Hi All,
These forums are a wealth of information on electronics repairs and usually I can get by with just reading them to get the answers I want. But not today
My background: professional electronic engineer designing and manufacturing niche control equipment. Consumer electronics are a whole different ball game, but I can certainly follow repair guides, measure voltages and read schematics to diagnose at a board level.
The TV: The TH-42PA60A is a 2005/2006 Panasonic plasma that as far as I can tell was only sold in Australia under that part number. It was my Grandmother's and after she passed away I acquired it. A year ago it had a P board (power supply) failure that was easily (and relatively cheaply) fixed by replacing the P board. I have the full service manuals and diagnostic flowcharts which are very handy.
A few weeks back we had some extremely wet weather and insanely high humidity for a few days and the TV gave up. Should have had it covered up. I was watching it in the evening and suddenly the picture developed a bunch of line patterns across it. I decided to turn it off to be safe. Tried to turn it back on and she was dead - no PSU relay clicks or anything. Diagnostics proved that STBY5V was available but the DG board was not sending the wake up signal to the PSU. According to the manual the solution was to replace the DG board, part number TNPA3756.
I did try cleaning the board using PCB cleaner and suitable brushes first but that was no help.
So I ordered a replacement DG board and it arrived just yesterday (from the UK). I plug it in and switch on power. We have relay clicks! But the picture doesn't come on. After a few seconds the power LED starts flashing a single blink code (which means "No particular check point" - handy). I did some research and apparently the other reason for a single blink is that the replacement board may be programmed for a different TV, hence why part number suffixes are important.
Suffixes? Dammit!
So I have a look at my two boards. The old one has a suffix "CQ" and the new one has suffix "CH". Other than that the only difference between them is that the new board has two HDMI ports whereas the old one only had a single. So I need to get one with the right suffix then.
I did some googling and it seems that used CQ suffix boards just aren't around. None of the used parts suppliers (local or international) even list them. I got a quote from a local parts supplier and they want ~$250 for a new board. It's not worth repairing at that cost.
I really don't want to have to bin this otherwise great TV (it's a great picture and everything else is in good condition) so I'm now clutching at straws. I've come up with one last resort:
As far as I can tell, the problem is that the MICOM Processor on the DG board (IC11003) doesn't like communicating with the other boards in the TV due to firmware/version differences. So if everything else on the boards (other than the extra HDMI input) is the same, what if I just swap over the ROM chips used by the processor (IC1101)? Is there any chance that could work? Anything else I should watch out for? I certainly don't have anything to lose...
Thanks for reading - sorry for the long post
These forums are a wealth of information on electronics repairs and usually I can get by with just reading them to get the answers I want. But not today

My background: professional electronic engineer designing and manufacturing niche control equipment. Consumer electronics are a whole different ball game, but I can certainly follow repair guides, measure voltages and read schematics to diagnose at a board level.
The TV: The TH-42PA60A is a 2005/2006 Panasonic plasma that as far as I can tell was only sold in Australia under that part number. It was my Grandmother's and after she passed away I acquired it. A year ago it had a P board (power supply) failure that was easily (and relatively cheaply) fixed by replacing the P board. I have the full service manuals and diagnostic flowcharts which are very handy.
A few weeks back we had some extremely wet weather and insanely high humidity for a few days and the TV gave up. Should have had it covered up. I was watching it in the evening and suddenly the picture developed a bunch of line patterns across it. I decided to turn it off to be safe. Tried to turn it back on and she was dead - no PSU relay clicks or anything. Diagnostics proved that STBY5V was available but the DG board was not sending the wake up signal to the PSU. According to the manual the solution was to replace the DG board, part number TNPA3756.
I did try cleaning the board using PCB cleaner and suitable brushes first but that was no help.
So I ordered a replacement DG board and it arrived just yesterday (from the UK). I plug it in and switch on power. We have relay clicks! But the picture doesn't come on. After a few seconds the power LED starts flashing a single blink code (which means "No particular check point" - handy). I did some research and apparently the other reason for a single blink is that the replacement board may be programmed for a different TV, hence why part number suffixes are important.
Suffixes? Dammit!
So I have a look at my two boards. The old one has a suffix "CQ" and the new one has suffix "CH". Other than that the only difference between them is that the new board has two HDMI ports whereas the old one only had a single. So I need to get one with the right suffix then.
I did some googling and it seems that used CQ suffix boards just aren't around. None of the used parts suppliers (local or international) even list them. I got a quote from a local parts supplier and they want ~$250 for a new board. It's not worth repairing at that cost.
I really don't want to have to bin this otherwise great TV (it's a great picture and everything else is in good condition) so I'm now clutching at straws. I've come up with one last resort:
As far as I can tell, the problem is that the MICOM Processor on the DG board (IC11003) doesn't like communicating with the other boards in the TV due to firmware/version differences. So if everything else on the boards (other than the extra HDMI input) is the same, what if I just swap over the ROM chips used by the processor (IC1101)? Is there any chance that could work? Anything else I should watch out for? I certainly don't have anything to lose...
Thanks for reading - sorry for the long post

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