Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
Thanks to this forum my Syncmaster 245bw is working again... I got a bit busy and didn't have the chance to test this monitor until today and voila... it works as good as when it was new...
So thank you guys for keeping all this knowledge going... it sure helps us tinkerers, LOL...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
thanks jetadm123 for the reminder, I did now measured the pins 4 and 19 and also pins 19 and 23 of the F922L and they both open... no continuity... guess thats good
So can I plug it in and see if it works or should I assemble the whole monitor and then try it? Or should I measure some other points just to be sure...
thanks
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
Finally had the chance to go back to fixing this thing, I checked the .39R 5w (RM803) resistor and it was good, soldered everything back in including new .22R 1w (RM801) and the F922L (ICM801S) and now I am ready to test it.
One question, can I just plug the PS board and turn it on independently from the other boards just to see if the RM801 will blow again or do I have to have the main and inverter connected to the PS board
And let me tell you, I am a bit scared to try it because if it blows again I may just go back to being...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
I used option D, wiggled it until the legs broke off at the base of the chip and then desoldered them individually...
Brute force!!! LOL... but effective
I have experience with hot air desoldering (very tricky not to affect the surrounding components and/or ruin the board) some good, some bad...
Just didn't know what is the proper solder temperature for this particular board...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
Hello again, got the f9222L today and I am ready to replace it but... does anyone has a safe way to remove the old one without damaging the board... one leg at the time may not work too good on this one...
I have SAIKE SMD Rework Station with either hot air (temp + flow control) or soldering iron option (precision temp control)... was thinking using the hot air option on very low flow as not to disturb the adjacent components... anyone done it this way and can share some info would be appreciated... what temp solder is used on these boards?...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
One more question, should I order fusible resistor for the RM801 or is any .22ohm resistor considered fusible... markings are the same - Red Red Silver Gold...
thanks
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
Just ordered one on ebay, now I have to for it to get here...
Thank you budm, hope this will fix the problem... if not we'll take it to the next step...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
First 3 are trimmed off, correct?
Readings with ICM801 soldered to the board:
both 19-23 and 19-4 read very low resistance, I need to get better MM but its in the neighborhood of 0.1 to 0.3 ohms
same across RM803, somewhere around .2ohms
I have no 0 adjust on my cheap meter so it reads 1.2 ohms when I just touch the probes together... there is definitely some room for error +- few tents of ohm...
need to get better MM, will look for one today for sure
BTW CP803 that I...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
Thank you budm, I will test it but I need to know few things:
right now I have the board out of monitor
1. can I test it without plugging in main board and inverter board or do I have to plug them in?
2. assuming power on (should I remove the RM801so it will not spark anymore before I connect the power in, I unplugged it when it started popping so ther may be some residual shorts)?
3. I need to know which pins to test and what to expect?
So would ICM 801 be the first in line to be possible cause or most likely...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
Greeting everyone, seems I was a bit too optimistic while replacing damaged parts...
My monitor is 245BW, PS boars BN44-00173A is bad… replaced the 3 resistors and all caps including 82uF CP803 and the blown fusible resistor RM801 but when I plugged the monitor into outlet I heard a big pop and few small pops... RM801 .22ohm 1w resistor blew again.... what I need help with is - what other parts should I check to find the short thats causing the RM801 to blow...
I am not good at all reading the schematic diagrams......
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Re: Samsung 245B diode question
I just found the very same blown resistor RM801 with the big hole on the bottom side blown out... do you think it had something to do with the diode DM 804 being shot? and finally did you fix the 193A PS and is it working good with the replacement diode? Thanks
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW
First of all thank you all for posting and thank you operators of this site... marvelous job everyone... I have 3 of these 245BWs with 173A PS, one stopped working with same symptoms as OP described... I changed all the caps, except the big one, and the 3 resistors as described by some of you and no success.... so I took it apart again removed all the caps, except the big one, LOL and measured the values, they all checked fine on the plus side (slightly over posted values)... then I checked the big cahuna CP803 82uP 450V and it read low so I removed...
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Re: New Members - please post your introductions here
New member, graphic artist but into fixin things.... working on Samsung Syncmaster 245BW power supply... not guaranteed to succeed but I will definitely not fail... I may just find many ways how not to fix the problem but failure is not an option...
cheers
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