I'm sure now the MCU is bad.

Alternate heating with a small hot air nozzle and cooling of the IC makes the symptoms appear and disappear.
Since I have no firmware to load into a new chip, it looks like I lost the fight this time.
But I did come up with a clever idea - instead of freezer spray, I had the idea of putting a chunk of ice from the freezer in a zip-loc bag and using that instead. Works great, for large parts like a 128-Pin QFP...

Not very accurate for anything else though.
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