BLue ESR meter installation pre-testing

[Blackthorn]

I assembled the Blue ESR meter and started to do the initial checks. The manual states to "Do not install the integrated circuits until after performing the Initial Checks". After downloading the following link and studying the information and schematic, I found that to do the "initial checks" as stated in the Blue ESR manual both IC2 & IC3 have to be installed in order to get the - LED to light on the left hand display. This is clarified by reading the old manual (see the link) on page 7 under initial checks (and is made clear by looking at the schematic). However, the initial checks for the old meter on page 7 show a current and voltage test without the IC chips and then if they are good to install the chips and check if the - LED lights on the left hand display.



Anyway, I decided to compare the two schematics and they are quite similar. Since I don't want to fry anything I want to ensure that everything is good before installing the two IC chips. Back on page 7 (initial checks) it says to short out the switch and check to make sure I get 6 mA current from the battery. I only get 3.9mA and not 6 mA. Is the new design still supposed to get 6mA, or does it draw less (with the chips out)?

I understand things a bit better after reading the information in the old manual. I would just like to know if the 3.9mA I am getting is going to be a problem or not. Does the blue meter draw the same current or does it only need about 4 mA? Note that I am using a good meter that does not load the circuit.

I would appreciate any help I can get.

Thanks

[fpliuzzi]

Re: BLue ESR meter installation pre-testing

Hello, I have the original version of Bob Parker's ESR meter, but I just downloaded this manual for the Blue ESR meter...



This version of the manual states that during the initial checks (with IC2 and IC3 not installed yet) a current-draw measurement in the range of 3mA to 5mA is perfectly fine.

Regards,
Frank

[Blackthorn]

Re: BLue ESR meter installation pre-testing

Hey thanks! I really appreciate your help! I missed out on that manual. Glad I requested help with it.

Now I really need to get a good flux remover... Isopropyl Alcohol just doesn't cut it. I was thinking about using MG Chemicals 4140. I want the liquid product. I want something safe to clean with, and not damage the plastics or components. I hate sticky boards.

I will clean it up a bit before I get the IC's installed.

[fddizon]

Re: BLue ESR meter installation pre-testing

i use denatured alcohol

[Blackthorn]

Re: BLue ESR meter installation pre-testing

Ok, I finally had time to finish my meter. I used flux remover 4140 by MG Chemicals in Canada and Super Wash Electronics Cleaner 406B-425G. (NOTE: These chemicals are highly flammable and cannot be used near any spark or flame source. So I cleaned it outside.)The 4140 is a liquid cleaner that you submerge your board into. I used a hogs hair brush to clean the surface. When you are done you hold the board in a vertical position and spray the Super Wash across both sides of the board. It came out beautiful!

One thing that happened to me before I cleaned the board is my meter was not working. I always use liquid flux to help protect the board and help the solder flow. What happened is the flux ran down into the switch, so when I depressed the switch it stuck in the on position. I noticed that the battery had gotten really warm and drained the new 9v battery to below 8 volts. I tested the switch and it had opened. I replaced the switch, but this time I did not use any other flux than what is already in the solder. This time I had good results. I do not recommend using liquid flux when you solder the switch unless you do a better job with it than I did.

After I cleaned it good I put in IC2 & IC3 and proceeded to test the meter. I went ahead and ran the diagnostics and got the .8.8 result I was hoping for. I then calibrated it and now I have a working Blue ESR meter.

I tested some new capacitors that I have in stock and got zero Ohms! I tested three bad ones I pulled off a motherboard and got 1.5 to 3 Ohms!

I then tested the remaining capacitors on the board and also got zero Ohms! I thought it a bit strange that none of the resistors read higher than zero, so I used my multimeter (using the proper polarity of course) to do some Ohms testing. None of the Ohms results were zero, so it looks like I am on the right track. So I don't see any reason to replace the remaining capacitors. If someone has other advise I am open to it.

I am going to proceed and test the capacitors on the power supply, but I want to ensure they are all discharged before I do that. I was planning on using the 5 Watt 100 Ohm power resister to do this. Any help here would be great.

I am going to do some further reading on the many uses of the meter, but so far it seems to be a great time saver...

So am I doing anything wrong here so far...?