Re: Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN troubleshooting
I replaced two bad LEDs with diodes(1N4148). You could use a jumper in too. I basically grinded down(with my wife's nail tool) the existing LED until I could solder diodes on the terminals. I tested afterwards with my 90V battery pack and it lit up. For the 50 LED strips , I assume you would need something like 130-140V to test. LMK how it goes.
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Re: Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN troubleshooting
Yes, 90VDC is not going to light up the 50 LED strips. I was too lazy to get more batteries so I tested each one individually with my meter. One tip I got was, if any LED is burned out it is likely to be next to the connector. That was true in my case too. How did you lift the LCD off the TV panel? I used suction cups(meant to be mounted in the shower) that I borrowed from Home Depot.
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Re: Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN troubleshooting
Before you take it apart I advise you to get the detailed flash code as follows:
Turn TV on, now I assume you see the short and long flash on the inverted V.
Hold VOL down and INPUT buttons at the same time.
Then press POWER. Inverted V should go to steady on.
Release all buttons and press POWER until V symbols turns off(about 5 secs).
Press POWER again and wait until inverted V symbol starts flashing detailed diagnostic codes.
If you still get the 1 -1 code, you are in the same boat as me. The worst...
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Re: Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN troubleshooting
I appreciate your feedback. To make sure you understand what I am trying to do, my test setup is as follows.
The chassis(which includes the LED strips) with only the PSU installed, no main, no TCON, no LCD panel, no front panel with buttons to push.
My thought was to attempt validating the backlight(by jumping PS_ON and PNL_PWR) before I assemble everything else because it was a pain to take it apart(probably more pain putting back together). With this setup I see no LED driver voltage with or without the actual LED_DRV...
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Re: Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN troubleshooting
I did try many variations of holding various buttons down(as per forum posts) when plugging in but nothing happened. However, I am way beyond that know since the I've taken apart the LCD panel to fix the backlights(which I am reasonable certain are ok know). Right now, the inverter part is not outputting the expected voltage. Do you see any problem with my test setup?
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Re: Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN troubleshooting
Thanks for replying tom. Now, while testing with or without the LED strips connected I only see 25-28 mV on the outputs which leads me to doubt my previous reading of 27-25VDC on the outputs.
I confirmed that once PS_ON and PNL_POW is jumped to BU5V, I see "reasonable" values on the other pins:
BU5V - 4.98
PS_ON - 4.55
PNL_POW - 4.55
AC_DET - 3.2
S13.2V - 12.95
UR13.2V - 12.95
Perhaps the inverter part of this board is bad?
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Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN troubleshooting
First of all, I'd like to thank the contributors to this site. I've learned a lot from this forum.
I have a Sharp Aquos LC-60LE810UN with a blank screen, 1 -1 error code(Lamp error) flashing when plugging in the TV. Not possible to get to the service menu or resetting the error via CH- and VOL+ when plugging in the TV. I've tried to replace all three boards to no avail(I am a novice). From this forum I learned it is either a LCD panel or backlight problem. So I took the panel apart, tested the LED strips, found 2 open LEDs which I replaced with diodes(1N4148). The panel's LED strip configuration...
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Re: Sharp LC-40LE810UN question
Hi,
I have followed this thread with great interest. I have a LC-60LE810UN that won't start up, it only has Standby signal(BU5V) on the PSU. Inverted V flashes 1-1 on power up. PW_ON never goes high. The detailed flash code is also 1-1(Lamp error). As a side note, I get the 2-5 flash code if I disconnect the T-CON board(ribbon or power cable).
Before I give up on this set, I'd like to try two things:
1) Test the LED strips using a DC-DC 600W 10-60V to 12-80V Boost Converter(hopefully without taking the TV apart), but I am not...
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Re: Test LED TV strip
I am interested to know if you were able to test the LED strips with this boost converter without taking apart the TV. Where did you take the input voltage from?
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