[URL=filedata/fetch?id=3254532&d=1713365527][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\ts12_pcpc_1.jpg Views:\t0 Size:\t104.1 KB ID:\t3254532","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3254532","data-size":"custom","height":"105","width":"120"}[/ATTACH][/URL] [URL=filedata/fetch?id=3254529&d=1713365559][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version ...
em132
Member
Last Activity: 04-17-2024, 09:20 AM
Joined: 05-29-2023
Location: N-W New Brunswick
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Here, for your pic collection (do those innards look familiar at all?):
[URL=filedata/fetch?id=3254532&d=1713365527][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\ts12_pcpc_1.jpg Views:\t0 Size:\t104.1 KB ID:\t3254532","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"3254532","data-size":"custom","height":"105","width":"120"}[/ATTACH][/URL] [URL=filedata/fetch?id=3254529&d=1713365559][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version ... -
Seasonic EA-500 board (S12II) + casing from a dead--yet still new-looking--EA-380D from the late 2000s (had to "ovalize" the board's mounting holes a tad to make them align with the casing's tabs). I think the whole thing looks majorly badass with that black finger guard.
Seasonic's trademark "fingered" heatsinks are still there; they've just been "augmented" with cheap pieces of heatsink stock (from AE), cut to size and bolted and glued with thermal glue. Trust me, they are REALLY stuck on there.
I also wanted to modify the whole thing to...Leave a comment:
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Oh, it's an S12 board alright. Look closely at the heatsink arrangement... It doesn't match the Delta boards.
I really went
on this thing.
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More info/pics to come...
(More testing to be...Leave a comment:
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Cousin came in early, last Thursday!
The PSU was still shrink-wrapped. Unboxed it and plugged it in using one of those LCD testers and a spared HDD... Seems to work OK. Cracked it open and sure enough there's that Hitachi on the primary. The rest of the 'lytics is an even mix of OST and Pce-Tur. C502 (RLX) is bulging slightly despite having never been used
. Regardless, it's getting a [U][B]FULL[/B][/U] recap (minus the small ceramics). Also, that "yellow" gunk is starting to look mighty brownish and brittle. so I guess I'm going to have to play dental hygienist...
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Almost set on how I'm going to proceed.
Started testing and cherry-picking the caps I'm going to use. The big 470µF VXH tested at a low-ish 400µF--within the 20% but still, why do the big Rubys test so low so often?
Gonna use the Panasonic FS 2,700µF at C402 & C405...
the Ruby ZLJ 1,000µF at C403, C406, C503, C504 & C506...
the Nichicon ULD 270µF at C507 & C123...
and the Panasonic FR 3,300µF at C122.
The only question now is what to use at C502, the ZLJ or the KY. I'd really like to use...Leave a comment:
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I use this simple tool, [URL="https://xxclone.en.lo4d.com/windows"][B]XXCLONE[/B][/URL] (Cool Tools -> Duplicate Vol. ID), to check if the volume IDs match, and do a copy (source to target) if they don't. You can do this within Windows. I'm sure other cloning software have a similar tool.
(BTW, partition serial number = "Volume ID")I use this simple tool, [URL="https://xxclone.en.lo4d.com/windows"][B]XXCLONE[/B][/URL] (Cool Tools -> Duplicate Vol. ID), to check if the volume IDs match, and do a copy (source to target) if they don't. You can doLeave a comment:
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I've often had issues with cloning using Windows software.
Booting from a "friendly" Linux live USB (e.g. Mint MATE) and using GParted to do direct partition copies always does the trick for me. It's actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. You just have to make sure to match up the partition serial numbers, otherwise the OS likely won't boot.Leave a comment:
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Thank you both for the replies.
It looks like I won't be getting this supply until mid/end-April. My cousin, who was supposed to bring it to me last week, was forced to reschedule his trip. Oh well, at least it gives me more time to plan this project.
I decided not to use it after all (I eliminated all four contestants, actually). I looked up the specs of that HP3 (safe bet that's what's going to be inside mine) and it lists an already good ripple rating of 2.19A @ 120Hz. It would be dumb to "upgrade" to a cap with a ~12% lower ripple....Leave a comment:
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Alright, so you can forget about that last point (ceramics).
And I now know that's an MOV in the 3rd pic., and that I should just choose one with a 275V (or 300V???) "max. AC Volts" rating.
I'm about 95% set on using the WE as the primary cap.
[B]That still leaves me with my ESR questions/concerns and what larger equivalent NPN device might fit at Q901.[/B]
Alright, so you can forget about that last point (ceramics).
And I now know that's an MOV in the 3rd pic., and that I should just choose one with a 275V (or 300V???) "max.Leave a comment:
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The box I'm writing this post on:
XP (32-bit)
Lenovo M58 (3GHz Core 2 Duo, 4G RAM)
Mypal browser
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Help: Looking for guru input on upgrading an S12II-based PSU
The supply in question is an unused/"NOS" [SIZE=16px][B]Antec EA-500 "80-Plus"[/B][/SIZE] (not the "Bronze") with [B]Seasonic's early "500W" S12II [/B]board. While I don't yet have this supply in hand, I fully expect it to be filled with OST RLS and RLX. I plan to replace these with FR/FS Panos (mostly).
Of course, I also plan on replacing the big kahuna on the primary side. To that end, I'm currently holding a pageant to determine who'll wear the tiara. Here are the four finalists:
[URL=filedata/fetch?id=3231039&d=1709909681][ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click... -
Re: The 2023 Operating System Thread
Same. I actually ran 2K for a couple years during the early 2000s, with the mindset that XP was just the same OS (more or less) with more bloat.
But after playing around with XP and quickly learning that you could turn off (or curtail) much of the bloat, I ditched 2K and never looked back, because, let's face it, lots of system-level stuff that's easy to do in XP was a real pain in 2K....Leave a comment:
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Re: Verify this image
Yes, I know. Hence the
I was j/k....Leave a comment:
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Re: Verify this image
Still nothing compared to those God-awful "puzzle" type checks! Those are [B]THE[/B] worst!
Re: Verify this image
Still nothing compared to those God-awful "puzzle" type checks! Those are [B]THE[/B] worst!
Re: Verify this image
Still nothing compared to those God-awful "puzzle" type checks! Those are [B]THE[/B] worst!
...
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Re: Okay to use 6.3V caps on 3.3V line of PC PSU?
Thanks again for the replies.
A couple more related questions, if I may, this time regarding the [B]Seasonic SS-350ES[/B]. I now have all the equivalent spec caps on hand needed for the transplant surgery. I also have a few more that are above spec in terms of capacitance, and I was wondering how safe (or unsafe) it would be use these instead as "upgrades" in a switching supply.
Specifically: Is it OK to replace the primary (hi Volt) cap, a [B]400V/220uF[/B], with a [B]330uF[/B]? (Note that...Leave a comment:
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Re: The 2023 Operating System Thread
Dual boot WinXP(x86)/Win7(x64) on Lenovo M82 tower systems (I have 2).
I use the XP partition mostly for "old" games and 16-bit relics; 7 for everything else (although I did manage to drag out XP for everything until the mid-2010s).
XP was probably M$'s best overall OS, with 7 being a close second. XP could still be viable in 2023 with proper/continued support, but alas......Leave a comment:
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Re: Okay to use 6.3V caps on 3.3V line of PC PSU?
Thanks momaka. I had a hunch a 6.3V would work. I just wanted some reassurance from the experts here because, like I said, I don't recall ever seeing a 6.3V cap used in a PSU before. Makes one wonder how Teapo managed to stuff 4,700uF@10V in a can the same size as a 3,300. Then again, it did test a bit high when I pulled it (around 4,900), which from what I understand, is not a good sign.
Also, why is it that these supposedly "top-tier" OEMs (FSP in this case) insist on using low/bottom-tier crap caps when...Leave a comment:
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Okay to use 6.3V caps on 3.3V line of PC PSU?
Hi,
I'm currently in the process of re-capping a NOS (new old stock) Sparkle ATX-400PN (from the late-2000s), which was chock-full of Teapos and CapXons
. Am looking to put a yummy mix of NCCs, Panos and Rubys in their place.
Here's the problem I ran into: The 3.3V rail is filtered by a single 4,700uF/10V Teapo... The problem? This thing is only 10mm wide, and a wider (12mm) cap will not fit! I've searched the "big three" shops (Mouser, Digikey, Newark/Farnell) and all the 4,700uF/10V I found were at least 12mm wide. The closests matches I could... -
Re: New Members - please post your introductions here
Hello all... Eric from Canada... New member and occasional re-capper of NOS (new-ish old stock) PSUs.
Decided to join if/when I need the advice of seasoned cap gurus.Leave a comment:
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