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CDGraves
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Last Activity: 07-25-2023, 09:43 AM
Joined: 04-19-2013
Location: Latrobe, PA
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  • CDGraves
    replied to DELL E2310Hc
    Re: DELL E2310Hc

    I have repaired three Dell E2310Hc monitors. They would do a variety of things. Most commonly, when plugged in, the blue power light would come on and then all the controls would freeze. No image and no response to the button. In all cases, there were two bad caps on the main board. The board is 715G3329-1-2-HF. There are three 100uF 25V caps, only two are bad. C704 and C709. These caps are close to some power components. Presumably the caps damaged by heat. The caps look normal. How ever, the ESR was very elevated. Replacing those two caps fixed all the proble...
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 04-04-2017, 07:56 AM.

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  • Re: Samsung LN40A530P1F backlights go off

    "How about putting the pin names on each pin so we will know what they are?"
    In my first message, I posted a photo of the measurement point. Connector CNI08, Pin3.

    "What is the P/N of the power supply/inverter board combo? BN44-?????"
    BN44-00197. Why is that important in this case?

    "I do not know what "INT" and "PWM_EXT" mean."
    The point is: There is a choice for "Dimming Selection" value. Someone prior to me had set it wrong. That is...
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  • Re: Samsung LN40A530P1F backlights go off

    I believe I have found the answer to the back light level problem.
    First: Put the TV into "Service Mode". For the Samsung LN40A530P1F, that is done with the following remote control key sequence: Pwr off > Mute > 1 > 8 > 2 > Pwr on.
    The TV will power up with the service menu. Select "Option Byte".
    Under the "Option Byte" Menu, Select "Dimming Selection". There are two choices: "INT" and "PWM_EXT". Use the sideways arrows to select "PWM_EXT"....
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  • Re: samsung LN40A530P1FXZA Solarized distorted pic

    I had the same solarization problem with a Samsung LN40A530P1F.
    I got a new T-con board from a Chinese seller on ebay. Part number V400H1-C03. $44 including shipping.
    That fixed the problem.
    If there is abnormal color assignment with the new T-con. You can fix it in service mode. In the "Option Byte" menu, the "type" should be set to 37LC.
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 10-03-2015, 01:46 PM.

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  • Re: Samsung LN40A530P1FXZA LCD Solarization fix - help requested

    About the Samsung LN40A530P1FXZA (LN40A530P1F) solarization issue.
    The T-con board for this TV apparently has a high failure rate.
    I had the same solarizaion problem. I got a T-con board from an eBay seller located in China. $44 with shipping. The board is V400H1-C03.
    The new T-con did fix the problem.
    However, when the new T-con was installed, the colors were totally crazy. To fix the color assignment problem, you have to go into service mode. With this Samsung model, start with the TV...
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  • Samsung LN40A530P1F backlights go off

    I have a very strange problem with a Samsung LN40A530P1F (LN40A530P1FXZA).
    The problem: In the settings, the back light level can be adjusted from 0 to 10. 10 is the highest. As expected, the backlights get dimmer as the number is adjusted down. When going down from 5 to 4, the backlights go off. The lights stay off even when the backlight level is adjusted back up. They stay off until the power is cycled.
    Also, when "Mode" is changed from "dynamic" to "standard", the backlights goes out.
    There is a signal from the main board to the power supply/inverter...
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 10-02-2015, 12:32 PM.

  • Re: Polaroid FLM-3701 no power/ standy light

    About bad caps on the Polaroid FLM-3701:
    The nine big output caps E8 thru E17 go bad and they will be obviously swollen. E8 - E13 are 680uF 35v and E15 - E17 are 680uF 25V.
    However, there are three small 22uF 50V caps that also go bad. They look normal. They do not swell. They are E7, E8, and E22. Be sure to check those with an ESR meter....
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  • Re: Poloroid FLM-3701 Model number 667-L37K5-20A (KAS20) power supply board

    I had the same experience with a Polaroid FLM-3701. I took one from the local e-cycle place to play with. It was totally dead. All of the big output caps were swollen. There were three 680uF 25V caps and six 680uF 35V caps. E8 thru E17. I replaced them all and the monitor came to life. But it was intermittent. Sometime it would start and sometime not. I checked the other caps with an ESR meter. There are three 22uF 50V caps on the board. E6, E7 and E22. They all looked good, but tested very bad. I replaced...
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  • Magicjack power adapter failure

    I use magicjack plus. It gives me land line phone service for a small fraction of what Comcast charges. It has been a good service so far.
    For those not familiar. The magicjack plus is powered thru a USB port (5 volts). Magicjack can be powered directly from your computer, but that means magicjack will not work when the computer is not on. It also comes with a power adapter module that converts AC to a USB 5 volts. With this adapter, the magicjack can be powered from the wall AC and can run independent of your computer. If you power it with the AC adapter, you will need to connect the magicjack...
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  • Re: Westinghouse TX-47F430S

    I bought one of these from a frustrated owner who had a problem with it freezing up.
    After researching the Westinghouse TX-47F430S online I realized it has a lot of problems with hardware and firmware.
    The mainboard has identifiers W421TA FX69 MB and 48.70E01.01A stamped on it. It is used in both the TX-47F430S and the TX-42F430S. It is made in China, so of course it has capacitor problems. All the caps look normal. There is no swelling or leaking.
    C51 seems to be a real problem cap. This is a 470uF 16V located near the U37 sockets...
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  • Re: HP/Compaq dc5100 motherboard recapping

    I have repaired many of the HP dc5100 motherboards. The worst machines are the ones that are clogged with dust and no not ventilate well.
    The most troublesome capacitors I have seen on these motherboards are the 1000UF 6.3 Volt. Especially C469. When that cap goes bad, the fan goes to high speed. As it deteriorates further, the machine will stop booting. I have seen lots of the 220UF 16 V and the 470UF 6.3V go bad as well, but those smaller cap do not appear to be critical. I have had motherboards with 7 or 8 of those caps swollen,...
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 04-21-2013, 02:08 PM.

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  • Re: Old Dell 2001FP Ribbon Cable

    I believe the adhesive used is called Anisotropic Conductive Media (ACP). It is made by 3M. It is a glue with tiny metal balls in it. It makes an electrical connection in the Z-axis when the ribbon is pressed on to the board but does not conduct between the connectors in the X and Y axis. I have a similar problem with a ribbon cable that became unglued to the LCD glass in a Sanyo DP42848 TV. I have spent many hours online trying to acquire some of the ACP. It comes in a big roll and it seems you have to be a big company and buy many hundreds or thousands...
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 04-20-2013, 09:54 AM.

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  • Re: Sanyo DP42848 sound but no picture

    I had a bad Sanyo DP42848. Picture on for 2 seconds and then black.
    I wasted my time and money trying inverters. No fix.
    I discovered it was bad backlights. Reading various forums, this seems to be a very common problem with this TV.
    I disconnected the 2 ribbon cables from the T connector board to the control boards that ran the glass panel and removed the boards and glass panel. I left everything else intact. That way I could turn on the TV and observe the backlights.
    I had 3 bad backlights. The originals backlights...
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 04-19-2013, 05:12 PM.

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  • Re: Free Parts For Viewsonic VP211b

    The VP211b is notorious for blown fuses on the inverter board. There are two fuses labelled F1 and F2. Check both with an Ohmmeter.
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 04-19-2013, 01:18 PM.

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  • Re: Problem with Viewsonic VP211b

    Hello:
    I have repaired 3 of the Viewsonic VP211b monitors.
    I all three cases the problem was a blown fuse on the inverter board.
    The Inverter Board should have DAC-18B014 stamped on the back.
    On the inverter there are two tiny surfaced mounted fuses, labeled F1 and F2. They are on either side of the power cable CN1. Either one can be blown. Test them both with am Ohmmeter.
    These fuses are 1.5 mm long, 1.0 mm wide and 0.5 mm high (Case Style 1206). They have the letters FN printed on them. The N indicates 2 Amps and...
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    Last edited by CDGraves; 04-19-2013, 12:57 PM.

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