I recently got a free PC from Craigslist to refurb and sell, inside was shredded paper and rat droppings from what seemed like a rat's nest. I blasted away at it with an air hose, then doused it with Lysol a few times and then with Febreeze and let it sit outside for a few days. By the time I sold it, it only had a faint smell of Febreeze.
Got it. I was looking for some kind of release like the other two connectors. Guess I'll get another main board since it looks like there isn't much serviceable on this board and the regulators aren't shorting. Found one on Ebay for $10.
Is there a trick to removing the speaker/button-board ribbon cable from the main board. The two LCD panel cables were easy enough, but can't see how to disconnect other cable.
Just powered it up with the two LCD panel cables disconnected, was unable to disconnect cable from speaker/button board. Fuse popped again. Do I have a bad main board?...
Just replaced the F102 fuse, with power supply board not connected to the main board I get 5v at the 5v pin on the main board connector, so it seems to be the main board that's blowing the fuse.
Are there any other parts on the main board that can be tested with power off?
found a datasheet for the AMC1117 regulator, the pin I was measuring was pin 1 which is ground, pin 2 and 4 are output and neither regulator is short at these pins...
on both U4 and U6, both the leftmost (#2 ?) of the 3 pins are short to ground (using the heads of the mounting screws), could both regulators have gone bad?
both MOSFETs: pins 1 to 2 measures 29 M Ohm, 1 to 3 is 7 M Ohm, 2 to 3 is 35 M Ohm, 3 to 4 and 3 to 5 is 30 M Ohm, everything else is open (except for 5,6,7,8)
Installed new fuse, tested before applying power, tested dead short. After applying power fuse tests at 210 ohms. Still no green light. What could have caused the new fuse to fail?
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