I did - Used the rest of the tube here. Reading the replys now about making sure the insulating backing was replaced on the diode. I wonder if this is all that's stopping the metal rear of the monitor from becoming live.
I'm trying to look up the physical packaging of the diode I bought to see if the metal back and screw in are infact live voltage. I guess as the thermal paste heats up and the monitor moves I might find out if there is a short!...
I could 'just' catch the nut with some bent long nose pliers. And a screwdriver on an angle from the other side. Then I used a pair of side cutters to pull the diode while keeping the solder on the reverse wet.
When replacing I did;t manage to slip the little insulating thermal pad back behind the diode, Instead I used some good quality CPU heat sink paste - This had the added benifit of sticking the diode inplace while I soldered it in.
Got the nut and bolt back in with some locking bent end locking...
Thanks to everyone in the thread! I've just repaired my monitor tonight.
I managed to replace D22 without removing the heatsinks and the other diodes. I removed the two screws from the top of the heatsink (seperating the two parts) this meant I could flex some room to unbolt D22 and pull it out, heatsink inplace.
Very happy I fixed this monitor - An expensive purchase when new and something I could'nt have afforded to replace in my current circumstances.
Thanks again to everyone who posted such great instructions...
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