Re: Samsung 912T click then off
I believe 103 is a resistor.
It is 10 (with 3 zeros) or 10000ohm 10k ohm resistor. So it should read about that.
Glad you got the monitor working.
Samsung 912T click then off
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
Another LCD temporarily saved from the recycle bin. (I hope, still testing...)
The parts came in the mail, and when I got out the zener diode, I realized that it was almost 1/2 the size as the original... I was concerned, but thought I would try it since the specs should be the same. It was a little difficult but I managed to get it soldered in good. So a reminder to folks - always check the dimensions before ordering!! Fired it up and it works very well.
One other question if anyone has time. Right above and below ZD1 and ZD2 are two smd's with the numbers 103 on them. I thought they were resistors or diodes. When I test them on the board, they read like diodes. About .6 one way, and open circuit with probes reversed. I removed the one near ZD1 to check it as it was in line with ZD1 and the blown mosfet. When it was off the board it reads an open circuit either way the probes are connected. I thought I had damaged it while removing it from the board, so I took another one off an old board and it did the same thing. When I replaced it on the board it tested about .6 again. What is this, and is it possible to test it off the board??
Thanks again to everyone who helped with this one.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
Thanks for the heads up. I have a spare, usually buy a couple of extra when the parts are inexpensive. I also have a couple of the small resistors that are inline with these parts. Sometimes I do more damage than good with the soldering axe.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
I looked up the 5.6V 0.3W zener diode at digikey and it looks like the right part.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...client_id=5042
I will get one ordered and let you know. Thanks again for the help and education. I am getting the hang of the chip quick and soldering these smaller devices.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
I don't know how to read that code. Someone else will have to help out.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
I had checked one in the past that showed 'good' with continuity, but bad under load, so if I am in doubt, I had been checking voltage coming in and out of the fuse when power is flowing. Good to know to about the 0.3 ohms rule.
I removed ZD1 and it tested the same as when it was in the board, about .22 both ways. It has a line or groove across it and then it has the letters BC. Is that a part number?
I believe BC is the 'smt package marking'. It corresponds to a 5.6V 0.3W zener diode.
PlainBillLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
Always do resistance tests with power OFF and unplugged!
A good fuse is 0.3 ohms or less. Some multimeters like mine will beep "good" if I use the continuity check feature. "good" is 25 ohms +/- 10 ohms.
So when I measured a picofuse and it was "good" with the continuity feature, but it was actually bad because it was 19 ohms.
In order to verify if ZD1 is bad or not, you need to test it out of circuit. In circuit may not give accurate readings because other components or board design may give false readings.
edit: If ZD1 is bad, it may have been the reason that caused the IC to go bad.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
A good fuse is 0.3 ohms or less. Some multimeters like mine will beep "good" if I use the continuity check feature. "good" is 25 ohms +/- 10 ohms.
So when I measured a picofuse and it was "good" with the continuity feature, but it was actually bad because it was 19 ohms.
With the dmm in diode mode, ZD1 reads .22, and reads the same with I swap the probes. ZD1 reads .72 with the red probe on the mosfet end, and open circuit with probes swapped. I think this means ZD1 is bad?
edit: If ZD1 is bad, it may have been the reason that caused the IC to go bad.Last edited by retiredcaps; 08-09-2010, 11:50 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
About the clicking noise. I checked and could not see any arcing. The noise sounds loudest over the raised circuit board, not the transformers, but it is difficult to be sure.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
Maybe try testing ZD1 and ZD2 next to the burnt mosfetLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
FH602 is right near that little board. Have you checked this fuse yet? Just checking.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
Sorry. In my previous post I mentioned pin 6 as the voltage supply for the OZ960, it's actually pin 5. I also didn't realize the board was soldered in place. Ouch!! If you decide to unsolder it again, using your DMM, maybe you can trace back to one of the soldered pins for your measurement. Or, maybe you can trace back from pin 5 to the nearest capacitor or resistor and solder a small wire at that point and route the other end of the wire off to the side where you can take your measurement.
As for the fds4935 chip, it consists of two p-channel mosfets. The chip above it should have 2 n-channel mosfets. These two chips work together with the OZ960 to generate the square wave for amplification in the transformer(s).
I believe the clicking sound you hear is the power supply trying to start up. The sound might coming from a transformer. Try this the next time you turn on the display: place a cardboard tube taken from a paper towel roll and place it over the transformer (large yellow one T601) while listening to the other end. Move to other areas if that wasn't the source of the click. Also, try looking at the power supply in a darkened room to see if there's any arcing during the power on process.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
The mosfet near the one I replaced seemed ok when i tested it, but I didn't remove it from the board... I will test it again when I get the board back off (seems like a foolish way to mount a board onto another board!) and test ZD1 & 2 also.
I have tested T602 & 3 and they showed ok with the ring tester.
The chip above the one I replaced has a different part number than the one I replaced. When I first looked at the board I thought they would have been the same, but after looking thru the magnifying glass I saw they were different. It is possible one or the other were replaced before?
I have no idea how to test the small board for proper voltage, since I have to desolder it from the main board to see the components. I guess if I had a power supply I could power it up that way, but without being connected to the inverter transformers I think it would shut down anyway?
No one has commented on the clicking noise. Any idea which component would click?Last edited by sceva; 08-05-2010, 06:04 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
Hello! Even with substitution of the fds4935a, there's always the chance that there still could some incompatibilty between the old and new chip. Ideally, you should have replaced both the burned out chip and the one above it. I've included a pdf file of the inverter controller, OZ960. If you look at the application circuit you can test to make sure it's getting the proper voltage at pin 6. Also note that the U1 and U2 config is a little different than yours, since each chip has a N and P-channel mosfet in it.Attached FilesLast edited by jetadm123; 08-05-2010, 02:51 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
Did you test the other non burnt out mosfet to see if it is shorted? Maybe try testing ZD1 and ZD2 next to the burnt mosfet that you replaced to make sure they are working?Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung 912T click then off
I replaced the FDS4935 and still get the same result - backlights flash on/off, and a click occurs at the same time... aaarrrgg.Leave a comment:
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