Re: FSP PSU and Capxon caps
Hate to revive an older thread but finally got the caps in and since this is about this damn PSU again I felt starting a new thread wasn't right.
I found some new Panasonic FR caps which are like the FM's but smaller but still had to use those Nichi's for that tight spot and replaced all the Teapo's and Capxon's. Now, wife's PSU is fixed, another PSU is fixed, but mine just keeps tripping the breaker as soon as AC is applied.
I suck at switching power supplies so would like help if possible again. I'm thinking it is these 20N60C3 IGBT's as I get .1-.2ohm between collector and emitter and vice versa (though they are still soldered to the board as I didn't have time tonight to desolder them). I also get 22ohm from emitter to the gate on two of them while one is 2.2ohm (really). They are in parallel.
From what I was looking at in their datasheet there shouldn't be any flow from E to C, am I correct in thinking that or totally off? I know I won't have 100% accurate readings while they are still attached to the board but am trying more prelim stuff before the deeper work. Nothing is fried or burnt and I quadruple-checked to make sure I didn't bleed over any solder.
Also, oddly, the fuse hasn't blown in it.
Any help, please? thank you!
Hate to revive an older thread but finally got the caps in and since this is about this damn PSU again I felt starting a new thread wasn't right.
I found some new Panasonic FR caps which are like the FM's but smaller but still had to use those Nichi's for that tight spot and replaced all the Teapo's and Capxon's. Now, wife's PSU is fixed, another PSU is fixed, but mine just keeps tripping the breaker as soon as AC is applied.
I suck at switching power supplies so would like help if possible again. I'm thinking it is these 20N60C3 IGBT's as I get .1-.2ohm between collector and emitter and vice versa (though they are still soldered to the board as I didn't have time tonight to desolder them). I also get 22ohm from emitter to the gate on two of them while one is 2.2ohm (really). They are in parallel.
From what I was looking at in their datasheet there shouldn't be any flow from E to C, am I correct in thinking that or totally off? I know I won't have 100% accurate readings while they are still attached to the board but am trying more prelim stuff before the deeper work. Nothing is fried or burnt and I quadruple-checked to make sure I didn't bleed over any solder.
Also, oddly, the fuse hasn't blown in it.
Any help, please? thank you!
But today, I’m making an exception here. Why? No idea. Perhaps only because the repair details are still “fresh” in my head… which is ironic, given this is a 16 year old monitor that hardly anyone will care about today. It is new to me, though. 
I picked it up last November from someone on my local Craigslist. It wasn’t very close to where I live, but was close to a family friend that I had to go visit anyways. So after watching the posting on Craigslist for a few weeks and seeing it getting...
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