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Huckfinn
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Last Activity: 10-06-2014, 11:47 PM
Joined: 01-21-2009
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  • Re: SG - what does it stand for?

    Malmal's answer is funny, but not quite correct, electronically speaking. The component you have is a positive temperature coefficient resistor/thermistor unit, and these are used for current limiting tasks.

    Huck
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  • Re: Tenma 21-7950 Thoughts

    Since I serve as an electronics consultant, and since I have worked in electronics for quite a few years [since about 1964], I have worked with just about every kind of soldering/desoldering equipment available on planet earth. I can say with confidence that the advice given by Krankshaft about sticking with Hakko equipment [or a reasonable equivalent like Pace] is right on the money. As Krankshaft correctly stated, once you work with a superior unit like a Hakko, all of the many lesser units seem like mostly a waste of your time. It is not the fact that...
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  • Re: leakseaker

    Leakseeker testers work well for locating shorted components on a pc board when one does not have a strong suspicion of any one component or group of components being shorted. In that case, unsoldering large numbers of parts would be impractical. The Leakseeker can point to the offender rather quickly. This type of tester is more useful for locating bad semiconductor components such as ICs, transistors, diodes, etc... that happen to fail in a shorted mode. capacitors can and do also fail that way, but not very often [ in my experience].

    Huck
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  • Re: New capacitor esr value query

    sam67:

    A high quality nonpolar polymer or mica cap at .1 and 100v reads about 12 ohms esr value. You did not state whether or not your new .1 units are electrolytic or not. Most commonly, .1 units at 100V rating are not aluminum electrolytics, but some are. If your units are small round aluminum cylinders with plastic shrink labels, they are electrolytics. These can read about 25ohms esr when new. If they are discs or rectangular shaped blobs or boxes, they are very likely nonpolar nonelectrolyte types, using ceramic, mica or polymer...
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  • Re: Which inexpensive soldering iron (not station)

    Mathog:

    I have the answers to your dilemma of the soldering equipment not working as it should.To start with, the ZD-99 that you refer to is not suitable for soldering on motherboards, and it is definitely not suitable for desoldering work on motherboards. The much improved ZD-929C [shown above it on the same page] is still not suitable for motherboard desoldering/soldering use. The ZD-929C will work well with some lighter circuit boards that do not make extensive use of plated through holes or large ground planes...
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    Last edited by Huckfinn; 04-05-2010, 03:52 PM.

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  • Re: Cleaning Motherboards - ATTN SMOKERS!!

    I have successfully used 409, Windex and various citrus cleaners like De-Solv-It citrus solution. I always rinse with warm or hot water. Using pure alcohol to pull out water is a good idea for getting out water trapped under chips, etc. Follow with blow gun from shop air [ be careful to not damage delicate parts with the air nozzle ] and a finish drying with a good quality hair dryer speeds the process so you can power on and test right away without having to wait a day or two. I have done this hundreds of times to CPU boards, industrial...
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  • Re: Iron Coils amateur coating

    From the picture you posted, it appears that the choke coils you are thinking about replacing or improving are the circular torroidal variety. A torroid choke confines its magnetic field to the circular structure, by the very nature of a torroidal coil wound magnetic assembly. I don't think that you have to worry much about a torroidal choke coil radiating much EMI inside the CPU case. I very much doubt that you could actually measure any real performance improvement after having totally magnetically shielded those two torroids with something even...
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  • Re: Cleaning electrolyte from PC board

    For many years now I have successfully used hot water and different sizes of bristle brushes. Use compressed air to dry the board. When compressed air is not available, I drain and tap as much water off the board as possible, then finish drying it with a hair dryer set to a low or medium heat setting, and a high blower setting. This technique even works well for circuit boards that contain components that could be adversely affected by water [moisture] entrapment, provided that you are careful and use some caution. Motherboards are in that...
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  • Re: Bob Parker's Blue ESR Meter Assembly & Comments

    By the way, if any of you are currently getting a Bob Parker Blue ESR meter kit and also want to have the satisfaction of assembling it to the max level of "perfection", use the info Krankshaft gave you and also consider adding my mod. I also used sockets for the two IC units as well as the display and the blue discrete leds that make the decimal points, but I upgraded the socket from the standard side wipe Kovar metal style to machined contact gold plated style for reliability. The two brands that work well are the...
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  • Re: 25w 120v soldering iron?

    I very much agree with Krankshaft on the Hakko equipment. After having used [over the years] just about every soldering tool made for electronics, including the very same type Phaihn showed in his photos, I was amazed at how much BETTER the Hakko tools are. The very nice Hakko FX-951 that Krankshaft included photos of may seem a little expensive, but it really turns out to be a bargain once you use it a lot, since it is so much better than just about anything else one could use for soldering on PC boards and motherboards. And of course, if one does considerable...
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  • Re: SANWA multimeters?!

    MIG:

    I agree with Krankshaft and Brian C that Fluke makes some excellent stuff, however, I have found that Sanwa of Japan also makes some excellent test gear. As your web link points out once one goes to the genuine Sanwa site, there are knockoffs [ counterfits ] to watch out for. The real Sanwa units are excellent for the money.

    Huck
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  • Re: CAP- esr value?

    sOlid is right. A good 470 @ 200volts should read between .1 to .2 , but at .99 , that cap is on the way out.

    Huck
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  • Re: esr or cap tester

    sofTest:

    You are correct when You guessed that I do not own the EVB version of the Bob Parker tester. I also do not own the classic Dick Smith version. I do have the manual for all three.

    Here is hoping that Celica can obtain any one of the three versions, new or used. I am confident any one of the three would serve him well.

    Like You, sofTest, and also Celica, I myself found many interesting simple, and some complex ESR meter schematics on the Web. All of the ones I built a prototype of worked and were a little...
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  • Re: esr or cap tester

    sofTest:

    If we keep this going, You and I may be able to catch up to Willawake in number of posts, but maybe not. [Notice the nice little touch of capitalizing the word "You", thus giving importance and showing respect for my Norwegian brother-in-capacitance ].

    Huck
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  • Re: esr or cap tester

    sofTest:

    Your example of a Bang & Olufsen vs some cheap but passable set, say a Chinese made Konka [ yes, I wrote Konka, and not Konica ] is actually quite relevant to our little "what the heck is quality" kerfuffle. The funny thing is that neither you or I really know what the snot we are actually comparing in a TV vs ESR meter comparison for illustrative purposes, and that is because Americans do not have B & O TV sets here [for the most part], and you do not own a Blue Anatek unit. But, that little disclaimer being gotten...
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  • Re: esr or cap tester

    Not a problem sofTest. Here goes: [ It is neat when a Norwegian Badcaps.net member "throws down the gauntlet". I rather like Norway, it is a very beautiful country. I also like Chile as well ]

    The Blue unit is far superior to the EVB unit for a number of reasons as listed below. This listing is in no way meant to imply that the EVB unit does not have its merits. The EVB unit is a very good unit priced very reasonably. I am also stating again, as in my previous posts in other threads on this same subject, that these are my opinions....
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    Last edited by Huckfinn; 07-16-2009, 02:23 PM.

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  • Re: esr or cap tester

    Correction: the kit EVB is $64.73 and not $75.37 [I messed up the Euro-to-dollar conversion]. This gives a differential of $20.77 for the kit comparison. Is $21 dollars a negligible amount ? It depends on the individual. The kits do not come with batteries, but the Blue unit does include the test leads.

    Huck
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    Last edited by Huckfinn; 07-16-2009, 02:38 AM.

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  • Re: esr or cap tester

    Gee whizz, I have to go with Krankshaft on this one. sofTest indicates that the price differential between the EVB unit and the Anatek Blue unit is "more than $50 dollars US". This is not true. As of today, the respective web sites indicate $75.37 for the EVB kit including shipping; and $85.50 for the Anatek kit including shipping. The difference is $10.13, which is valid for a US purchase.
    In my opinion, the extra $10 dollars is negligible, and the Blue unit is a far superior unit [read Willawake's reviews of both units if you don't believe...
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  • Re: Dual Frequency ESR Meters

    The B&K Precision Model 886 has ESR test frequencies of 100Hz, 120Hz, 1KHz, 10KHz, and 100KHz. It costs $733.00 . It is really not necessary to test standard ESR caps at 120Hz. They can be tested just fine at 100KHz for the purposes of most troubleshooting.

    Huck
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  • Re: Regular multimeter to test for ESR?

    The link volto gives takes you to the E-bay site for buying the Hungarian szekimilu ESR meter. 1] The site shows customer feedback that complains about lack of an owners manual and schematic. 2] The E-bay site shows a video that demonstrates the meter in action, and it shows that to set zero, you have to do this using a small screwdriver to turn a set pot in the side of the meter. 3] The range is specified to be from .01 ohms to 19.99 ohms. 4] The current price for the meter is now $80.00, which includes shipping from Hungary.

    ...
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    Last edited by Huckfinn; 05-31-2009, 01:36 AM.

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