Our 55" VIZIO VF550M (120Hz) quit last week. I believe I have solved how to turn it on and thus operate it, but today a somewhat hostile TV repairman told me the microprocessor was going to overheat and burn out more boards (in just 30 minutes he said) after I described what I was going to do.
I initially had no idea how to even investigate this until I watched a video on ShopJimmy.com. I am somewhat knowledgeable. I am self-taught, have repaired many devices, and have designed and built musical effects years ago. I have a decent VM with a temperature probe I had never used until today - after I talked to this unpleasant repair guy.
The TV power supply is putting out a standby 5 volt feed to the main board, but the main board won’t sending a power-on voltage to activate the power supply’s relay and kick it fully on. I jumpered the 5v standby to the correct power/on pin using a 240 ohm resistor and found the power supply turned on and worked just fine. Lo and behold, the remote and everything that worked before worked fine too, except for the On/Off button and Menu button on the side of the TV. The Input and Channel Up/Down buttons on the side do function.
My intention is to initially turn on the power supply as described with an external switch (adding an LED in series which I tested and works). Then I will turn on the TV with the remote. I intend to turn it off in the reverse order.
My question is due to the M/P heat sink temperatures I measured when I tested it and my recollections of the not-so-friendly TV tech proclamations:
This is my intended operating sequence and the temps I measured. Are these temperatures normal and/or reasonable?
All temperatures, when reached, remained stable.
22º C (72º F) - Off
31º C (88º F) - Power Supply ON
64º C (147º F) - Power Supply ON / Remote Power Button ON (took about 15 minutes to reach)
34º C (93º F) - Power Supply ON / Remote Power Back Off (took about 10 minutes to reach)
24º C (75º F) - Off
And this:
53ºC (127.4ºF) - Remote Power ONLY ON (turned off Power Supply but forgot to also turn off using remote button) Is doing this dangerous - forgetting to turn off with remote first?
ADDITIONAL INFO: My sister gave me this TV several months ago after lightning hit her outside cable line and the HDMI inputs and built-in speakers quit, which were all she ever used. I found the external audio outputs still worked and local broadcast stations came in fine. I don’t have cable, but I do stream Netflix, and the VGA input also worked. Later, after a system reset, even the HDMI inputs came back on, but the built-in TV speakers still don’t work (who cares). My sister had already replaced this TV with a 70" VIZIO by then, so I didn’t tell her about the HDMI working again.
I appreciate any observations offered on this as I am operating on a meager pension. I lack the funds for a $160+ mainboard. My big wish was that this only had leaky/bursting caps that needed replacing, but the caps looked fine.
I want to put this TV back together with some confidence before Neil deGrasse Tyson’s "Cosmos: A Space-Time Odyssey" premiers.
I initially had no idea how to even investigate this until I watched a video on ShopJimmy.com. I am somewhat knowledgeable. I am self-taught, have repaired many devices, and have designed and built musical effects years ago. I have a decent VM with a temperature probe I had never used until today - after I talked to this unpleasant repair guy.
The TV power supply is putting out a standby 5 volt feed to the main board, but the main board won’t sending a power-on voltage to activate the power supply’s relay and kick it fully on. I jumpered the 5v standby to the correct power/on pin using a 240 ohm resistor and found the power supply turned on and worked just fine. Lo and behold, the remote and everything that worked before worked fine too, except for the On/Off button and Menu button on the side of the TV. The Input and Channel Up/Down buttons on the side do function.
My intention is to initially turn on the power supply as described with an external switch (adding an LED in series which I tested and works). Then I will turn on the TV with the remote. I intend to turn it off in the reverse order.
My question is due to the M/P heat sink temperatures I measured when I tested it and my recollections of the not-so-friendly TV tech proclamations:
This is my intended operating sequence and the temps I measured. Are these temperatures normal and/or reasonable?
All temperatures, when reached, remained stable.
22º C (72º F) - Off
31º C (88º F) - Power Supply ON
64º C (147º F) - Power Supply ON / Remote Power Button ON (took about 15 minutes to reach)
34º C (93º F) - Power Supply ON / Remote Power Back Off (took about 10 minutes to reach)
24º C (75º F) - Off
And this:
53ºC (127.4ºF) - Remote Power ONLY ON (turned off Power Supply but forgot to also turn off using remote button) Is doing this dangerous - forgetting to turn off with remote first?
ADDITIONAL INFO: My sister gave me this TV several months ago after lightning hit her outside cable line and the HDMI inputs and built-in speakers quit, which were all she ever used. I found the external audio outputs still worked and local broadcast stations came in fine. I don’t have cable, but I do stream Netflix, and the VGA input also worked. Later, after a system reset, even the HDMI inputs came back on, but the built-in TV speakers still don’t work (who cares). My sister had already replaced this TV with a 70" VIZIO by then, so I didn’t tell her about the HDMI working again.
I appreciate any observations offered on this as I am operating on a meager pension. I lack the funds for a $160+ mainboard. My big wish was that this only had leaky/bursting caps that needed replacing, but the caps looked fine.
I want to put this TV back together with some confidence before Neil deGrasse Tyson’s "Cosmos: A Space-Time Odyssey" premiers.
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