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    #1

    Fluke 8060A

    I would ask if anyone knows what is the replacement for the Fluke 612 713 for my Fluke 8060A
    Thanks.
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    #2
    Re: Fluke 8060A

    Originally posted by yz7myg View Post
    I would ask if anyone knows what is the replacement for the Fluke 612 713 for my Fluke 8060A
    Thanks.
    That is U3 (MAC). What is wrong with it?
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      #3
      Re: Fluke 8060A

      Same case as in this link
      http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/
      Legs all the way to the damaged IC Case

      Comment

        #4
        Re: Fluke 8060A

        Originally posted by yz7myg View Post
        Same case as in this link
        http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/
        Legs all the way to the damaged IC Case
        Well, modemhead, is a member here, but I know he is away from the computer for a few days during the holiday season.

        I know he couldn't find a source for the Fluke proprietary chip and bought an used/non working 8062A? off ebay and took the MAC from it and transplanted it as per blog entry.

        Before you think about the same thing, I also have a non working 8060A and discovered that 5 out of the 10 electrolytic caps had spewed its electrolyte. You should carefully desolder all the caps and inspect the pcb/components to ensure no other collateral damage otherwise it is pointless getting a new MAC (U3).

        On mine, it looks like the electrolyte from C24 may have killed the true RMS 14 pin IC because I cannot get accurate AC readings (more than 8% off). It looks like the true RMS 14 pin IC is also Fluke proprietary.

        PS. I sent him an email to take a look at this thread when he returns.
        Last edited by retiredcaps; 12-24-2012, 12:51 AM.
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          #5
          Re: Fluke 8060A

          Anyone know where I can find a lcd display for my Fluke 8060a, Yesterday it decided to jump off the bench onto the floor and cracked the display

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            #6
            Re: Fluke 8060A

            It is important, as retiredcaps said, to make sure you have checked all the electrolytic caps. This seems to be a major problem with these particular old models. And also very important, give the PCB a thorough IPA cleaning. There are some high-impedance nodes on the PCB that are very susceptible to leakage currents.

            Even though the MAC chip turned out to be a problem in my unit as described in the blog post, I would still wait until all other possible problems are eliminated before indicting the MAC chip.

            I do not think there is any source for those custom Fluke chips other than to find a 'donor' unit somewhere such as eBay. I would be happy to be wrong about that.

            Same for the LCD. Note that the LCD from an 8062A will work in an 8060A, but it does not have the 'Hz' and 'dB' annunciators.

            Comment

              #7
              Re: Fluke 8060A

              If you don't have an emotional attachment to the 8060A or cannot find parts, I believe the 8050A has similar functionality, but in bench top form.
              Last edited by retiredcaps; 12-24-2012, 11:22 PM.
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                #8
                Re: Fluke 8060A

                Originally posted by modemhead View Post
                And also very important, give the PCB a thorough IPA cleaning.
                Yes, I forgot to mention that after I removed all the electrolytic caps, I gave the pcb an IPA bath to wash off all the old dried up electrolyte.

                Then I soldered on the replacements and couldn't get the ohms to zero out. So I gave it another IPA bath. After that, I was able to get ohms to zero out.

                Modemhead suggested to me a while back to use a dental pick or sharp probe to get dirt/crud off the ICs and nooks and crannies in addition to using a clean toothbrush for general scrubdown.
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                  #9
                  Re: Fluke 8060A

                  Originally posted by yz7myg View Post
                  Legs all the way to the damaged IC Case
                  Did you try cleaning the IC itself with a generous IPA bath and toothbrush scrubdown?
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                    #10
                    Re: Fluke 8060A

                    Originally posted by retiredcaps View Post
                    On mine, it looks like the electrolyte from C24 may have killed the true RMS 14 pin IC because I cannot get accurate AC readings (more than 8% off). It looks like the true RMS 14 pin IC is also Fluke proprietary.
                    With the generous help of modemhead, I found the problem. My RMS chip is good.

                    C28 spewed its guts and I believe some electrolyte worked its way up the legs of R15 (pot). A few turns of the R15 back and forth got my ACV working again.
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