Re: Looking for Apple Macbook Pro pdf schematics and boardview
I don't even remember anymore. lol....
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Re: Weird smeary failure mode with Westinghouse LCD
Hey All,
I didn't forget. I went out and measured voltages, and everything seemed normal. Then a day or so later I went back out to give one last try and put pressure on the edges of the panel to see if maybe it was a loose bond. When I moved the TV out to be able to do the work, I turned it on and it came right up.
So, either sitting face down for weeks, or me just moving it caused the connection to come good.
I've told the client to be aware it'll likely fail again. But it does seem like...
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Re: Weird smeary failure mode with Westinghouse LCD
Display is totally blank when disconnecting either "half" of the tcon->tab breakout boards (there's a single cable between FRC to t-con, then two cables out of t-con to long tab PCBs to each half of the panel). I too thought it was odd whole display is dead with half disconnected, but figured maybe the t-con was shutting down due to sensing a fault.
I've checked the primary voltages off the powersupply and traced them to the FRC board (12V, 5V, stb, etc).
I haven't broken...
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Re: Weird smeary failure mode with Westinghouse LCD
btw. Unplugging (either) half the connection from the t-con board to the panel results in no video at all. No idea if that's normal behavior... seemed odd to me. But then, I also don't see a horizontal drive connection at all... just vertical connections.
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Weird smeary failure mode with Westinghouse LCD
Hi All,
Have a weird failure mode that I would love some insight on. I figure it's gotta be the FRC or T-Con board, but I'm at a loss of how to actually fix without just randomly buying and replacing one of the two.
Here's a video of the issue. I've checked voltages, done visual inspections, reseated connections, tightened screws (incase of poor ground), tapped around on boards, connections, BGAs, etc.
Model is a Westinghouse WD55UB4530.
Any insight/assistance would be great. For reference, owner was just using the TV normally and...
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Re: MSI B150M PC Mate, a shot in the dark?
You ever figure this out? Got a board in this exact same situation... CPU tests good (alternate CPU even). Ram. PSU. GPU. all good... can't get board to post. Even found instructions for doing USB recovery, no luck (USB never powers up)...
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Re: Vizio E291-A1
=)
I'll note I bought the kit over ebay from SJ because it had free shipping. The amazon store from SJ was more, and directly from SJ had shipping. So, make sure to check. =)
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Re: Vizio E291-A1
So, hopefully SJ won't get mad at me, but the kit came with 4 ICs. The EEPROM (U409), and Buck converter (U704), and two mosfets (Q702 and Q706). Only thing I noticed was the thermal pad on the back of U704 wasn't soldered very well when I removed it. I made sure it soldered quite well when replacing it. Note, you'll probably want a heat gun/rework hot air station to remove that chip. You may be able to heat enough from the back of the PCB with an iron to remove it, but I've never had good luck with that.
Attached is the image of which ones get...
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Re: Vizio E291-A1
Got the repair kit from SJ, and it worked perfectly!
Thanks All!
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Re: Vizio E291-A1
so, another question before the repair kit: what causes the failure? bad parts, bad power supply? some hardware design fault on Vizio's part?
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Re: Vizio E291-A1
So "new" board I got was also bad? Any chance it's something else? I'm happy to buy parts to replace, just want to make sure I'm not wasting more time. Also before I send note to ebay seller about replacement board.
Thanks!
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Re: Vizio E291-A1
Okay, here we go:
Off, from the dim pin being pin 1.
0v
0v
0v
0v
0v
0v
0v
0v
0v
0v
5.2v
5.2v
On:
0v (50mv)
0v (80mv)
12.5v
12.5v
0v
0v
0v
25v
25v
4.5v
5v
5v
Disconnecting backlight makes no difference. Also tried pulling the pins for the dim and on/off and that made no diff. Have not yet tried to force them on with a 1k resistor between the 5v standby and the on and dim...
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Re: Vizio E291-A1
hmm... managed to get a replacement main board to test with, and shows the same symptoms.
So either it's the power supply (not sure how, unless one of the dim/on-off rails is shorted), or I have a blown LED backlight.
Any suggestions how to test?
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