Samsung 226bw

[meatburger]

Hi there all,

I have a Deadish Samsung Syncmaster 226bw. The blue power light flickers when i turn it on and the screen remains blank. Sometimes if i'm lucky it turns on, sometimes it doesn't. It can often take a whole day to get going. I mentioned this problem to a guy at work and he suggested i could try replace the caps. I have no electronics knowledge or background but i just opened it to have a look. It appears a number of caps are bulging.

When i look at them, here is what i see (pics below)
C317 - Fine (820uf 25v, P729 Vent)
C318 - Bulging (820uf 25v, P729 Vent)

C105 Big Sideways one looks fine (105c , 7273h, CD206)

C111 -Bulging (820uf 25v, P729 Vent)
C112 -Bulging (820uf 25v, P729 Vent)
C113 -Bulging, smaller one (GL 105c, C7292)
C114 -Bulging (820uf 25v, P729 Vent)

I feel a little out of my league but if you guys think i should be fixable i might give it a try.

I found another thread on here that suggested these caps for the big and small ones. Should i go ahead and order something like this? Was thinking of leaving that big Bertha one as it looks ok?

C110 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C111 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C112 330uF 25v GL 105 °C C638 VENT 10mm D x 15mm H EEU-FM1E331

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung 226bw

I feel a little out of my league but if you guys think i should be fixable i might give it a try.

I found another thread on here that suggested these caps for the big and small ones. Should i go ahead and order something like this? Was thinking of leaving that big Bertha one as it looks ok?

C110 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C111 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C112 330uF 25v GL 105 °C C638 VENT 10mm D x 15mm H EEU-FM1E331

1) This is fixable. When the cap is bloated, its ESR (ohms) value is very high. When the cap warms up, its ESR value drops. This is why sometimes the monitor will work after being left on for "a while".

It looks like the original caps are Capxon. Capxon is easily one of the worst capacitor brands since they don't last very long. The P729 indicates it was probably made in 2007 week 29. Most members here recommend replacing Capxon on sight.

2) Replace ALL the electrolytic capacitors except the largest one which rarely, but not never, fails. This includes the one that look fine because capacitors die from age, heat, and shoddy build quality. Capacitors DO NOT have to be visibly bloated in order to bad. They can be out of tolerance uF (a 1000uF measures 20uF) and/or have high ESR (ohm). A multimeter will be insufficient to test for ESR. For that you need an ESR tester which costs between $50 and $300.

Most members here will recommend that you replace ALL capacitors with reputable brands from reputable sellers. Brands like Rubycon, Panasonic, and United Chemicon are suggested. A list of recommended caps can be found at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280

3) The part numbers above EEU-FM ... all indicate Panasonic FM low ESR series caps. These are good caps to use in a SMPS application and you can use them as replacements providing they fit height and diameter wise.

You can order Panasonic caps from digikey by following PlainBill's instructions at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...33&postcount=2

As a "shortcut" click "in stock" and type in "820uf 25v fm" into the digikey search field. This will quickly narrow down your selection versus the number of clicks in PlainBill's instructions.

Panasonic FR has slightly better specs than FM on some cap values so you may want to choose FR first, FM second, and FC third.

4) If you have never soldered or replaced caps, see

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=485

and

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

[meatburger]

Re: Samsung 226bw

Thank you for the informative reply, you are a gentleman and a scholar! Its a bit late here i just finished a uni assignment but tomorrow i will have a look into this