sam View PostCan please post some pictures of the section where the USB port is so we can see what you are dealing with
for the option of removing the USB port and hardwiring would I hardwire it to the battery or how would I go about hardwiring it?
2 Photos
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Originally posted by sam_sam_sam View PostWhat about just removing the USB jack and hard wire it to enclose with a replaceable USB port board or a power jack and power it that way now if it selects current and voltage then this is going to be more difficult to do but there USB power select boards available on line and even on eBay
Can please post some pictures of the section where the USB port is so we can see what you are dealing with
https://youtu.be/VPSKQ2PNqXU?si=jDOFRkCQF6bHbudk
This youtube video shows a guy hardwiring his charger to hit charging port. Would it be plausible to use this type of port and solder the positive and negative wires after I take off one of the broken USB ports?
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Originally posted by Klevjetack View Post
When you mentioned hardwiring were you thinking something like this?
https://youtu.be/VPSKQ2PNqXU?si=jDOFRkCQF6bHbudk
This youtube video shows a guy hardwiring his charger to hit charging port. Would it be plausible to use this type of port and solder the positive and negative wires after I take off one of the broken USB ports?
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Originally posted by dmill89 View Post
The fact that it uses USB-C charging makes things a bit more "complex". With USB-C the device and charger communicate to each other (and USB-C can deliver different voltages depending on what both the device and charger will allow), it isn't just a simple static +/- DC power like a regular "barrel" jack (though some of these have communication now too). You could always hard-wire in a UCB-C cable in place of a broken port, but that likely wouldn't be any easier than just replacing the port (a bunch of tiny wires to solder). Alternatively, you may be able to "hack" directly into the charge circuit and bypass the USB-C controller entirely (though I'm not familiar enough with those boards to tell you how or if it is even possible with that specific board). It would potentially be easier to hard-wire to the battery terminals, though I'm not sure if it will "play nice" just getting power without being able to communicate with the BCM (battery control module) in the battery (especially since many manufactures now require that their devices "authenticate" the battery to prevent 3rd party batteries being used).
When you mentioned hardwiring the port wouldn't be any easier that just replacing the port. I have heard from many people that the port is incredible hard to replace because of how small the soldered bits are and you would need some special equipment.
How would I go about "hacking" directly into the charge circuit? How do you do something like that and if I am even able too what does the "hacking" do for me? Does it allow me to run the motherboard without drawing power from the battery? How would I go about putting power to the board if both of the USB C ports are broken?
I apologize for all the questions but I really appreciate the answers and responses I have gotten.
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It might be easy if it has a cable that connects the power port to the motherboard I saw some laptops computers are setup this way you just have to remove the connector from the cable now if the connector is mounted directly on the motherboard this is going to be a more complicated issue to deal with
I am thinking about doing this with an older laptop computer to a much larger battery pack and I have not decided yet which way I want to proceed with either hacking the battery pack or hacking the power cord switching power board so I do not have to deal with the center pin but unfortunately I have projects that have a higher priority at the moment so it might be a few months before I even get started on this project9 PC LCD Monitor
6 LCD Flat Screen TV
30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply
10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool
6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs
1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board
25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase
6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply
1 Dell Mother Board
15 Computer Power Supply
1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it *
These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10%
1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later )
2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board
All of these had CAPs POOF
All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps
Comment
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Originally posted by sam_sam_sam View PostIt might be easy if it has a cable that connects the power port to the motherboard I saw some laptops computers are setup this way you just have to remove the connector from the cable now if the connector is mounted directly on the motherboard this is going to be a more complicated issue to deal with
I am thinking about doing this with an older laptop computer to a much larger battery pack and I have not decided yet which way I want to proceed with either hacking the battery pack or hacking the power cord switching power board so I do not have to deal with the center pin but unfortunately I have projects that have a higher priority at the moment so it might be a few months before I even get started on this project
So to get it power you'd either need to bypass the USB-C port/controller and find a way to get power to the charging circuit directly (as mentioned in my previous post I'm not familiar enough with this laptop/board to give specifics on that), or power it from the battery terminals (though there may be issues here if the device is expecting to communicate to a bcm, some will still accept power from the battery terminals without a bcm signal, some won't).
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Originally posted by dmill89 View Post
That model of laptop doesn't have a direct DC power port. It gets power through the USB-C ports (which goes through the USB-C controller) that are soldered to the motherboard. This is an absolute shit design as the USB-C ports often fail after a couple years of the power adaptor constantly being plugged and unplugged from them and are difficult to replace, but many newer laptops, from many brands use this design (it would be nice if the USB-C ports were on a cheap/easy to replace daughterboard, but most brands don't care as long as most of them last past the warranty).
So to get it power you'd either need to bypass the USB-C port/controller and find a way to get power to the charging circuit directly (as mentioned in my previous post I'm not familiar enough with this laptop/board to give specifics on that), or power it from the battery terminals (though there may be issues here if the device is expecting to communicate to a bcm, some will still accept power from the battery terminals without a bcm signal, some won't).
I will look into what I need to do in order to bypass the USB-C controller or power the charging circuit directly.
Again thank you for all the help.
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Originally posted by rogfanther View PostIt would probably be better to practice on some scrap boards, and then replace that USB-c connector. Soldering to the charging controller, bypassing it and soldering in other places, etc, will take the same amount of care and fine soldering work as to replace the connector.
Thank you for the response.
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