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My Syncmaster 225bw has performed well for more than a few years... happy happy. Recently the back light (fluorescent tube) I assume, is acting just like a a tired old ceiling tube or fixture with a bad lamp or ballast. After much flickering and struggling it comes on completely after 20 or 30 seconds but is about half bright. after another minute or so it finally reaches near full brightness and works fine until it is shut down again for maore than a half hour. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse.
Is there a source for a replacement lamp? Based on any oithers' experiences, is this likely to solve the issue if I were to merely replace the lamp?
BTW, I read the OPs original problem, and have not had any problems like the ones predominently described throughout here. I looked for a similar problem post such as mine but perhaps i missed it
Apreciation extended in advance for anyone taking pity on my computer monitoring soul
Post pictures of all your boards with a top down view (both sides). A sunny day by the window, macro mode on, and flash off make for very nice pictures.
If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
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I just replaced the caps on my monitor, and it worked perfectly. Thanks to everyone.
Here's a few tips for someone trying to do it:
Getting the old capacitors off the board: I used a solder wick. It was like $2 from Fry's, and it worked great. What I did was smash the wick between the solder joint and the soldering iron, and after holding it in place for a few seconds, it soaked up almost all of the solder.
The reason he's unsuccessful is because the two caps near the top of his page are backwards. It is important to pay attention. If you forgot to look when you took them off like I did, there are tiny "+" signs on the bottom of the board close to where the caps go. Or I believe the top of the board is dark where the negative lead goes (not positive on that though).
The reason he's unsuccessful is because the two caps near the top of his page are backwards.
I think the picture above is correct (caps installed correctly). It looks like the person used a marker to write "-" so he would remember which is negative. If you put in caps backwards, you will likely hear a pop immediately after power is applied.
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I think the picture above is correct (caps installed correctly). It looks like the person used a marker to write "-" so he would remember which is negative. If you put in caps backwards, you will likely hear a pop immediately after power is applied.
Are you sure those are installed correctly? I have the same board, and my negative was pointed in the other direction for those two capacitors. I see the marks, but I'm not sure they are correct (however, I will say that it's hard to believe he would mark them incorrectly.) The point still remains, the polarity of the capacitors is important.
In virtually every monitor I've seen the boards have been marked to indicate the negative lead of all capacitors. If in doubt, an almost foolproof method is to remember that the negative lead will go to ground. There are exceptions, (the caps on the primary side of the SMPS - including the100uF, 450 volt cap are a major one), but for the majority of the cases this is a quick check.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Post pictures of all your boards with a top down view (both sides). A sunny day by the window, macro mode on, and flash off make for very nice pictures.
Thanx so much for the leads on those. It should be fun trying to decide on which one to get. I'll be sure to at least look at those caps when I pop off the back... thanks again retiredcaps. Seems I have found another great forum with very helpful and friendly people
I have the same board, and my negative was pointed in the other direction for those two capacitors
Well, it looks like there are multiple versions of the board. I looked through this entire thread and see boards with negative going one way and boards going the other way.
I always take pictures of my boards/work BEFORE I tear things apart. I recently recapped some blown caps on my motherboard and realized that what I thought was one solid 8 pin connector as really 8 separate connectors. Good thing I took pictures so I could reattach the 8 connectors correctly.
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I just wanted to stop in and say thank you to everyone before me for posting such useful information and guidance. My Samsung 225BW decided it didn't like showing a picture for more than two seconds on Saturday morning. Google lead me here. In less time than it took me to disassemble the 225BW and gawk at the almost half dozen failed/failing caps I had a clear idea of what would be good for replacement parts.
Here I am, less than a week later, with a fully functional monitor. Thanks for everything guys! YOU ROCK!
Just replaced three bad caps in my 225BW and my monitor is now working like a charm!
I'm a total Nooobie to monitor repair and the directions were great, so hat's off to you guys!
My only suggestion for the next guy would be to find some instructions for getting the board out. I did a quick look through these 12 pages of posts and couldn't find any.
So here is how I did it; After I took off the three screws on the back of the pannel it took me a while to carfully release the plastic latches along the sides and the top of the case. I broke one one the top tabs so any advice you can find on the right way to release these would be good.
After that, you need to look very carefully at the connectors on the thin wires from the controls and the pannel to find the latch and disconnect them. Finally, a needle nose pliers is handy for removing the plastic shield snaps on the back of the board.
Solder wick worked fine to remove the solder from the existing caps after put a dab of new solder on the leads along with some light solder paste. The new caps go in real easy since you can bend the long leads down to hold them in place before you solder. After, just clip them off.
Just repaired my 225BW- Symptoms at above: quick flickerning blue LED, nothing more.
Changed all Caps- nothing better. Voltage output from the Switching was at 4,5 Volts- should be 13 Volts! So- I changed the SD439 (programabel Z-Diode)- now its running allrigt! So watch out for this little TO220-circuit!
Hi Guys !!! I am Arrtzz and I am new to this community as well as new to fixing monitors.
My Syncmaser 225wb went down, blue light on and black screen. So I am just trying to get some info how to go about that by reading all the posts. Seems like this is the best site fot that matter, I just need to learn the terminology. Thanks a lot! You guys are doing awsome job!!!!!!
I recently starting having trouble my 225BW. I turned it on one day it the image was a little fuzzy and not sharp. I tried auto adjusting the image but once I pressed the auto button I didnt see the typical popup, instead it was the outline of the box but the inside was garbled. In addition, the buttons on the front of the monitor are no longer working. Any ideas on whats wrong or how I can fix this?
Take it apart and look for possibly bad capacitors on the power and logic board.
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If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.
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Just ordered 6 caps from digikey. I hope you can teach old dogs new tricks as I've never attempted anything like this before. When I was in school in the 60's electronics like this were only a dream.
Had the same problem with my 225BW. Turn on, blue power light on, display came up for 1 sec and then disappeared. Turn power on/off several times, display would come up and stay up. Took apart found three swelling and leaking caps (C110, C111, C112). Ordered all new caps from Digikey (one day UPS shipping from Minnesota to Ontario, Canada!). Replaced caps, monitor works great. Too bad I had already bought an ASUS VW266H. Oh well, enjoying the dual displays.
(2) 565-1553-ND - 820UF 25V Elect KY RAD EKY-250ELL821MJ25S
(2) 565-1551-ND - 680UF 25V Elect KY RAD EKY-250ELL681MJ20S
(1) 565-1547-ND - 330UF 25V Elect KY RAD EKY-250ELL331MJC5S
(1) 565-2004-ND - 47UF 50V Elect LXZ RAD ELXZ500ELL470MFB5D
Thanks for all the great posts on this forum, hate to trash a monitor that only requires $3-4 in parts. Thanks DarkNite for posting the disassembly section of the service manual.
My first attempt at removing and replacing the 6 capacitors was a success. It just proves you can teach old dogs new tricks.
Thanks to all on this website for your input. $5 in parts, plus a soldering iron and accessories was a lot cheaper than buying a new monitor. Again, Thanks to all.
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