Re: lct27ha36 noobie needs help
I agree with retiredcaps - I just rebuilt the power supply on mine and replaced the inverter board, although the problem was a little different, I had sound but no picture. There were MANY bad caps on the power supply, so I replaced tham all (about $30.00).
The thread is [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10686"]HERE[/URL]...Re: lct27ha36 noobie needs help
I agree with retiredcaps - I just rebuilt the power supply on mine and replaced the inverter board, although...
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Re: ILO LCT27HA36 TV, no picture but sound
**UPDATE** I recapped the PSU like PC Bonez suggested, it didn't work. That was around August, so I decided to put the TV on the back burner because I was leaving for vacation.
I left for Florida around August 20th. Everything was okay on the drive until the overdrive crapped out on my Windstar (right around Georgia); it gave me no warning signs. The trans was rebuilt in 2007, so I thought that it was sttill good. It shifted perfectly, no problems at all! I got off of the highway and drove 300 miles through...
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Re: ILO LCT27HA36 TV, no picture but sound
Yeah, I've been doing some research and I think that you're right, Akai and ILO are the same TVs with different plastics.
So, was the Akai having a similar problem, sound but no picture?
I ordered all the caps for the PSU from Digi-Key. I'll keep you all posted!...
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Re: ILO LCT27HA36 TV, no picture but sound
Okay, I attached photos of the mainboard and the RF board. The mainboard is new, it was replaced last year under warrantee. The HDMI-IN in the mainboard stopped working, so they replaced the whole board. I'm not seeing any more bad caps on these two boards.
I'm having a little difficulty going any deeper. The metal panel under the mainboard and RF board has all of the screws out but is not budging! There must be hidden screws somewhere but I'm having a humdinger of a time finding them!...
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Re: ILO LCT27HA36 TV, no picture but sound
No, the picture just suddenly went out, like the TV was shut off, but the green light was still on and the soiund was perfect.
Okay, I found bad caps in the power supply (is that what you mean by inverter <<<NOOB!). The part number on the power supply is MLT168A.
I've attached some pictures of the power supply. The last two have the bad caps. Should I stop here or keep on digging? Thanks all!...
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Re: ILO LCT27HA36 TV, no picture but sound
Thank you for your replies!
I'm gonna take the back cover off and see what I can see. Apart from bad caps, is there anything else specific that I should look for? Thanks!
Absolutely! I respect everyone here; please forgive my 'noobness'!
I pressed on the LCD screen gently like you said, there was nothing, no response.
I then shined a flashlight on the screen, I saw fleeting parts of the broadcast picture when I did this....Last edited by Roadkill203; 08-13-2010, 05:07 PM.
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Re: ILO LCT27HA36 TV, no picture but sound
Thanks for the reply, I shall take it apart and look at the caps, but I'm telling you this thing has perfect sound! Oh, and the green light stays on, the only problem is no video. When the TV went dark it actually looked like a lightbulb burning out, which got me thinking that there was a bulb that went bad.
Could the picture go out, the green light stay on, and the sound be perfect with bad caps? Like I said earlier I've never really tinkered with LCDs before - I fixed a Dell 1800FP LCD monitor (replaed the ICE2AS01 and...
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ILO LCT27HA36 TV, no picture but sound
Okay, I was watching this Wal Mart special when the screen just went blank but it still had sound. The TV is about five years old. I unplugged the video cables from both ends and then plugged them back in, no change. I then unplugged the TV, held the power button for five minutes, let the power button go, then plugged it back in to the wall. Same thing, sound but no video.
It's an LCD TV; I don't have much experiance toying with these things but I remember something about some kind of lamp burning out in LCD TVs and I'm wondering if that's what happened here...
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I'd like your opinions on this...
Okay, here's the back story:
I got a great deal on a socket A motherboard a few months ago. It's an Abit NF7-S2. I got it on Ebay for 99 cents and paid 8 Dollars for shipping! It came with the original box, an Athlon XP 2500 processor, 1 gig of ram (two 500s), and a Thermaltake heatsink - not bad for $8.99!
Of course when it finally did arrive I hooked up a power supply and a video card to test it out; it didn't start up. Upon further inspection I saw that it had some blown caps right by the processor (my eyes are old - I had to get the magnifying glass out!). I...Last edited by Roadkill203; 07-24-2010, 06:34 PM.
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SATA PCI Card
Looking to add a cheap SATA PCI card (4 port internal SATA, no external SATA) to my system; I saw a bunch on Newegg for anywhere between 30 to 50 dollars (US)... I'm not looking for a RAID controller, just looking to add a few SATA drives and a SATA optical drive. Any suggestions on the manufacturer I should go with? I'm leaning towards Rosewill [URL=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816132026]HERE[/URL] or Siig [URL=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816150022]HERE[/URL] ... Any input would be appreciated!Looking to add a cheap SATA PCI card (4 port internalLast edited by Roadkill203; 01-25-2010, 08:30 PM.
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Re: 1200uf vs. 1500uf
**UPDATE**
Recapped the board, everything seems to be working well, another success story - thanks Badcaps.Net!
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Re: 1200uf vs. 1500uf
Okay, just checked and Topcat doesn't list 1200uf 16v caps, so I'm using the 1500uf 16v caps that I have and ordering the 3300uf 6.3v caps from Topcat!
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Re: 1200uf vs. 1500uf
The current power supply is brand new, maybe used a total of a week. The computer has a massive amount of fans and the case has pretty decent airflow, so I don't think that the computer was overheated. I upgraded the power supply recently from a Coolmax 700W power supply. It's possible that the Coolmax did the damage to the caps. I've tested everthing else on my other socket A test-motherboard (processor, video card, memory), and everything works fine, so I'm hoping that the caps were the only damage.
I couldn't...
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Re: 1200uf vs. 1500uf
The 3300s that vented are all Rubycon MBZ, code T0345. The 1200s are all Rubycon ZL, code T0411. The 1500s that I already have are Rubycon MBZ, code T0343.Last edited by Roadkill203; 12-26-2009, 01:03 AM.
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1200uf vs. 1500uf
Hi everyone, here's my dillemma:
I have an Abit NF7-S V2.0 motherboard that I'm trying to resurrect after it vented some caps. My experiance with replacing caps is moderate; by far I'm not an expert, but I've done a few boards that are still running until this day.
The motherboard has five 3300uf 6.3v caps right by the processor (Socket A), three of which are bulged and vented, then it has four 1200uf 16v caps in a row by the back panel connectors. I want to replace all of the caps in these areas. I'm gonna order the 3300uf caps, but I do have a bunch of 1500uf...
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