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Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

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    Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

    I have the same problem as many others have had with their Samsung Syncmaster 205bw. It started being persnickety when I would first turn on the computer. The screen would be black for 6 seconds then flash on for half a second then go black again. The power light would also flash in sync with screen. The monitor, after about 10 min of flashing, would come on. A little inconvenient but doable. Started getting worse over a period of 2 months and now won't come on at all and just continues to flash.

    I opened up the back and got the power supply out and looks like two Capxon 1000µf are a little puffy on the top. I want to replace all the caps on the board but am confused over, say Rubicon's MCZ, MBZ, etc. codes or Panasonic's FM, or FC codes. Which ones will be best for my monitor. If I wanted to buy these caps from Badcaps, can I list the caps info and have you or the forum make recommendations?

    2 1000µf 25V 10x20mm C636 "The bad ones"
    1 472uF 35V 10x16mm C634
    1 470µfF 25V10x16mm C636
    1 1uF 50V 5.25x11mm C632
    1 10uF 50V 5.25x11mm C636
    1 120uF 50V 18x42mm C636

    Thanks for the caps website. It's a great resource!

    #2
    Re: Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

    Here is a shot of the board.
    Attached Files

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

      Originally posted by Danger Mouse View Post
      I have the same problem as many others have had with their Samsung Syncmaster 205bw. It started being persnickety when I would first turn on the computer. The screen would be black for 6 seconds then flash on for half a second then go black again. The power light would also flash in sync with screen. The monitor, after about 10 min of flashing, would come on. A little inconvenient but doable. Started getting worse over a period of 2 months and now won't come on at all and just continues to flash.

      I opened up the back and got the power supply out and looks like two Capxon 1000µf are a little puffy on the top. I want to replace all the caps on the board but am confused over, say Rubicon's MCZ, MBZ, etc. codes or Panasonic's FM, or FC codes. Which ones will be best for my monitor. If I wanted to buy these caps from Badcaps, can I list the caps info and have you or the forum make recommendations?

      2 1000µf 25V 10x20mm C636 "The bad ones"
      1 472uF 35V 10x16mm C634
      1 470µfF 25V10x16mm C636
      1 1uF 50V 5.25x11mm C632
      1 10uF 50V 5.25x11mm C636
      1 120uF 50V 18x42mm C636

      Thanks for the caps website. It's a great resource!
      You have a number of problems on that list. Some of them are not important, one is serious. You have C636 listed 4 times, not a big deal as long as you get the replacements into the right spots. The last cap is flat out wrong!!! That is a 120uF, 450 volt cap. The results of putting a 50 volt cap in there would be 'interesting'.

      I'll let someone else match up to Topcat's stock, if possible. He is more oriented toward repairing motherboards. The numbers beginning with P is Digikey's stock number, the second number is Panasonic's part number.

      2 1000µf 25V P12379-ND EEU-FM1E102
      1 472uF 35V P12415-ND EEU-FM1V471
      1 470uF 25V P12388-ND EEU-FM1E471
      1 1uF 50V P10312-ND EEU-FC1H1R0
      1 10uF 50V P10316-ND EEU-FC1H100L
      1 120uF 450V This one presents a problem. Digikey doesn't stock it in 18 mm diameter. Also, it is not likely to have failed.

      PlainBill
      For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

      Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

        Here is the corrected list:

        Location Quantity Value Size C Number on side

        C261 and C263 (2) 1000µf 25V 10x20mm C636 "The bad ones"
        C301 (1) 470µf 35V 10x16mm C634
        C265 (1) 470µf 25V 10x16mm C636
        C232 (1) 1µf 50V 5.25x11mm C632
        C123 (1) 10µf 50V 5.25x11mm C636
        C114 (1) 120µf 450V 18x42mm C636

        The first C is the location on the PCB. The C636, C634, and C632 is on the side of the capacitor and I have no idea what it means. I like the way you understate the meaning of "interesting".

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

          Hey!! It worked!! I replaced all the caps on the board with Panasonic parts ordered from Digikey. My heart started to pound as I turned it on and then plugged it in. I held my breathe and waited for the expected !Poof!.... No Poof happened. As a mater of fact, it didn't do anything but work the way it is supposed to. Wow! I got my monitor back!

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

            Originally posted by Danger Mouse View Post
            Hey!! It worked!! I replaced all the caps on the board with Panasonic parts ordered from Digikey. My heart started to pound as I turned it on and then plugged it in. I held my breathe and waited for the expected !Poof!.... No Poof happened. As a mater of fact, it didn't do anything but work the way it is supposed to. Wow! I got my monitor back!
            Looks like you are going to have to change your name from 'Danger Mouse' to 'Mighty Mouse' (or 'Monitor Mouse)'. And congratulations!!

            PlainBill
            For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

            Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Flashing Samsung Syncmaster 205BW

              Wow - thanks man!!! This totally worked. I have never done this sort of thing but followed post here, found what I needed, ordered the parts, and fixed my monitor. Here I thought it was my new video board but I know better now.

              Thanks a ton to all for this thread.

              Comment

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